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Cutting/Buffing and Cleaning

Discussion in 'Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics' started by Matts96HB, Sep 22, 2008.

  1. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    So, by the end of the week my Civic will be painted.. My questions:

    -As far as cutting and buffing, I have a few concerns. Last time I painted my car the clear didn't come out so I ended up cutting and buffing the shit out of it. The result was swirl marks in the sunlight and man it was ugly. Was this due to the wrong equipment/method used? Or because the paint was only about 3 days old?

    -IF I have to cut/buff this time around, what would be the correct way/stuff to do it?

    -My new paint is going to be damn near show quality. I don't want it getting any blemishes in any way, whats the best way to wash my car daily? I was thinking one of those MR CLEAN wash n wax things.. that way I'm not rubbing on the car with a towel or even a microfiber cloth to clean it.. Thoughts?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    1 person likes this.
  3. squeals

    squeals New Member

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    one word of advice, no Autobell Car Wash. i work there and i wouldn't recommend bringing in a car with an aftermarket paint job. when you buffed your old clear, what speed did you buff it at?
     
  4. squeals

    squeals New Member

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    one word of advice, no Autobell Car Wash. i work there and i wouldn't recommend bringing in a car with an aftermarket paint job. when you buffed your old clear, what speed did you buff it at?
     
  5. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Thanks for the help man, I'll be sure to check that out. +rep to you for the sp00n feeding lol.
     
  6. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Well, I used a Harbor Freight special.. and the speed was typically set on about 3.. And it goes all the way up to 6 I believe. So about half speed. Which I think is where I might have gone wrong.. But not sure.
     
  7. theglasshatch

    theglasshatch autobody tech

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    i use a 3 stage system 1 cutter 2 buffer 3 polish but you need 3 seperate buffing pads one fome......your color sanding right?
     
  8. theglasshatch

    theglasshatch autobody tech

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    the 3 buffing compounds are made to go with each other so dont just go buy something if you want to know ask. i'll find the part numbers
     
  9. boostin4fun

    boostin4fun Boosted ls/vtec ohh yeah!

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    I do bodywork and paintwork and this is the method I use with excellent results. I usually can get my clear to lay out really nice so I start with some 1200 grit paper working my way up to 2000 grit untill it is nice and flat and no dust specs are left behind. You should invest in some 3m products because they work really well. You will need to get a 3m compounding pad and a polishing pad. Also pick up some "3m Perfect it III" rubbing compound and machine glaze. Use the white compounding pad with the rubbing compound and buff untill all sanding scratches are gone. Then switch to the black polishing pad and buff with the machine glaze untill all swirl marks are gone and nothing but a great shine is left over. Then you can use mequiar's polish and wax to lock the shine in for a long time to come if you got some quality clear.
     
  10. austin20110

    austin20110 New Member

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    Yea your paint isnt really dry for like a a few days i think... and hte swirl marks can be gotten rid of with a good foam pad and some good polish the stuff i use is prowax.com's #1 polish but you might even need some duz all or some swirl eliminator i dont like the swirl eliminator because its SUPER dusty.
     
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