D15B Vtec swap/boost/vtec/?

[HATCHET_HONDA]

when you were driving before, the pin was in and fell out...so it was on there pretty snug already. thats why you didnt have a problem but once its loosened it aint gonna stay back on. the pin in my linkage was gone too..i just replaced it with another barrel pin. itll work fine but you could get another one from honda maybe i guess. removing them just requres a center punch or something similar

 

[93civicracer]

See the bitch pin looks like it's just a hole or something ???

 

[93civicracer]

So then if there IS no pin in my linkage, I can just pull the linkage off? Or unbolt something else to get it off? I don't know what to do for that rod off the tranny after the pin is out.

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

yep...thats the one. theres a lil circlip is supposed to snap over it to keep it from falling out. did you just take this pic recently? it looks as tho the pin is still there..yeah it has a hole in the middle...and its split on one side...it squezzes together when you drive into the shaft

 

[93civicracer]

Well you see there's a complete write up with pics at D-series.org thread it's like 3 years old for this exact swap and I just used their pic but mine looks EXACTLY like that. The clip is gone and there's a groove for it. So THAT'S WHY I was able to stick a slim screwdriver all the way through eh....the pin is more of a cylinder almost? I think I get it now why you need exactly an 8 mm punch. Thanks a whole lot man for real we'll see what turns up tomorrow! I'll prolly getto rig another clip for it or something but it seems like the clip's been gone for a while. Not to mention my car's been through at least 2 motor swaps that I know of before I bought it.

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

yea..its like a cylinder shape..you were sticking the screwdriver thru the middle of the pin. a center punch a lil bigger than the center of the pin should drive it out no prob... the shift linkage should come off with a lil wiggling back and forth..good luck dude

 

[93civicracer]

Got out school early due to finals so here's today's update:

Took out the cotter pins, busted off the ball joint (Was a fuckin BITCH). My shop teacher's ball joint splitter wouldn't even fit so we couldn't use it so I ended up hammering at it like crazy. Then I put a prybar in there and after relentless hammering, I wound up, and gave it everything I had and it popped off. Did the same to the other side and removed the axels completely. Then I got my shop teacher to punch out the spring pin holding the linkage up since he won't let me touch his personal tools so he did it for me. Axels and linkage done.

All that's left to do is remove the transmission support bracket and undo the mounts and yank out the b7! Then drop in the d15b hook it up and change the ecu IF I could find out how to unbolt it from the kick panel! I still can't find the bolts/screws.

I'm heading back to the shop in about an hour here to see if I can finish up . More updates later today SORRY for not having the pics this time I WILL bring a camera! Even tho most of the work is done...lol. Thanks to EVERYONE here for the help that made my swap possible.

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

sounds like its coming along...as far as the ecu goes just pull up the carpet and look at the kick panel..there should be 10mm nuts holding it to the floor. i dinno why you cant find them..theyre righ there...and what did you hammer?? the balljoint stud or the seperator tool?

 

[93civicracer]

I'll keep looking for that ecu and I was hammering at the prybar that I put between the lower control arm and the steering knuckle.

Anyways updates for earlier today:

I unbolted the exhaust manifold from the cat and unbolted the transmission bracket and then I attached the hoist. Problem was I decided to try to start with the transmission mount. Took that off then it was all uneven and shit so I put it back on, raised the car up on the lift, and undid the rear mount from below. Then I noticed the A/C condensor had to go because there was a huge bolt in the way of the fender, so I removed it. Didn't have that much time so that's where I'm at now.

I believe all I have left to do now is undo the last 2 mounts and pull it . Gonna be a BITCH hooking up the d15b tho cuz I forgot to label the wires and hoses I just got in such a rush and started unbolting/pulling shit.

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

i see.....hmmm you got a load leveler for the hoist?? itll help you remove the engine from an angle. and yeah that condensers gotta go ..the engine will hit it comin out. as far as the vacumm lines and hoses and stuff its not that hard..just take your time and youll releaixe where they go on the new engine. post some pics dude!!

 

[93civicracer]

Alright man. Got my camera right on the table so I'll remember to take it . And no, I don't have a leveler, I'll just have to try and get it out without it.

I just wish I had more time than like an hour a day to work on it! I could have had this done in 1 day if I had the whole day. I'll bet if I could start all over with a new swap I could do it in 4 hours...5 max. And the funny thing is I've never done anything more than an oil change before starting this swap. Guess ya'll weren't playing when you said 5th gen swaps are easy!

