Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by kOOlrean, Jun 19, 2003.
after i swap the Type R into my 90 rex si....i wanna keep it all motor ...what should i do next???
Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valve springs & retainers, cam gears, Chipped P28 ecu (trust me, 2 of my friends have real ITR's with that), lightened flywheel, complete pulley kit, cusco suspension, 5 lug conversion, JDM ITR headers, 2 1/2 inch straight piping, and all the little other bolt on stuff you want.
brakes, CRX brakes suck, and on top of that you are putting a bad ass motor in it. if you upgrade your breaks put 90 teg brakes in it, and you will also need a minimum wheel size of 15 inch if you upgrade your brakes...
he dont have to worry bout wheel size, hes got 17's, lol.. but yea i forgot about brakes, speaking of which i need to get mine upgraded as well, lol
thanx all...souns good....ima prolly go brakes 1st.......new cams...AEM cold air intake....and maybe headers next....but g2 get the $$ 1st !!
ok, i disagree with almost everything you recommend.
first, a lightened flywheel creates a loss of torque which is bad.
complete pulley kit throws off the harmonic balance of the motor which is also bad.
5 lug conversion does NOT work on a crx.
skunk2 cams, springs, retainers and cam gears are all unnecessary unless he's looking for 200whp...and i wouldn't recommend their cam gears anyway because they are cheap.
also, a chipped p28 isn't obd0, which means a conversion harness is needed...which is 200+ dollars...
unfortunately there aren't many ecu's available for obd0...but if you are going with anything i'd run obd1 and hondata.
first of all, the motor is OBD 2. a lightend flywheel and a complete pulley kit throws a shit load more horsepower to the wheels, so i don't know wtf YOU'RE talkin about. it wouldn't throw off the balance, it would do the complete opposite. and YES, a 5 lug conversion does work on a CRX, its the same thing as if you were changing the back drums to disks, except all the way around. and about the not needing cams, valve springs, retainers, the ITR motor already has like 190hp or 195, some shit like that, so you might as well get it all, he said he wanted to go all motor anyways.
i would go with almost everything he said too, except the pulleys, they do throw off the balance. a lightened flywheel doesnt decrease torque (there was a thread about this a little while ago). i also think that the 5 lug conversion isnt impossible to do on a crx, but definitley more work, and almost not worth it. and i see nothing wrong with skunk2 parts, good sheit in my opinion.
well i'd hope so
yeah, the arms are way to long for lug conversion. The hamonic balancer he is talking about is so your bottom end spins correctly and is evenly weighted all the way across, thus there are only a handful of companies that can actually make them because it takes actual technology and not just a cnc machine. A lightened flywheel takes away from torque and just makes it so you rap out faster, but you get worse gas milage because the less weight to push at a low rpm makes rpm's drop faster thus having to give more gas. Also from shifting to another gear you sometimes the rpms are dropped too low so yeah, you kind of loose it there. His car is obd0, not obd2, sso yeah, he has to convert tons of shit but it can be done with a conversion harness. SO yeah, get your fucking head out of youra ass.
what do you mean the arms are too long for lug conversion? and i would like someone to show me proof that a lightened flywheel causes loss of torque and gas mileage. i have a lightened flywheel and i get 30 mpg and i dont feel any loss of torque. someone show me proof, show me numbers. not what you think is logical.
i guess it all depends how quick he wants to be..y should he replace head components..(cams,valve springs,retainers)???
if that was a case y spend the xtra lute to get a Type R motor..There already built to race..theres no reason to replace that shit if hes stayin NA..
listen to chet, his itr powered eg owns.
i still want to see numbers. i have a lightened flywheel and from what i understand he doesnt. i get 30 mpg on my b18c1 and dont feel any torque difference.......
i looked around for a while to try and find a test done on a honda .... but couldnt find any
so heres one done on an M3
the stock clutch / (26lb) flywheel was replaced with "Active Autowerke's high-performance clutch/flywheel package consists of a pressure plate, release bearing, clutch disc 12-lb flywheel and bolts."
heres a link to the full article
CRX 5 lug conversion:
Thanks to my buddy Eric for this:
The reason I did it on my CR-X was to be able to fit TypeR rotors in
conjunction with Spoon Sports AL 4pot calipers - that's why I did it... Most
of the time I just had 5lug 15" black steel wheels and no one ever noticed I
had BIG brakes up front.
You do need to be relatively mechanically inclined to do this. If you don't
know the first thing about brakes I would avoid doing this - that's just my
advice to you. It isn't "hard" per se but you do need to know what's up
cause brakes are after all pretty important stuff....
It's a relatively easy job to do provided you can find a good machinist (not
THAT hard to find).
_ For the Rear (easy!) get complete IntegraR trailing arms (w/ everything:
rotor/hub/disc/caliper) it will just bolt on without any modifications
needed at all.
_ Get yourself an Integra 1" master cylinder and brake booster - it will
also bolt on expect for one thing. The CR-X's master cylinder has two 10mm
fittings for the hard brake lines coming out of it while the Integra has one
10mm and one 12mm fitting. You can't just order the fitting by itself from
Acura it comes with the portion of hard AL line it is attached to - not a
big deal as it costs only like $25 or so.... The alternative is to find a
crashed Integra in the junkyard and get the fitting there along with master
cylinder and brake booster... To cut the fitting off the old line and
properly put it on the new line you will need a hard Al line flare tool -
easily available at harbor freight, pep boys, home depot, etc.... what it
does is that it first cuts the line in a nice clean way, then with the flare
tool you stretch out the end of the line - giving it kind of a lip - that
way the fitting when it tightens holds the line tight against the master
cylinder - does that make sense?
_ Also get the proportioning valve off of any Integra with rear discs (a
rear disc setup has a different front to rear brake bias than a drum setup)
_ For the front, here's where the machinist comes in handy. You need to find
'90-1 Civic EX sedan front knuckles (they HAVE to be 90-1 Civic EX sedan or
it will not work) - then order new hub bearings for a '90-1 Civic EX sedan
from Honda. Get yourself some IntegraR front hubs from Acura. Once you've
got everything you are going to take the front hubs and the Civic EX hub
bearings to the machinist of your choice and you are going to explain to
them that what you want is for them to turn the hubs so that they fit inside
of the hub bearings you are bringing them. Does that make sense?
For front calipers (this is the fun part) you can now use: NSX (2piston),
IntegraR (single piston) = CRV = Odyssey. For front rotors you use IntegraR
PS: I was very active in SCCA and NASA road racing and ran the CR-X as such
at Laguna Seca/Sears Point/Thunderhill/Buttonwillow and never had any
if you want more info pm me and i will hook you up with this guys e-mail he is awesome...
Thanx every body for the post..i am learnin alot....some what confused by the arguing but still learning.!!!!
type R ...its almost here!!!!!!
First of all get your wiring done.
then you can drop any motor in G.
I will be running a type R soon
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