Okay good, now you've identified that the fan motor still works, we can go on to the next step. Do not take your car to the dealer just yet. Your next step is is to make sure that your thermostat opens at the right temperature. After your coolant gauge shows about half way, feel the upper radiator hose to see if you got any pressure. This sometimes lets u know that the t-stat is opening up like it should. That's the lazy way. If it does work, then u need to look into your ECT sensor usually located by the thermostat housing. Here's a brief explanation of how it works; when your engine temperature gets to a certain temp. the t-stat opens to allow for cold coolant to circulate. At this time, the ECT sensor senses the temp off the engine and triggers a signal to the fan relay and turns it on to help the cooling. The bleeding, some vehicle have a bleeder screw around the same area as the t-stat. This allow you to bleed any trapped air in your engine from accumulating and causes abnormal heating that u don't need. In the case where u have trapped air, your t-stat will never open thus not allowing your fan to come on. If u do have a bleeder screw, loosen it (do not remove) while the engine is idling and allow for unnecessary to exit. You'll know you're good once you see pure coolant flowing through, then tighten it back up. To test your ECT switch and wiring, remove the 2 pins connector and test for battery voltage between the GRN wire and body ground. You should have battery voltage. Turn off the ignition and check for continuity in the BLK wire between the ECT switch and body ground. You should have continuity and while doing this, check the temp. gauge to see if it reads above or below normal, if it reads above normal, then replace your ECT switch. Hope this helps! There's also a way to check for fan relay also. I'm not quite sure if the relays for the AC is compatible. Let me know if u need the instructions.
