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crx, not much brake

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by c-rex-beat, Aug 20, 2009.

  1. c-rex-beat

    c-rex-beat yeah, it's a vtec.

    Likes Received:
    Aug 3, 2008
    tyler, TX
    89 crx, just replaced front wheel bearings and now no pedal pressure. all lines r good, master cylinder replaced a year ago but that don"t mean it's good. I'm lost.
  2. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

    Likes Received:
    Jun 11, 2005
    Central Texas
    Pump the brakes several times, full depress, full release, like 20 times. Then take it for a test drive.

    When you pulled the calipers, did you remove the brake lines?

    Also, inspect the brake lines for any damage or leakage.
  3. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

    Likes Received:
    Oct 28, 2004
    NW MS, Y'all
    Bearings shouldn't have mattered with brakes unless you cracked the bleeder and compressed the piston to get the caliper off the rotor and didn't tighten back before releasing the compression.

    Easiest thing would be jack up the whole car, take off all wheels, start bleeding in a cross pattern. (fr/l- rr/r and r/f-l/rr) because that's how the proportioning valve sends fluid incase of an abrupt stop the wheels won't lock up front or rear.
    Keep bleeding until no air comes out. THe person pumping the peddle should pump quickly several times and hold. then crack that particular bleeder for a response. (just make sure that they are pumping the middle peddle, not the clutch.. like my wife) And you don't want to go past 10 bleeds without checking the level of the res. so you don't go dry and have to start all over again.

    If you still have issues and can't get ALL air out, start over and bleed the master first OR you may want to pull the master slightly away from the booster to see if the O ring is bad and the fluid being sucked back behind the master INTO the booster.

    Just my .02
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