CRX check engine help

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Well before I went and drilled out the rivets I took a can of flux remover for soldering and sprayed down the contacts on the TPS and the connector, then I cleaned them with acetone followed by 99% isopropal alcohol. Pulled the ECU and Hazard fuse, reset the ECU and all is well.
 
yeah theres a difference the hf and si are mpfi motors yours is spfi

you meant dpfi, right? ;)

dennis - thanks for the update; i'll keep this thread in mind as i have the same year/model.

rep.
 
you meant dpfi, right? ;)

dennis - thanks for the update; i'll keep this thread in mind as i have the same year/model.

rep.
rolf, i sure did and the funny thing is when i was typing that out i knew it looked and sounded funny but couldn't pick it out lol, im getting old
 
Well, code 7 strikes again. It's been running great for the past few days only to throw a code again.
Looks like I might have to find an aftermarket TPS after all
 
Just for shits and giggles, go get a used TB with the sensor still attached. It will cost you significantly less than buying a new TPS, and it could fix your problem. Worth it IMO. In the event you end up having to get a new TPS anyway, you can always sell the TB and get your money back.
 
George thanks for the idea. So you think a TB from a junk yard would be a good idea. I have found places that sell aftermarket TPS's they go for about $30-50
 
I'm sure someone on here has got one, or someone in your area. There is a guy in Wallingford that does swaps and has access to parts--I could give you his number if you wanted to go that route. His name is Mario. Bill knows him--used to work with him at Executive Honda. Good guy, very knowledgeable.

IMO, it's easier and cheaper. As long as the TPS hasn't been removed previously, you should just be able to throw the new gasket and TB on there and be ready to go in 15 minutes.
 
yeah , I'm interested in his contact info, and you just reminded me I also need to get a hold of Bill as my CV joint is sounding like it's in need or repair/replacement.
 
well, I pulled the ECU and Hazzard fuse for about 10mins the other day after it threw a code 7 again, and everything has been fine since. If it happens again, I'll probably give the guy in wallingford a ring.
 
No expert here but mine was doing the same thing last winter. It was the idle air motor thingy on the back of the intake.I beat it with a rubber mallet and it went away.

Please excuse my technical terms lol.
 
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