Colin's EK Hatch

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Why is it that OBD2 Integra's clip right in? Like B18B OBD2 will plug right in to my shock tower plugs. I'm guessing its different? I have the D16Z6 and have a good idea how to convert the OBD2 98+spec using my B16A dizzy, alt, and a comparable OBD1 fuel injectors. I could use a B16A2 harness? Thats what a guy at n1concepts told me when I called about a swap price. But if all OBD2 civics are one piece....eff that. Or I could soder away and put my harness to the OBD2 plugs on the ITR JDM harness. Just want to have it all figured out and thought something would be comparable

Sorry, didn't mean to jack your thread.

Yea the integra has a 2 piece harness from 94-01. The b16a2 harness will not work. Most of the obd1 plugs on your stock harness will work for the ITR swap. I think you will have to 1. wire vtec 2. wire knock sensor 3. get a different iacv plug and wire that. You can "harvest" all these plugs off of the harness on your swap. Just wire them strait to the ecu.
 
I got the Knock taken care of in my current swap. I was just trying to not harvest stuff off it so I can maximizes the sale price and minimize the 98+spec cost lol I have the B16A set up to be BAR'd in CA and was hoping to keep it all together....but I can always get another D16Z6 harness. And from what I know about the fuel injector plugs...they are slightly different but I figure I can soder the ITR plugs too...and then there's still the FITV issue. If I can get the info for that stuff....I think I'll be good to go....hitting high 13's on street tires with adj cam gears nice header and a tune....at least that would be my goal lol

Figure I can sell my swap (with USDM P30 $$) for around $2000 and then another $2200 more I should be set with the swap and a clutch (with a supposedly half life left on the timing belt and water pump.....supposedly lol)
 
Search 3 wire to 2 wire iacv. I think when the FITV was eliminated, the iacv was built to perform it's duties. Remember I bought this car swapped. The only swap I've done is a simple obd1 gsr into an eg.
 
Thanks. I'll look into the IACV. I think I'm figuring it out. If I get the swap (probably this summer) I'll make a thread. Would like to see what it hits and if its bragging rights worthy, I'll take a video of my goal setting high 13 pass.....lol
 
Nice EK man!! I got one myself and plan on doing a H22 swap. I may steal your rear seat to carpet idea. Thats an excellent idea!
 
Wow it's been months since I've updated this. That's because there have been no updates to give:( Until now:) The car has sat undriven in my garage since May. Something is fucked with the clutch where it won't release from the flywheel. The hydraulics are fine - pretty sure it's the pressure plate. The motor also smoked heavily at high rpm's.

So, I started pulling it apart this week. Got everything yanked down down to the axles and shift linkage. Once those are out, it's time for rebuilding.
 
Got my garage re-organized. My roommate's 400whp s14 is back together, so I finally have space to work. I got the car torn down to the shortblock and trans sitting on the 3 main mounts. I'll be pulling the rest when I get my hands on a lift.

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One question regarding mounts: The weld nuts on the frame rails for the torque mounts are toast on both sides:( The driver side one was never there, and I fucked the weld nuts on the pass side while removing the mount.

Tranny torque mount nuts are screwed
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Driver's side are screwed too
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This warmup we have had has let me continue progress on the hatch. I finally got the block and trans pulled from the car. When I got the car, all 4 cv joints had busted boots. Needless to say I went through several cans of degreaser.
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The block itself is an oil coated mess. The previous owner used liquid gasket on everything:mad:
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The main reason I stopped driving the hatch is because the clutch no longer operated. Pushing in the clutch pedal would not disengage the trans from the engine. Well, I got the trans off and figured out what was up. The bellhousing has this thick grease all over.
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The inner race of the throwout bearing has chunks missing..
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Some metal chunks also came out...
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And I've got some nice scoring on the flywheel. Not sure if they are too deep to turn out?
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The rod bearings looked good, as did the upper main bearing shells.
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This one didn't look so hot.
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And these def. are showing signs of wear
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All of the pistons show a little wear on the thrust surfaces
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OMG ! Good thing you started taking that thing apart while it was still in one piece !
 
I am on a search for a good degreaser. I'm going to get aircract stripper for the motor & trans. What is something good for painted surfaces? The generic "engine degreaser" I have been using just doesn't cut it.
 
i always used brake-cleen. but i never really had to care much for the painted surfaces.
the times is did use it on a painted surface it was ok as long as it was wiped quickly.

but, if you are really worried about the paint, then i would use dawn dish soap and a light brush.
 
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