D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

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besides being generally stupid what did this kid do to get banned three times?
 
Guess what...my swap finally arrived at the shop! Brought my ecu home and I'm towing my car up there tomorrow to start work. My shop teacher gave me his cell # said I can call up anytime while he's at the school and work on my swap :). Just called and scheduled to have my ride towed up there tomorrow early morning so I can get started :D:D
 
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Definitely. Why don't you just use this one?

I think my y8 head is severely warped, so I'm looking into a full on motor swap now, and since I'm being kind of lazy, who did you go through for your motor?
 
Just got back from school. LOL I had the car towed at 7:45 am and hitched a ride to school with the tow truck driver. Pushed it into the shop and only had time to pull off the hood then the teacher made us all go inside to watch some gay ass UTI presentation so I only had like 30 minutes to work on it. I got the fluids drained, wiring undone, coolant lines detached, and I was in the middle of looking for the right size wrenches to relieve the fuel pressure when I was screwed by the bell. Lol, tomorrow I plan to at least have that fuel pressure relieved, everything disconnected, axels popped out and shift linkage undone. Looks like it's gonna be a pretty easy straightforward swap.

By the way I opened the packaging for the d15b vtec and I must say it's BEAUTIFUL! It looks brand fucking new! Shiny new black paint on the valve cover with no scratches, bright red spark plug wires it looks amazing not even any numbers written the valve cover to mess it up either :D:D. Specializing in JDM-USDM Engines & Parts...hmotorsonline.com hooked me up. The transmission came bolted onto the engine. Just gotta transfer the throttle cable, exhaust manifold, and some wiring from my old engine and possibly the starter (didn't check for one, and it wasn't in the description on hmotors site). Looking good for now sorry will bring camera tomorrow.
 
By the way..on the axels. So tomorrow when I pop them out I can just do just that? Pop them out and move the whole axle/hub assemblies out of the way or do I have to remove the hub and steering assembly?
 
just take out the driveaxles completely...set em aside

you can leave the steering knuckle but dont let it hang by the tie rod or anything...
 
Thanks. Couldn't get much done today but I did get started on the shift linkage (got the extension rod off) and started on hubs. Got the damper forks off and I'm going to disconnect the lower control arms from the steering knuckle and let that hang so I can pull out the axels.

On the shift linkage...I got the extension rod off easily but the other one...

The "bitch pin" or spring/wrist pin whatever wasn't even there! I slid back the boot, the clip was missing, and there's a little 8mm hole there that I shoved a small screwdriver all the way through. I guess the pin isn't necessary since I've driven the car like that a few times before the b7 pooped. It's even clogged with grease n shit it looks like it's been that way for a long time. Is this serious?

Tomorrow I'll have enough time to finish my swap I think so as soon as I get the shift linkage all the way undone I'll get those axels out and swap motors before any damage to hanging steering knuckle can be done.

ALSO to take the lower control arm disconnect from steering knuckle it's the nut on the bottom below the brake right? It looks like there's some kind of spring underneith or something and as hard as I've tried, I can NOT get that nut loose. Any advice?

Thanks
 
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so the pin that was supposed to hold your shift linkage on the trans selector shaft was missing? nothing suprising... and are you talking about the lower balljoint nut?(this would be below the brakes) it should have a cotter pin through the hole in the balljoint stud. thats why you prolly can't free the nut
 
Cotter Pin = that little tiny paperclip-like thing? It looks like it secures the bolt I'm trying to detach the nut from. So I just pull that little thing out then I can unbolt the lower control arm from the steering knuckle and pop the axel out?

And I should be fine without the pin right? Thanks rep to you!
 
yea it kinda looks like a paper clip...thats the cotter pin. just take some pliers and yank it out and you should be able to undo the nut. you have the tool to pop the balljoint outta the control arm righ? as far as the pin in the linkage goes...your gonna need another one..otherwise the linkage will come off the trans. just get another one..i think theyre called barrel pins,hardware stores would have one
 
I'm pretty sure my shop teacher has a ball joint splitter somewhere. As far as driving without the spring pin, I never had a problem when I used to drive it. My teacher said there's something special about those pins tho...like how to remove them or something.
 
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