Crank Pulley HELP

[HatchSpeeD]

Well, my crank pulley bolt has been backing out on my 93 dx (daily driver POS!) off & on for the last 6 months. I've tightened it up about 6 times throughout that time frame. Tonight when I started my car to leave from work I heard "the noise" again under the hood. My crank pulley was wobbling & my alternator belt was sorta split down the middle & looks like its going to break soon. (fairly new belt too damnit!) Usually I just tighten it up & it will stay tight for a good month or so but tonight, 5 mins after I tightened it started doing it again. My question is, say if I just took the crank pulley bolt off would to pulley come off or could it possibly stay in place. I was going to try & do that tonight to put some locktite on the threads but was unsure if the whole thing would just come right off.

Secondly, my timing has been off that whole time too. I have the ignition timing all the way advanced to compensate for it. Would the timing being off have anything to do with the bolt keep backing off because maybe the engine has to work harder than it should. Sounds stupid but i'm just curious. I have do go to work early tomorrow & attempt to fix this so any help ASAP would be appreciated. Where are ya night crew!

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

The pulley bolt should not come out on it's own. Are you torqueing(sp?) it down or using German torque specs? (Gudentight) The torque spec on it is 130 ft. lbs. That's a lot. About double what your head bolts should be at.
DO NOT run the engine without the bolt holding the pulley. It will most likely come off.
I think advancing your timing all the way isn't much of a fix. Torque the crank pulley bolt down and set the timing with a timing light or pay someone to do it. Takes longer to warm the car up to N.O.T. then it does to set timing.
If you do use Locktite(which might be a good idea if you can't seem to torque the bolt down.), don't use red. You might have an extremely hard time getting it off if and when you need to. Use blue. Yellow might even be too strong b/c I have this feeling you don't have all the proper tools. Blue should do it if you can't torque it down correctly.

 

[HatchSpeeD]

Ok, first off I haven't torqued it down to "spec", each time I had to tighten it up I used an air gun. If your sure that the torque rating is 130lbs for the crank pulley i'll ask the mechanic at my job tomorrow if he has a torque wrench. Secondly, I was going to use the blue one. Third, what
I meant about taking the crank pulley bolt off was that if I did, would the pulley just fall off. I was trying to avoid taking out the bolt and having the pulley fall off along with all the other acessories belts. I wanted to simply take the bolt out, apply thread lock Goo, and put it back in without everything falling apart. I wasn't intending on driving it with no crank pulley bolt. LOL, give me some credit...

Also, the timing id off a tooth or so from the belt, thus the advanced ignition timing. I know its not a "fix", I just haven't had time to fix nor had good weather. (no garage) So the ign. timing was advanced in order to compensate for the belt being slightly off. If its not, it is extremely slow & has absolutely no throttle response.

 

[VTECin5th]

No the pulley won't fall off if you take the bolt out.
(this applies to b16 h22 h23 b20a, and my guess is all of them)
Timing off ... and crank pulley is loose?
It sounds like whoever put the timing belt on missed a tooth
We haven't had any fall off because we didn't tighten them, but we did have to have a few removed at a tire shop.
$5 and they spend 2 seconds hitting it with their air tools...cheap maintenance.

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

1)Yes, I am sure. Anywhere between 120 and 134.

2)Good.

3)No. It won't fall off. Not trying to be a dick but the way you worded it, you sound pretty green. Not that it's necessarily a bad thing, everyone has to start somewhere.

You didn't say valve timing, you just said timing and then started talking about advancing your ignition timing. Pardon me. Comprendo now. Being off a tooth shouldn't cause bolts to come loose. I know they run a little shitty like that, but not enough to rattle the car apart.

 

[HatchSpeeD]

Quoted post[/post]]
No the pulley won't fall off if you take the bolt out.

I figured that but wasn't sure. Hmm, I wonder if maybe that key is missing. Probably just wasn't torqued down to spec. Well, I bought the car from this girl (in the summer) for cheap & she just recently did the timing belt herself under the supervision of her brother. I bought the car with the cat. broken off the exhaust, shifter cable pin broken (auto) & timing being way off. There is a factory recall I believe for 92-93 auto civics for that shifter pin. What I think happened was she was driving on the hwy, the pin let go, downshifted into a lower gear, broke the cat off the exhaust due do backpressure/high revs or what have you & then jumped timing. After I bought the car a friend & I tried to just pull off the T-belt off the cam to put it back to spec with out having to loosen the tensioner & drop the mount and so on cuz we were pressed for time. Got it closer to spec but still off a bit, as I found out later with a timing gun so I just advanced ignition timing to compensate for now. I only mentioned the timing thing as a hypothesis but i'm giving other variables now. Either way, tomorrow I think i'm going to drop the mount, hopefully get this thing in time, take out the crank pulley bolt, apply locktite & see what she does. Can't wait to sell this thing. Waiting to swap the other coupe...

 

[HatchSpeeD]

Quoted post[/post]]
3)No. It won't fall off. Not trying to be a dick but the way you worded it, you sound pretty green. Not that it's necessarily a bad thing, everyone has to start somewhere.

Are you insulting me? ::Internet PIMP SMACK:: !!!

