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Clicking noise

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by 97SIRTN, Feb 10, 2005.

  1. 97SIRTN

    97SIRTN Member

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    Just finished SirII into my EJ8, went to start it and all I get is this loud clicking noise from under the dash. Tracked it down to the main relay. Unplug the main relay, turn key, no noise. The second the connector touches the relay it starts making the clicking noise. btw my car won't start either. Does the clicking noise mean the relay is bad?
     
  2. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    i am having the exact same problem..i swapped a b16 sir2 into my ek and the same thing is happeneing to my car when i turn it to the ON position..does it sound like a pulsating sound and the relay vibrates alittle non stop? if so and you find out what your problem is post it up cuzz i need help wit mine too...
     
  3. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    Hit up a junkyard and get another one, or drop the cash for a new known good one. If your problem still presist, post it up.
     
  4. seephor

    seephor Member

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    The problem is from not having your tranny grounded. There's 2 grounds you need hooked up. A head ground and a tranny ground. Should solve your problem. tranny ground hooks up to one of the brackets on top of the tranny next to the bracket you hooked the cherry pick to. Make sure to use a good 8awg wire since it also provides ground for the starter which draws mucho current.
     
  5. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    smart man right there! ;)
     
  6. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    im just wondering but have this happened to you b4? how postive are you that grounding the tranny will stop the pulsating from the main relay?
     
  7. seephor

    seephor Member

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    because I also though it was the PGM-FI relay but took it out and tested it according to the helms and it appeared to be ok. I got that same clicking noise and flashing brake, oil light when I put the ignition on the ON position. After trying to manually turn the starter with a direct connection from the battery it hit me when it didn't turn over that it was a ground problem. I then looked to see how the starter was grounded and found out it was grounded through the tranny so I grounded the tranny and everything started working.
     
  8. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    the clicking noise, did it sound like somethin was tryin to pump but there wasnt anything there? like a vibrating, pulsating sound?? is there a certain spot on the tranny that i need to ground or can i just ground it to any bolt on the tranny?
     
  9. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    [really anywhere will work, but the place it mounts is like he said on the tranny mount, but it dont matter as long as it is bolted to something metal that is metallically connected to the tranny, via a bolt or mount etc. id just get a thick wire like he said and ground out the tranny there should be a threaded hold on your sub frame pretty much above the front tranny mount! look for holes, youll see it :)
     
  10. seephor

    seephor Member

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    rather than wasting your time asking questions on whether of not the tranny has a ground. It takes 5 minutes to temporarily ground the tranny and see if it solves your problem. I'm 99% sure that's your problem and yes the tranny is supposed to have a ground wire hooked up according to the helms.
     
  11. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    im sorry i keep asking questions but i dont have my car to actually test it out to see if it works because i am in Phoenix AZ and my car is back in Cali because im going to skool in AZ and i did my swap a month ago hopein to get it finished so i can leave wit it but that main relay was giving me problems and i couldnt start it so i had to drive a diff. car back to AZ....im just tryin to get more info so when i go back for the weekend or somethin i can see if it works or not and stop having to come online and ask this and that
     
  12. 97SIRTN

    97SIRTN Member

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    The main relay wasn't the problem. Put in a new one and the same thing happened. I was told to check my grounds. The ground next to the ECT was loose. I tightened it, but still got no engine start. Then I heard something I had not read here despite hours of searching(here and elsewhere). OBD1 dizzy's have the crank sensor(?) in the distributor, where as my OBD2 car has one on the crank. Everyone said get a dizzy that matches your OBD, so I did. Nobody mentioned I had to get a new oil pump with the sensor in it. With out the sensor the engine will never crank. I either have to get an OBD1 dizzy w/jumper to OBD2, or get a new oil pump and install it. Then i can plug up the sensor there. I picked getting an OBD1 dizzy. Will let you know how it works out.
     
  13. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    i was told alittle too late about the dizzy problem..i had a obd1 dizzy cuzz i thought it was suppose to get the OBD to match my motor was i need the OBD to match my car so i bought a OBD2 Gsr dizzy...my engine cranks but doesnt turn over....i dont knoe what it is but im pretty sure somethin is wrong wit my relay bcuzz i noe its shouldnt be sounding like that...i am also postive that it isnt priming the system...
     
  14. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    your car cranks but wont turn over?? i think you got a bit mixed up homie, so does the engine move with the key in start?? 3 things that are simple to check and will tell you a lot, all that you will need is a test light. (5$ at an auto store) .

    now im telling you this assuming you dont have a fuel pressure guage and crap. turn the key to on position. this should prime your fuel system.. take a 17 mm wrench use the closed end of it, and crack the fuel rail nut, just crack it, you should see fuel squirt out, ok so you know you got pressure, take a spark plug, ground it to the cylinder head, crank the engine... you should see spark. if not, start searching into that. next with the test light, unplug injector #1 touch one end of the test light to a terminal ON THE CONNECTOR and the other to 2nd terminal on the connector, get someone to crank the engine, you should see the light flash with about a 1second pause in between pulses. ifyou dont get this, your injectors arent firing. you can also see if the injectors have power with the key in the on position, just ground one end of the test light to the valve cover and you should have 12v power sitting at one end of the connector! start there...


    did you change your injectors to the same obd as your computer???
     
