Cold Start Problem D15B 1990 Civic

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Thurobred

Thurobred
Hi, I recently swapped engines from a very bad D15B to a better D15B with about 80,000 miles and in great condition. The swap went well or at least i thought so; however, i need a muffler and to check the timing still(right because I pulled the distributor?). I removed the A/C compressor,condenser,and evaporator could that be why the check engine light is on since the swap last week or is that cause we went from an auto to manual transmission? The problem I'm having is that the the new Civic(exactly the same 1990 lx but 5 speed) won't stay running' when i start it on cold Wisconsin mornings. I've tried to find anything we missed(connector,vacuum,etc) only to remain stumped. I've recently found out the alternator is bad and I'm putting a new one in, but this cold start problem happens with a newer battery and with a charger on it the last two days on trickle. The engine tries to stay running but stalls unless I keep the rpm's up. After about one minute of holding the idle with the gas pedal, it finally stays running' but at a real low idle(like 500 rpm) Then, as long as it doesn't sit all day, the car runs fine but is very jerky @ certain rpm's in certain gears. The reason I'm stumped is because i never saw this problem when that exact 1.5 liter was in my original 1990 lx (automatic)just last week we swapped... why would this be? what about the Idle air control motor? I've never cleaned it or replaced it, but there was never a stalling issue before with this particular motor???this was my first engine swap, but i didn't go at it alone; i had the help of a skilled mechanic thats pretty good with Honda's. Any suggestions or Ideas would be great or if you all can think of anything i didn't. Thanks.
 
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do you get a Check Engine Light? any codes in the ECU? sounds like EACV problem - do you have the right connectors at the sensors?
 
I get a check engine light

I do get a check engine light, but never had any of these issues with this motor prior to the swap. What connections and where should i look? I'm a lil' iffy on the green injector connectors not being mixed up(check my other thread please). I heard these two green connectors can be interchanged with no effect...is this true?
 
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if you mean the green connectors for the fuel injector and the EACV, you can't switch them - they are different, but if you could switch them it definitely would have an effect - you can get the two white connectors for the tandem valve and the intake air temp sensor switched - tandem valve connector is 2-wire with one orange and one black with yellow stripe wires - the IAT is also 2-wire connector with one red with yellow stripe and one green with white stripe wires - either one of these can also be switched with the green connector at the EACV, which has one blue/yellow and one black/yellow wires - if you had Check Engine Light, what code is the ECU showing?
 
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