D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

[93civicracer]

I got the money for a D15b vtec engine/trans/ecu but I got a question before I throw out $150 extra.

I've been reading that vtec is bad for boost, why, and is it true? So I don't know if I should keep my d15b7 ecu and run without vtec and save $150 or go vtec and boost. I'm only looking for a tune of around 200whp so I don't have to up internals.

I won't be boosting it any time soon tho, I mean after the swap I gotta figure out why the coolant isn't circulating, have the a/c checked out, interior work done, realign the hood, minor dents fixed/painted, install my radio, and well yea...needs a little work and I don't make much money.

So could it be best for me to get the p08 anyway and run vtec while I do the rest of the work and save up for a turbo kit then disable the vtec?

 

[chrono404]

Many on this forum have boosted there vtec engines. I am no expert, but I have not heard anything wrong about boosting vtecs. I read that its not cost effective to boost an ITR over getting the cheaper gsr and boosting that.
If I was you I would go vtec then boost. But then again this is coming from someone who is rolling on vtec already.

 

[K2e2vin]

VTEC works fine with boost. Probably 75% of the boosted Hondas out there are VTECs.

And on the cost reason. VTEC isn't as noticeble on boosted setups so it would be cheaper to stick with a non-VTEC head which would also work well.

 

[93civicracer]

Yea but either way I'll have a vtec head because I've checked around locally I can't find another b7 anywhere lol so I'm going with the cheapest on the big sites the d15b. Boost was one reason I wanted to stay away from the p08 but another reason was because of having to wire up vtec I have no clue how to do the wiring but now that I think about it I think I have to wire up the o2 and another sensor or 2. Shit I still gotta ask hmotors if they have a d15b OBD-1 the one I nearly bought could've been OBD-2. D15B's come standard with LSD tranny's don't they?

 

[K2e2vin]

The wiring is simple and well documented(just search). You do not need to add an extra sensor unless you got the OBDII engine; which also uses a different ECU.

Hell, if you wanted to; you can convert the P06 ECU to VTEC and just install a P08 chip.

Not all D15B's came with LSDs. In fact, most of them were automatics IIRC.

 

[93civicracer]

I heard you have to do something to the o2 wires with obd-1 to obd-1 same swap because JDM motors don't have the same emissions standards. That and I heard something about the sensors on the throttle body have to be wired...I'm not sure but I know I've read that d15b7 to d15b vtec is NOT just plug and play and not just the vtec wires either.

 

[K2e2vin]

No sensors on the TB needs to be wired. If anything, it's just the VTEC wires and the D15B VTEC doesn't have an O2 sensor heater. The O2 wires are already there; the P08 just won't turn the heater on because it doesn't have the circuit. The swap is pretty much like a D16Z6 swap.

 

[93civicracer]

So you're saying I won't be able to use the heater? It gets to around 20-30 degrees here in the Texas winter. Oh well fuck a/c that's what jackets and wifebeaters are for.

 

[K2e2vin]

No, I'm talking about the O2 heater; it heats the element in the O2 sensor. It's there for emissions reason(helps the O2 get up to temperature for more accurate reading). If it's not hooked up(ie you use a one-wire O2 on a P06 or P28), it'll just throw a code for O2 Sensor Heater. On the P08, it won't even look for it.

The O2 heater is not connected with the engine heating/cooling system. If your coolant gets hot; then you can have heat.

 

[93civicracer]

Hey another question...this IS my first swap so I've been reading and re-reading the engine removal procedures in my Haynes manual and I'm confused about the clutch release cylinder (slave cylinder?) removal. The bleeding, actually. Could I just cover up the fluid line and cylinder so the fluid doesn't escape or what? The bleeding seems confusing and also when I get the d15b will it have it's own clutch release cylinder? With fluid? Please help I'm confused but I don't have any doubts.


EDIT: Then I won't have heat my a/c is basically dead..That's part of the reason my b7 went bad because it was running hot and my dumbass ran the shit out of it anyway. Coolant isn't circulating I've gotta get that fixed asap right after my swap. Neither of my fans work either and the radiator's brand new so my a/c just blows air. SUCKS ASS. And I have no idea why it won't circulate..the thermostat looks good, hoses are fine, waterpump's new I just don't get it.

 

[K2e2vin]

You can keep the slave cylinder on there. Bleeding it is pretty simple, just sounds complicated. Whether it comes with it or not will depend on if you're getting the transmission with it and whether they include it(in other words: ask). No, it will not come with fluid in it. The hydraulic system goes all the way to the clutch master cylinder.

The heating system is separate from the A/C system. Again, if you're thinking about the O2 heater as the heating for your car; it's completely different. For heat in the cabin, coolant is just diverted from the engine into a heat exchanger in the air ducting. If it's not circulating, make sure there's no air pocket and the system has been bled properly. Also, try filling from the top radiator hose.

 

[93civicracer]

I'm ordering the trans with it but even if it doesn't come with clutch cylinders I can put my old ones on since they're both d-series right? And I think it's weird that it takes brake fluid.

And I understand the heat in the cabin comes from the engine coolant but I don't know jack sheeit about a/c systems I'll probably have that looked at by a shop right after I get my swap done since it's my only car and I don't have the time to learn it myself I gotta get this on the road.

++rep for the help man appreciate it really!

 

[K2e2vin]

Yes, it should swap over. The clutch system works pretty much the same way the brake system does; so brake fluid makes sense("clutch fluid" would be the same thing). Just thing of it as hydraulic fluid to save confusion.

As for your A/C, when the A/C is turned on does the A/C pulley spin(look at the middle part)? If yes, then you probably just need refrigerant or there's a leak in the system. I wouldn't worry too much about A/C around this time though.

 

[93civicracer]

You know I looked over the haynes manual again and I think I got the bleeding the clutch hydraulic system now. You just get someone to hold down the clutch and then put the hose into the fluid and have them slowly release it right?

 

[ReDCiViCSi]

I'm getting ready to do the same swap, ordering it tomorrow. The stock 92 Civic DX tranny is hydraulic i'm guessing or cable???idk....im still a little new.. =\

 

[93civicracer]

Yea it's hydraulic and I just posted on your thread too LOL. If you're confused about anything buy a Haynes Honda civic manual (if you dont got one) dude that thing will show you how to strip that car down to every last bolt. Trust me it's great stuff.

 

[ReDCiViCSi]

I'm going to buy one this week!!! Yes i heard about them an it's all been good things. I know i just replied to your post on my thread haha.

i'll send you a friend list invitation too. that cool?

 

[93civicracer]

Sure

 

[ReDCiViCSi]

anybody know of a good turbo i should get for the d15b vtec??? and is it possible to put a turbo on that engine with, intake, headers, exhaust to make 200whp??

 

[93civicracer]

Just buy a greddy or turbonetics kit. Turbo Kits for Acura, BMW, Ford, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Lexus & VW or you can fabricate your own. T25 bb and t3/t4's are good for civics. High flow cat converter, cat-back exhaust, and the turbo kit comes with it's own manifold so you don't need headers. Then tune it at a shop and it's possible to tune a stock D-series up to 250 whp if you do it right.