  15. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    i was told that i can use my injectors from the d16 which is OBD2...my ecu is a obd1 p28..i got a brand new dizzy (OBD2),wires, and spark plugs...i dont think it has anything to do wit my electrical but my fuel system...i took off the fuel link from the fuel filter and turned the key to ON, nothiing happened no fuel comming out except my relay is pulsating...i used a jumpe wire and jumped my fuel pump is YES i got fuel comming out of the fuel filter so now i i know its not my pump..i traced it and it went to my fuel pump relay which was where my main relay is (not sure if they are the same or not) located because it was in the helms manual...took off the jumper wire and turned the key to ON again and touched the relay and it was vibrating...unplugged my fuel pump fuse and it stopped vibrating when i turned the key to ON....traced all the wires from the relay and a few leads to the ecu, 1 leads to the fuel pump and the other leads to the u/h fues box and u/d fues box..checked all fuses and nothing was blown...check wires going to ecu, nothing was cutt...ill try what you said..thanks.

    my set up:

    98 civic hatch cx (using stock d16y7 hanress)
    b16 sir2 with cable tranny (did cable to hydro alreadt)
    OBD2 Gsr dizzy
    New plug wires, and spark plugs
    P28
    Obd2-Obd1 jumper harness
     
  16. 97SIRTN

    97SIRTN Member

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    I HAD the exact same problem till today! :D
    Here is your problem:
    Your OBD2 Civic has a crank sensor that tells your comp. when(?) Top Dead Center is so your engine can fire.
    Your OBD1 engine had that same sensor in the dizzy.
    By switching to the OBD2 dizzy, your comp. no longer can read TDC :blink:
    That is why you don't fire. Period.
    Here is your solution!
    1. Go buy a 95 GSR OBD1 dizzy(I know, it sucks), cap, and rotor button
    2. Make an OBD1->OBD2 dizzy jumper
    3. Install dizzy and plug up
    Want to know wtf an OBD1->OBD2 dizzy jumper is. I will postpics to let you know, give me a few minutes
     
  17. 97SIRTN

    97SIRTN Member

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    Or not. I haven't been cleared to post pics yet! <_<
    Here's what you do:
    1. Cut the OBD2 [1 big plug] connector from your d16(or the GSR) DIZZY. I cut mine right where the wires met the dizzy. DO NOT CUT YOUR STOCK HARNESS
    2. Cut the OBD1 [1 med 1 little]connectors from the engine harness that came with your engine, or goto a junkyard and cut it off one there.
    3. The connector wires connect as so:
    OBD2 Plug wires that connect to OBD1 plug wires
    solid white------------------------------------------solid white
    orange(peach to me)------------------------------orange
    yellow/green stripe---------------------------------yellow/green stripe
    DARK blue-------------------------------------------DARK blue
    black/yellow stripe----------------------------------black/yellow stripe(bigger wire)
    white/blue stripe------------------------------------white/blue stripe
    orange/blue stripe----------------------------------orange/blue stripe
    aqua blue/green stripe-----------------------------light blue/green stripe
    aqua blue/yellow stripe----------------------------light blue/yellow
    I used double crimps to connect them for now, but soldering them would be best.
    4. Wrap in electral tape to your hearts desire to sheild from moisture.
    Now, one end should plug into your OBD1 dizzy and the other should plug up to your stock wire harness.
    I did this today, and finally after a month of work......the civ prowls the streets again! :worthy: I will post pics as soon as THEY let me....
     
  18. DelSlo

    DelSlo Senior Member

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    whoa, i think you are a bit off with who told you to use what, if you are running an obd 2 dizzy and a obd 1 computer, that aint right. like he said above, the dizzy on obd 1has a sensor for crank position inside, an obd 2 dizzy doesnt because obd2 motors have a crank sensor down at the crank and use a seperateplug, also, if you are runing at p28 obd 1 ecu im 99% sure you gotta use obd 1 injectors. thats what i was advised and thats what i did and well, my b16 is runnin mint.

    anyways, so you jumped the relay and the fuel pump ran? did you try a new relay yet? also if a new relay wont fix it, like seephor says, check the wiring diagram for grounds, cause that sounds likea bad / insufficient ground. but id start with a relay.

    the other issues i stated above will probably give more problems once you start this. youve mixed and matched alot of obd stuff, so we'll see what happens

    a thought for next time, if your car is obd 2 and the engine is obd 1, its best to convert to obd 1 i.e easier to play with! less complications.
     
  19. seephor

    seephor Member

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    the CKF (crankshaft fluctuation) sensor that mounts to the oil pump won't stop the car from starting as it started for me when i had it unplugged. It still sounds like a ground problem to me and like you, I didn't get fuel either when i had the fuel line off the fuel filter while i was switching the key to the ON position. A good way to see if it's your ground. All you need is 1 (one) 3 feet length wire. There is a one wire connector that plugs into your starter and covered with a rubber grommet. It's a pull type plug so just pull it out and you will see a male terminal showing. Now take that one 3 feet length wire and hook one end to the positive terminal of the battery now take the other end and touch it to the male terminal on the starter. If the motor doesn't crank then either of 2 things. bad starter OR more than likely no ground hooked up. It literally took me 5 minutes to do.
     
  20. qtmac_mien

    qtmac_mien Senior Member

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    while i was doing my swap i posted alot of questions on here and everyone told me to get a OBD2 dizzy because if i use a OBD1 dizzy i would have to convert EVERTYHING in my car to OBD1 like the inside and outside to OBD1 and i didnt want to bother with that so i went out and bought a brand new dizzy for like $280 or somethin and traded my OBD1 dizy in for that....if i change my injectors to OBD1, would i need to change the plugs that plugs to the injectors or can i just use the OBD2 plugs???...about the relay, i was going to go get one at the junkyard the same day i had to leave to AZ but it was too late and i couldnt get it in time so i had to leave and never got a chance to get the relay to test it out...and the starter, i took it out of my cousins crx that has a b16 in it and it was already running so i know for sure its not the starter....im guessing its the ground but im tryin to find one of my friends at home to test it out for me becausei cant leave skool right now because im on Probation for missin 6 weeks of skool altogether wit the first 3 weeks i took off.
     
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