civic won't start

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jdmcivic007

New Member
what's good fellas, i gotta quick question. Just looking for someone to answer it. Today my car ran fine.. Just about a few hours ago, my car shuts off.. i left my friends house drove in first shifted to second then i dunno what happened.. the car sounded like it was gonna stall out then these weird noises came from the motor or i dunno what the hell..then the car shuts off.. i pull the car over.. thought it was the battery..attach the jump box to it.. the car wont start..can it be the starter.. the engine wouldn't even crank over seemed like it was locked or something.. tried to jump the car with jumper cables.. nothing.. the car still didn't want to crank over.. took the valve cover off.. checked the belt.. still intact..timing is correct..spark is there.. fuel is there..seems like the engine locked..took out the 19mm jack wrench from the trunk and tried to turn the crank.. it turned so i tried to start the car.. it sounded like it wanted to start.. then it froze again.. like something was blocking it from cranking over:eek:
 
well, if it's a stick shift you could always pop start it to see if it's a bad starter

but if it died mid-drive, it sounds like you might've blown something important :mellow:
 
Definetly blown motor, sounds like a spun bearing. They sometimes die real quite, when motors blow up they are not always dramatic.
 
If it cranked again I would say the alternator might have kicked the bucket. If the alt kicked while you were driving, the battery's juice kept the ignition firing till it didn't have enough left to power the accesseries,ECU,etc. and shut down. You jumped it and it recoverd enough juice to crank the car and send some power to the ignition but not enough to keep it running. (reason why it sounded like it wanted to start)
EASY alternator test;
Fully charge your battery/buy a new one and see if the car fires and runs, if it does shut it off to avoid ruining your old/new battery. I'm pretty sure you can point the finger at the ALT. if it does start and run.
ADVANCED test;
yank the ALT off the car. Hook a voltmeter to the hot and neg (ground to the housing) and spin the pulley with your hand. You should get atleast a blip on the meter. If you don't, crack that bad boy open and examine/test everything you can. I would check the rectifier (diodes) first for continuity, then move on to regulator,stator,brushes,rotor assemble, yadda yadda.
If it doesn't start or run, I would imagine it has something to do with the ECU or some kind of timing issue IF it did in fact crank over again after it died.
i think more then likely it was the ALT though.
 
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