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CRX SI B16a

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Tamer, Sep 9, 2003.

  1. Tamer

    Tamer Junior Member

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    :bash: i got 91 Crx si with a b16a after having the swap and had it running for months it decides to quit on me while im driving, have it sit for a while and then it will run. the week before it happend i replaced the plugs with bosh platinum for 94 del sole vtch dohc. my first guess was replacing the coil, done that still same thing with less power than what i had and shut offs as well, second i replaced the ignitor, still same thing, so then i went out and replaced the cap, got msd ignition, coil, and cap, worked and then same thing again it shuts off after a while of driving, so then i found a place where i can get a obd-0 remanufactured distrubutors, bought one and put it in and took out all the msd stuff, it ran better than what it normaly did when i was replacing parts drove the sucker around and took it home to park it for about an hour and when i went to start the engine it started and then shut off on me and wouldnt start again, so found out that i can order the plugs that fit the b16a or which they say the best plugs for it online, i put the plugs in and it started fine and went to its orginal self, drove the car around turned it off many times and back on drove for at least two hours and runs great. i was very happy, and then this morning it wouldnt start same thing it cranks but nothing. battery brand new, new diributor, new plugs and wires, the only code its throwing is 7 which is the TPS sensor ever since my motor's first run, i have checked to see if im getting fuel and it is getting it. anyone would know anything? please this has been driving me nuts
     
  2. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    check your alternator. i think a member on the board, DTEC, was having a similar problem and it was his alternator.
     
  3. jshubin

    jshubin Junior Member

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    definitely the distributor itself see it has gone bad when it gets warm it shuts off had the same problem with mine it would run till it got nice and warm and it would wait for me to be out in bum fuck then it would quit on me would have to wait a couple of hours or even a day to try and crank it again 99.9% sure
     
  4. kingwilly

    kingwilly Senior Member

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    get new dis cap/rotor,check your grounds,get some denso spark plugs...bosch-sucks..then get a tune-up,check your timing
     
  5. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    also, platnium plugs arent all they are cracked up to be, get a good set of NGK's if u want the best plug.
     
  6. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    GSRcrxSI if it were his a;ternator wouldnt the battery light come on? Ok kid, is your battery light on, if so check and change the alternator. If the distributor is bad then the car would lunge and surge and it would probably throw a code like a (code 15, that;s the code I got for my teg when the Dizzy went out.) My suggestion is to check the wiring from the distributor to the ECU for breaks, check the injectors (stethoscope is what I was told to use). And of course cehck to see if you are getting a spark, fuel just to make sure check the air filter... I hope I helped, good luck
     
  7. Tamer

    Tamer Junior Member

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    as of today i will be rechecking things, so if the alternator has gone bad it would at least show the battery light coming on when i drove it, but it didnt and also wouldnt it drain the battery, the alternator is working properly when trying to start the engine, how can the new distribuor go bad this fast? the roater spins, and the plugs i have are brand new NGK BkR6E-11 which is the most recomended for the b16a engine. so if the timing was set too high would it mess up the plugs? im suspecting that it could be my wiring harness just because the TPS code im throwing i have been told that i have a bad tps sensor replaced it and its still the same. well later on this evenging i will try to check everything and i will let u guys know what happens. thanks for the help
     
  8. K-V-NO

    K-V-NO Member

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    heard of this problem from a friend, check your distributer, cap, check your timing, it might be off, your belt could have jumped.
     
  9. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    i dont know the specifics, but i know the problem was his alternator, but the batery light didnt come on i dont think, because it took him a looong time to figure out what the problem was, he replaced the alternator and it stopped cutting out on him , pm DTEC about it. he would know better then me since it was his car.
     