Yea, may have been worded weird...i'm fricken exhausted, long day & I dont feel like rereading my posts...im off to bed...thx for the help & i'll check back in the morning b4 i'm off to work. Hey, happy belated St. Patties day...eh'

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

Good luck with it. You may not want to use Locktite if you can get you hands on a 1/2" torque wrench. Get it to 130 ft. lbs. and you should be good. That is unless you don't plan on having to pull it off again or care about the poor bastard who gives himself a hernia in his backyard trying to get your bolt out.

 

[spicer]

Should back off the ps and alt belts to take the tension off the balancer pully before you try and retorque the bolt. You also shouldn't need loctite on that bolt. If it were my car, I would order a brand new bolt from Honda, borrow or buy the balancer pully holding tool (big hex + handle with a socket hole through the middle, about $25) apply engine oil to the threads of the new bolt (try not to get any on the flat washer part) and torque it to 53 lb-ft using a torque wrench. 150 lb-ft is ridiculous, no wonder there are bolts falling out. Again: slack alt. and p.s. belts; use pully holder; oil threads of new bolt (NOT loctite); torque to 53 lb-ft.
Feel free to double check the torque spec in a shop manual, Page 6-61.
The only reason those bolts fail is if they are over-torqued and re-used. The engine spins counter-clockwise, which is why the bolt FEELS alot tighter than 53 lb-ft when you try and take it out.
This is how it would be done at a Honda dealership, at least the one I work at.

 

[MikeBergy]

FYI. Your pulley COULD eventually fall off. Mine did. Luckily I was at a shop at the time, and the car was immediately turned off. My pulley bolt came loose across town on my way to the shop, and the bolt fell out at my friend's out about 2 miles from the shop. The pulley fell off at the shop. It could happen to you. Nothing super bad happened: I lost the timing key, and had to spend $3 on the replacement at the honda dealership, and it wasted most of my day, as I had no car, and I had to go from one city to the next over where the dealership was to get the part. Just tighten it down and use some blue threadlock, and be done with it.

 

[spoonracer84eg]

I took my crank pulley off yesterday. I used my impact wrench which is rated at 350 lbs/in to put it back on. Just an idea if you cant get a torque wrench.

 

[HatchSpeeD]

The crappy haynes manual says 134lbs...go figure well im off...

 

[97CTR]

It is 130 ft/lbs. And the crank pulley wrench is no 25, more like 75

 

[HatchSpeeD]

Well, got everything off today...come to find out the damn crank pulley bolt snapped off inside. Well, the end part broke off & the rest of the threads are fucked with the exception of 3 threads closest to the bolt head. Im gonna attempt to drill it out & retap the threads. Anyone have any experience with broke crank pulley bolts & retapping? Any success? If not, i'm junking the bitch.

 

[MikeBergy]

Try a properly sized easy out before drilling and reatapping.

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

53 ft. lbs.??? I checked 3 different sources when I was questioned about that torque spec. Just wanted to be 100% sure. They all ranged from 120 to 134. How could there be such a huge difference between your source and every other available? You may want to double check that.
Bolt extractor should hopefully work. Drill a little hole in the bolt(or what's left of it) and twist the extractor into place and turn that bitch out.

 

[vanillakilla]

Quoted post[/post]]
It is 130 ft/lbs. And the crank pulley wrench is no 25, more like 75

I bought one for 30 and the damn hexagon was too small so I toook the oil pan off jammed the crankshaft with a pipe and reefed on it as hard as i could with a 4 ft pipe around a breaker bar and it finallt snapped loose I thought the fuckin breaker bar was gonna snap.

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

Quoted post[/post]]

Quoted post[/post]]
It is 130 ft/lbs. And the crank pulley wrench is no 25, more like 75

I bought one for 30 and the damn hexagon was too small so I toook the oil pan off jammed the crankshaft with a pipe and reefed on it as hard as i could with a 4 ft pipe around a breaker bar and it finallt snapped loose I thought the fuckin breaker bar was gonna snap.

Little easier to pull the flywheel inspection cover and stick a prybar in between the ring gear and flywheel housing. Actually, it's much easier.

 

[HatchSpeeD]

I bought one for 30 and the damn hexagon was too small so I toook the oil pan off jammed the crankshaft with a pipe and reefed on it as hard as i could with a 4 ft pipe around a breaker bar and it finallt snapped loose I thought the fuckin breaker bar was gonna snap.
Little easier to pull the flywheel inspection cover and stick a prybar in between the ring gear and flywheel housing. Actually, it's much easier.

LoL, thats the way I did it, took off the flywheel cover...anyway yea the bolt was a beatch...broke one of the easy outs, then had to drill that bitch out, but eventually got it out. The crank pulley I used from my other DX engine wasn't the same so I couldn't use my AC/PS belts but thankfully the alt. belt still matched.

 

[vanillakilla]

I remember trying that a while back on my friends 88 integra and it wouldn't work so I didn't try it. I was in the process of rebuilding the motor so all of that stuff had to come out anyway. the guy at the tool store said that is what he hears every weekend somebody can't get the crank pulley off of a toyota or honda, he said most people put a breaker bar on the pulley and pin it against the frame and turn the engine over but since the engine wasn't in the car I wasn't going to do it.