Crx Type R..what's Next

[kOOlrean]

after i swap the Type R into my 90 rex si....i wanna keep it all motor ...what should i do next???

 

[GSRCRXsi]

hey everyone this is my friend jeff, hes a ricer but oh well, lol, jp jeff....but anyway jus so no one starts sayin "what type r?" he is swappin in the ITR motor B18C5. and i vote you lower your fuckin car, lol. get some ground control coilovers with good spring rates, and a good set of shocks like tokico...engine mods i vote get some intake and a good header (if you dont get the 98 spec engine) but if you do get the 98 spec motor, that header it comes with is badass. so intake man.

 

[Gen2Teg]

Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valve springs & retainers, cam gears, Chipped P28 ecu (trust me, 2 of my friends have real ITR's with that), lightened flywheel, complete pulley kit, cusco suspension, 5 lug conversion, JDM ITR headers, 2 1/2 inch straight piping, and all the little other bolt on stuff you want.

 

[MaaseyRacer]

brakes, CRX brakes suck, and on top of that you are putting a bad ass motor in it. if you upgrade your breaks put 90 teg brakes in it, and you will also need a minimum wheel size of 15 inch if you upgrade your brakes...

 

[GSRCRXsi]

he dont have to worry bout wheel size, hes got 17's, lol.. but yea i forgot about brakes, speaking of which i need to get mine upgraded as well, lol

 

[kOOlrean]

thanx all...souns good....ima prolly go brakes 1st.......new cams...AEM cold air intake....and maybe headers next....but g2 get the $$ 1st !!

 

[chet]

Skunk2 stage 2 cams, Skunk2 valve springs & retainers, cam gears, Chipped P28 ecu (trust me, 2 of my friends have real ITR's with that), lightened flywheel, complete pulley kit, cusco suspension, 5 lug conversion, JDM ITR headers, 2 1/2 inch straight piping, and all the little other bolt on stuff you want.

ok, i disagree with almost everything you recommend.

first, a lightened flywheel creates a loss of torque which is bad.

complete pulley kit throws off the harmonic balance of the motor which is also bad.

5 lug conversion does NOT work on a crx.

skunk2 cams, springs, retainers and cam gears are all unnecessary unless he's looking for 200whp...and i wouldn't recommend their cam gears anyway because they are cheap.

also, a chipped p28 isn't obd0, which means a conversion harness is needed...which is 200+ dollars...

unfortunately there aren't many ecu's available for obd0...but if you are going with anything i'd run obd1 and hondata.

 

[Gen2Teg]

first of all, the motor is OBD 2. a lightend flywheel and a complete pulley kit throws a shit load more horsepower to the wheels, so i don't know wtf YOU'RE talkin about. it wouldn't throw off the balance, it would do the complete opposite. and YES, a 5 lug conversion does work on a CRX, its the same thing as if you were changing the back drums to disks, except all the way around. and about the not needing cams, valve springs, retainers, the ITR motor already has like 190hp or 195, some shit like that, so you might as well get it all, he said he wanted to go all motor anyways.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

i would go with almost everything he said too, except the pulleys, they do throw off the balance. a lightened flywheel doesnt decrease torque (there was a thread about this a little while ago). i also think that the 5 lug conversion isnt impossible to do on a crx, but definitley more work, and almost not worth it. and i see nothing wrong with skunk2 parts, good sheit in my opinion.

 

[B16RacerN2NR]

Originally posted by kOOlrean@Jun 19 2003, 03:12 PM
....i wanna keep it all motor...

well i'd hope so

 

[BigJ]

Originally posted by Gen2Teg@Jun 19 2003, 05:31 PM
first of all, the motor is OBD 2. a lightend flywheel and a complete pulley kit throws a shit load more horsepower to the wheels, so i don't know wtf YOU'RE talkin about. it wouldn't throw off the balance, it would do the complete opposite. and YES, a 5 lug conversion does work on a CRX, its the same thing as if you were changing the back drums to disks, except all the way around. and about the not needing cams, valve springs, retainers, the ITR motor already has like 190hp or 195, some shit like that, so you might as well get it all, he said he wanted to go all motor anyways.

yeah, the arms are way to long for lug conversion. The hamonic balancer he is talking about is so your bottom end spins correctly and is evenly weighted all the way across, thus there are only a handful of companies that can actually make them because it takes actual technology and not just a cnc machine. A lightened flywheel takes away from torque and just makes it so you rap out faster, but you get worse gas milage because the less weight to push at a low rpm makes rpm's drop faster thus having to give more gas. Also from shifting to another gear you sometimes the rpms are dropped too low so yeah, you kind of loose it there. His car is obd0, not obd2, sso yeah, he has to convert tons of shit but it can be done with a conversion harness. SO yeah, get your fucking head out of youra ass.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