  10. kingwilly

    kingwilly Senior Member

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    how does the motor run exactly,what does it do?and yes the dis cap and rotor do go bad eventually..check all your fuses too,just in case one burned out
     
  11. Jdubspeeds

    Jdubspeeds Senior Member

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    Well as for the tps sensor. Check the voltage on the middle wire of the plug (while its plugged in) turn the key to the on position. when throttle is fully closed the voltage should read around .36-.44 when the throttle is wide open it should be around 4.5 or so. If your no where near these numbers loosen the screws on both sides of your tps and adjust it. If you cant get enough adjustment take the brass rings out from inside the screw holes on the sides of the tps. If your voltage is backwards ie: its reads 4.5 when closed and .34 or so when its wide open switch the outside wires. If you cannot adjust it I would replace the tps sensor. As for the shutting down when running I doubt it is your alternator because your cars battery powers the car and If it shuts it self down and you are able to restart it then the battery still has enough power to fire the plugs. Did you replace the coil on the inside of the dist? Also have you tried another friends ECU to see if the ECU may be bad. I would also check all your fuses in the engine bay. There are some relays in there. All your symptoms suggest to me that the coil is bad inside your distributor. They arent too expensive. Good luck to you and feel free to email directly if you still cant figure it out.
     
  12. Tamer

    Tamer Junior Member

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    well after rechecking everything, come to find out im still getting fuel, still having spark, alternator is fine, checked fuses, and relays everything seems to be fine, and yea its a new coil, ignitor, cap roater and distributor got it all i one, and i got other coil ignitor and cap i got as well, not including the msd ignition and coil im not using now. and KINGWILLY when i placed the NGK plugs it started fine and i got the power i was losing before and i did kinda notice the ideling a little high around 2 or 2 1/12 for a minute or so. so for now the only thing would be left is to recheck the timing and while im at it i might as well change the timing belt, anyone know an easy way to check the timing, and replacing the timing belt, what i was thinking of doing is taking the two bolts off on the driving side month and jacking the engine up from the bottom as u know its a crx not much room in that area and not having the tools, i will be checking the ecu as well and is the wiring on a PR3 ecu the same as PW0? and thanks for the TPS help i will get to that as soon as i get this thing running. thanks for ur help everyone
     
  13. kingwilly

    kingwilly Senior Member

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    maybe try resetting the ecu..i usually would take the negative cable off the battery for 10 seconds or so then put it back on..also when you put your key in the ignition put it to on but dont start it yet and wait for the fuel pump to pressurize then start it up...could you tell me how your motor runs again?what is the main problem?also changing the timing belt is a job you should plan for cuz its some work you will need someone to help you take the crank pulley bolt off..if your gonna change the timing belt i would try to replace the water pump and oil pump and any seals down there...good luck
     
  14. LROCRX

    LROCRX Junior Member

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    Well, as for the bad alternator giving a battery light, I don´t think so, mine just went bad with no battery light at all (alternator short circuited). but it also made my brand new battery drop dead so...
     
  15. Tamer

    Tamer Junior Member

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    well well, i kinda gave up on trying to figure out the problem, i towed it to a shop, and its been a week so far and all that they are telling me that they got it to run for a minute after they sprayed throttle body cleaner, and they are saying that there is something with the fuel that its not giving the right amount of fuel, then a day after that they are saying that the injectors are not firing up, and it could be the ecu itself. what do guys think?? thanks again
     
  16. mellowboy

    mellowboy Senior Member

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    Not bein a smartass or something but if its throwing a code 7 , doesn't that tell you to replace it ? CHeck if its connected right. Do you smell fuel inside your car?
     
  17. mellowboy

    mellowboy Senior Member

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    oh also I would suggest replacing the tps. I had the same exact problem when i first got done with my swap.
     
  18. ConceptSleeper

    ConceptSleeper Member

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    little off here but the best plugs for the B16 is NGK part number BKR6E-N-11, only place i have seen them are on ebay or through Monarch Products 888-800-9629, hope this info helps now OR later!
     
  19. kingwilly

    kingwilly Senior Member

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    get a new fuel filter...check your ground connections..maybe the alterantor ground popped off somehow..i used to own a 90 teg and the alternator went out and so one night i was out cruising and it just died on me..so check that out..it sounds like something electrical..i would check all the wires and connections from the motor all the way to the ecu..good luck bro
     
  20. mellowboy

    mellowboy Senior Member

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    Ok guys check this. The only reason his car is actin that way is because of his tps. I know this cause first of all this happened to me before. He also said that its throwing a code 7 which is the tps. I bet anything if he replaced it then his car is fine.
     
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