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

yea pretty much a bolt in deal...and more than an hour to do work to it would help..

so when you gonna be done? a moth or so? lol....i keed..i keed

 

[93civicracer]

Just got back from shop here's the update:

D15B Vtec is IN!!!!! It took forever for us to get the motor in because for one, the o2 sensor was a B-I-T-C-H to take off. The 1-wire from the d15b was easy but it took all 3 of us to break off the nut for the 4-wire sensor on my d15b7. It took us about an hour to do that looking for tools and what not. We kept the b7 manifold. Then since we didn't have a leveler it took a long time to properly lower the motor to the bay we had to set it back on the ground twice to adjust the steel lines and get the angle right. By then it was time to go, so we got the motor bolted in and called it a day. Tomorrow we should be done, teacher's allowing us to go in at 9 in the morning and pretty much have all day. The wiring is confusing though there's wires on the left that should be on the right and vice-versa. We'll do the axels and shift linkage first and put the wheels back on then get the wiring straight. I'll do the vtec wires later.

By the way I found the ecu....I was looking under the dash. LOL so I pulled back the carpet and found it that'll be the last thing I do and finish up the swap. Hopefully tomorrow.

 

[93civicracer]

Are the 2 Vtec wires the green/black wires?

 

[93civicracer]

Is the Vtec the only thing that needs to be wired for my swap to work? Do I have to do ANY additional wiring? Like knock sensor etc?

 

[93civicracer]

Help!

Update for today....

Didn't get as far as I wanted to..when I first put in the d15b vtec I used the harness that came with it because it wasn't cut but it didn't work out. So today we finished the suspension/axels/shift linkage part of the swap but the electrical didn't work out to well. So we pulled the motor back out and put on the b7 harness and put the 4-wire o2 sensor back on. The wires went on fine, except I think I'm missing the IAT (Is that the one on the throttle body with that black bracket?) sensor or whatever goes there. Everything else was there. So we dropped the motor back in and tomorrow we're going to hook it all up and see what happens.

Need some help...

What is that sensor at the throttle body and is it necessary?
What about the 4-wire o2 sensor? Do I need to convert it to 1-wire to run the po8?
Also the IM on the d15b vtec looks like it's missing a hole for a vacuum line? Should I use the IM from the b7 or just snip the line and plug it since it looks like the d15b doesn't need it?

 

[daveholiday]

About the last one:
I'm not 100% sure, but I think it may have something to do with emissions. I know that the OBX intake mani's, people saying that they don't work with the si's because they're missing a couple things for emissions. Everyone also says to use the usdm equivalent parts as far as manifolds, blah blah, so my guess is to use the b7 one, if it'll work.

Let someone else put something in on that advice though, just to back it up.

 

[93civicracer]

If it's only there for emissions reasons then I'm not worried. They don't test for emissions around here . And I kept the USDM exhaust manifold because as I've read, the d15b's manifold doesn't fit the cat.

But I still need help with the rest like the o2 sensor what should I do with that and the sensor on the throttle body...everything in my last post.

 

[93civicracer]

bump for help on questions 3 posts ago?

 

[HATCHET_HONDA]

Update for today....

Didn't get as far as I wanted to..when I first put in the d15b vtec I used the harness that came with it because it wasn't cut but it didn't work out. So today we finished the suspension/axels/shift linkage part of the swap but the electrical didn't work out to well. So we pulled the motor back out and put on the b7 harness and put the 4-wire o2 sensor back on. The wires went on fine, except I think I'm missing the IAT (Is that the one on the throttle body with that black bracket?) sensor or whatever goes there. Everything else was there. So we dropped the motor back in and tomorrow we're going to hook it all up and see what happens.

Need some help...

What is that sensor at the throttle body and is it necessary?
What about the 4-wire o2 sensor? Do I need to convert it to 1-wire to run the po8?
Also the IM on the d15b vtec looks like it's missing a hole for a vacuum line? Should I use the IM from the b7 or just snip the line and plug it since it looks like the d15b doesn't need it?

OK..here we go...

the p08 uses a 1 wire o2. you shoulda went with the p28 cause it uses a 4 wire o2. but p08 will work...just use a 1 wire sensor

the TB sensor your talking about,,, is it ON the TB?? cause that would be the TPS sensor... yes you need this. there should be a plug on the harness for it. itll be yellowish(not bright yellow) in color with 3 wires green yellow red.

vaccum lines, they can be TEEed together if theres no spot on the mani for it

hope it helps