Originally posted by Slammed89Integra@Jun 19 2003, 11:12 PM
yeah, the arms are way to long for lug conversion. The hamonic balancer he is talking about is so your bottom end spins correctly and is evenly weighted all the way across, thus there are only a handful of companies that can actually make them because it takes actual technology and not just a cnc machine. A lightened flywheel takes away from torque and just makes it so you rap out faster, but you get worse gas milage because the less weight to push at a low rpm makes rpm's drop faster thus having to give more gas. Also from shifting to another gear you sometimes the rpms are dropped too low so yeah, you kind of loose it there. His car is obd0, not obd2, sso yeah, he has to convert tons of shit but it can be done with a conversion harness. SO yeah, get your fucking head out of youra ass.

what do you mean the arms are too long for lug conversion? and i would like someone to show me proof that a lightened flywheel causes loss of torque and gas mileage. i have a lightened flywheel and i get 30 mpg and i dont feel any loss of torque. someone show me proof, show me numbers. not what you think is logical.

 

[JrSiRb16A]

Originally posted by Gen2Teg@Jun 19 2003, 08:31 PM
first of all, the motor is OBD 2. a lightend flywheel and a complete pulley kit throws a shit load more horsepower to the wheels, so i don't know wtf YOU'RE talkin about. it wouldn't throw off the balance, it would do the complete opposite. and YES, a 5 lug conversion does work on a CRX, its the same thing as if you were changing the back drums to disks, except all the way around. and about the not needing cams, valve springs, retainers, the ITR motor already has like 190hp or 195, some shit like that, so you might as well get it all, he said he wanted to go all motor anyways.

i guess it all depends how quick he wants to be..y should he replace head components..(cams,valve springs,retainers)???
if that was a case y spend the xtra lute to get a Type R motor..There already built to race..theres no reason to replace that shit if hes stayin NA..

 

[eyesonlybob]

listen to chet, his itr powered eg owns.

 

[GSRCRXsi]

Originally posted by eyesonlybob@Jun 20 2003, 05:12 PM
listen to chet, his itr powered eg owns.

i still want to see numbers. i have a lightened flywheel and from what i understand he doesnt. i get 30 mpg on my b18c1 and dont feel any torque difference.......

 

[E_SolSi]

i looked around for a while to try and find a test done on a honda .... but couldnt find any
so heres one done on an M3

the stock clutch / (26lb) flywheel was replaced with "Active Autowerke's high-performance clutch/flywheel package consists of a pressure plate, release bearing, clutch disc 12-lb flywheel and bolts."

But, another noticeable difference was the loss of some low-end torque. The car seemed to rev more quickly but not until higher up in the rev range. Off the line, the car wouldn't pull like it used to when I dumped the clutch at 3500 rpm. The inertia generated from the heavier stock flywheel couldn't be reproduced with this lightweight unit for an out-of-the-hole launch. But, once the revs climbed, the needle was noticeably quicker, at least in the first few gears.

In first gear, sure enough, there was a loss of torque down low. The new 12-lb zinger gave the M3 a maximum loss of 8.2 lb-ft of torque and 5.7 bhp at 3660 rpm. The gap between the two curves steadily decreased to zero until they equaled at 5500 rpm. At this rev range the Active flywheel took over, with a maximum gain of 8.5 lb-ft of torque and 10.8 bhp at 6700 rpm. In addition, the car revved 120 rpm more than it did in the baseline run.

let's take a look at second gear. Surprisingly, up until 4700 rpm, the lightened flywheel maintained torque with only a maximum loss of 2.4 lb-ft and 1.9 bhp at 4000 rpm to the stock flywheel. After 4700 rpm, the flywheel showed its advantage with a constant gain to redline, revealing a maximum gain of 4.4 lb-ft of torque at 5500 rpm and 4.7 bhp at 6500 rpm.

Third gear runs were tested but yielded no significant gains or losses.

In any case, it's safe to say the Active lightweight flywheel has both advantages and disadvantages over the stock unit.

