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Clueless on turbo's

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by abdelsol, Jun 27, 2005.

  1. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    Okay the build is done short a few odds and ends.

    Spec's:
    B18C1
    Block has ported oil galleries.
    ITR lost motion devices.
    Itr Ported oil pump.
    Golden Eagle Sleeves
    9.75:1 Roller wave Pistons
    Stock Cam
    Carbon Fiber intake manifold.
    .5 oversized Black Nitrided Stainless Steel Valves.
    Endyn Springs.
    Ported and Polished head.
    Fluid damp'r harmonic balancer.
    2 breather tanks
    Bosch Fuel Pump
    Aem FPR.
    Golden eagle Fuel Rail
    STR cam Gears.

    Not Purchased:
    Injectors.
    Clutch masters dual disk clutch
    Electronics, engine management.
    Turbo and releated hardware.
    Hytech exhaust manifold.

    Okay The base is rock solid and the plan is for 30psi of boost. This should net some very nice Et's. I am leaning to autronics or hondata for management. But have no clue as to what turbo to install. I just have not had the time to investigate and learn.

    What might some of you turdo experts recommend if you were building your dream. And the why is important as well.
     
  2. adnoh

    adnoh Senior Member

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    Full-Race Stage 3 GT

    30psi is a bit overkill, but IMO this is the kit to have. If you go with a bigger turbo, you're going to have to sacrifice some bottom end due to lag, but you'll make it up in the top end.

    If I had your motor, this would be my dream kit. It can produce 515WHP @ 19psi. Unless you're going for an all out Drag car, this is as good as it gets.
     
  3. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    the only way you're going 30 psi is with a 3.5 or 5-bar map sensor.
    most ems, including hondata won't support either. they stop at the 3 bar, or 27psi.

    no mention of rods?

    if you plan to drive this on the street, you're crazy.

    you're talking full out race gas.
    1200-1600 cc injectors
    1500 rpm idle


    if you want the best, go with the full race stage 4 kit.
    add your ems and fuel system

    ohh, yeah, and after about 600... the oem fuel system won't cut it. you're going to need a cell, an fittings, outboard sump pumps, the whole 9.
     
  4. PhyRe

    PhyRe Senior Member

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    this doesnt sound like a home made set up but check out www.homemadeturbo.com lots of great info and as of right now there is a thread about choosing the best turbo for your set up. plus alot of poeple over there make coustom stuff so you can find mad shit ull need at good prices.
     
  5. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    Yes there are actually 4 rods :) Eagle's. Forgot to mention 84mm bore.

    I did not know that the Hondata stopped at 3 bar. So boost is going down to 20ish

    I am crazy, but will not be able to afford rubber weekly. Figure a few vettes will help offset some cost. Seriously, It will be a weekend driver and some track time.

    The fuel pump Is a bosch capable of 320 lbs/hr at 50 psi. The pump supply from the tank has been upgraded to match the fuel pump. 1/2 tubing, 3/8 npt to An fittings. Are you saying the 5/16 line to the engine will be to small. I have considered replacing it to SS braided.

    Why a fuel cell? the stock tank will not work?

    I was just at the RC sight and looked at injector sizing. the higher the fuel pressure the smaller the injector required. What does running higher fuel pressure cause?

    In the end I would preffer to sacrifice HP and not have lag.

    Why not turn up the boost on a stage 3. Will performance and efficiency suffer?

    My brain hurts...
     
  6. ludeintentions99

    ludeintentions99 Junior Member

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    ok bro. this is no slam on you by any means! it sounds like you have a good solid motor to throw the boost too. but youre aiming a little too high. first of all....20 psi is still a whole lot of boost but it is realistically obtainable. for you EMS i would go with an AEM plug-and-play unit. with that much boost you are going to need the tuning capabilities that aem offers and hondata, mugen,spoon, etc. do not offer. with the aem ems. you can control fuel flow, tune each individual cylinder, set boost to come in more in certain gears and less in others, it offers a boost controller, etc. etc. it is by far the most tuner friendly ems available. secondly i would DEFINATELY do much more research before buying ANYTHING!!!! you really need to read up on work other people have done to b18c's and accieved what you want yourself. dont just read one.......read 50! find out what worked for them. then buy those parts so you dont waste money on stuff you dont need, or worse, doenst hold up. anyway thats my advice. good luck man!
     
  7. abdelsol

    abdelsol Member

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    No slam taken, there has been countless hours of research and learning. I have the mechanical portion down pat, having spent the last 26 years designing and engineering tools, gages, assembly equipment. However as my questions show there is a lot to be learned with electronics.

    I am hoping from this thread to get some good ideas, some school of hard knocks advice, where to get current information (not 10 year old books on out dated technology) and of course usefull knowledge to pass on.

    For all of you that choose to share thank you :worthy:

    For those who don't :wtf: are you doing here?
     
  8. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    26 years? damn, you're old! lol :p

    your eagle rods aren't as strong as you think. they are good for 400-ish, and after that, some make it, some don't.

    ignore the pressure--- you want volume. keep near stock rail pressures, liek 45-psi, unless your larger injector requires more psi to idel without "dripping" in fuel.
    stock tank and lines will get you to about 450 before you start leaning out up top with an intank

    so, you want 500 hp and no lag?

    buy a v8.

    if you want even 400 hp, you're lagging until at least 4000 rpms. thats all there is to it.
     
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