Disadvantages: First, Active's flywheel did make some clattering noise while idling or under load at very low rpm, and especially if the A/C was turned on. Accelerate from 1500 rpm in fifth gear (something I do not recommend), and you'll really see what I mean by "clatter"! The single-mass lightweight flywheel cannot absorb torsional vibration from the crankshaft as effectively as the dual-mass stock unit (for this reason it is not recommended to use a flywheel and underdrive pulley upgrade together). Second, you will lose some low-end torque--especially off the line--as our dyno charts have shown. And last, the boys in Munich chose a heavier, dual-mass flywheel also to make it a bit easier to drive smoothly around town.

Advantages: First, the loss in low-end torque and horsepower is significantly made up in the upper rev range. Second, revs go up and down quickly, aiding in a quicker and easier heel-and-toe downshift. Third, there's a 14-lb loss in your vehicle's weight, which was more weight loss than the car had with the new exhaust. Fourth, the throttle response is greatly improved over stock. Finally, I really like that little "zing" noise!

Which should you choose? Consider in round one (first gear) that we have somewhat of a tie, assuming we want both low- and high-end torque--we win some and we lose some. But, that 10.8-bhp gain at 6700 rpm does sound appealing, especially knowing the difference would be a bit larger had there been more rpm available from the M3. In round two (second gear), the Active Autowerke aluminum flywheel made up its low-end torque loss and still bounced back with more wheel horsepower to play with. And what do you think would have happened had we tested this flywheel under our previous, cooler baseline conditions? Would it be safe to say 1 or 2 more hp?

heres a link to the full article
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/...0109ec_projbmw/

 

[MaaseyRacer]

CRX 5 lug conversion:

Thanks to my buddy Eric for this:

The reason I did it on my CR-X was to be able to fit TypeR rotors in
conjunction with Spoon Sports AL 4pot calipers - that's why I did it... Most
of the time I just had 5lug 15" black steel wheels and no one ever noticed I
had BIG brakes up front.

You do need to be relatively mechanically inclined to do this. If you don't
know the first thing about brakes I would avoid doing this - that's just my
advice to you. It isn't "hard" per se but you do need to know what's up
cause brakes are after all pretty important stuff....

It's a relatively easy job to do provided you can find a good machinist (not
THAT hard to find).
_ For the Rear (easy!) get complete IntegraR trailing arms (w/ everything:
rotor/hub/disc/caliper) it will just bolt on without any modifications
needed at all.
_ Get yourself an Integra 1" master cylinder and brake booster - it will
also bolt on expect for one thing. The CR-X's master cylinder has two 10mm
fittings for the hard brake lines coming out of it while the Integra has one
10mm and one 12mm fitting. You can't just order the fitting by itself from
Acura it comes with the portion of hard AL line it is attached to - not a
big deal as it costs only like $25 or so.... The alternative is to find a
crashed Integra in the junkyard and get the fitting there along with master
cylinder and brake booster... To cut the fitting off the old line and
properly put it on the new line you will need a hard Al line flare tool -
easily available at harbor freight, pep boys, home depot, etc.... what it
does is that it first cuts the line in a nice clean way, then with the flare
tool you stretch out the end of the line - giving it kind of a lip - that
way the fitting when it tightens holds the line tight against the master
cylinder - does that make sense?
_ Also get the proportioning valve off of any Integra with rear discs (a
rear disc setup has a different front to rear brake bias than a drum setup)
_ For the front, here's where the machinist comes in handy. You need to find
'90-1 Civic EX sedan front knuckles (they HAVE to be 90-1 Civic EX sedan or
it will not work) - then order new hub bearings for a '90-1 Civic EX sedan
from Honda. Get yourself some IntegraR front hubs from Acura. Once you've
got everything you are going to take the front hubs and the Civic EX hub
bearings to the machinist of your choice and you are going to explain to
them that what you want is for them to turn the hubs so that they fit inside
of the hub bearings you are bringing them. Does that make sense?

For front calipers (this is the fun part) you can now use: NSX (2piston),
IntegraR (single piston) = CRV = Odyssey. For front rotors you use IntegraR
ones.

That's it.

-e

PS: I was very active in SCCA and NASA road racing and ran the CR-X as such
at Laguna Seca/Sears Point/Thunderhill/Buttonwillow and never had any
problems....

if you want more info pm me and i will hook you up with this guys e-mail he is awesome...

 

[kOOlrean]

Thanx every body for the post..i am learnin alot....some what confused by the arguing but still learning.!!!!



type R ...its almost here!!!!!!

 

[bossman032]

First of all get your wiring done.

then you can drop any motor in G.

I will be running a type R soon