D15b2 - d15b7 - b18a1

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block says b7. i think thats why i dont trust the guy on anything. he said it was swapped, only thing different is the block. its still pretty much a d15b7. anyways, so back to step 1. i am preparing to do a dpfi to mpfi conversion, after that how do i setup for a b series swap? non vtec. obd1 for tuning purposes.
 
convert to mpfi and obd1...then you will need swap mounts,shift linkage,axles,ecuand s ome other small things
 
Also, just curious, which direction would you guys go? buy the car and slowly build the engine or buy the engine swap and start building it?
 
personally I kind of do both, I slightly build the engine that's in the car, but I also build a better engine on the side to drop in for when I'm done being slow lol
 
my buddy owns it right now. it was mine but i only bought it for him then he faulted on payments to the guy so i am thinking about buying it.
 
or try to trade him something for it, because I only paid 500 for mine and it was in pretty good shape and ran like a dream.
 
his buddy has a built ls head with all skunk2 valvetrain for sale for 300.oo but im gonna try and talk him down to 200.oo because he didnt build the engine with a torque wrench which scares me : /
 
if he can prove that it's all skunk2 then go for it, saves you money in the long run, but if he can't..at least check it out to see if any of it is after market
 
ok, so i got some even better news. 89 crx si with a d16a6 all blacked out on coilovers and fat fives. yellow interior (dash, center console, steering wheel, etc) with oil pressure guage, water temp gauge and voltage gauge for... wait for it.... 850.oo! ready for the bad part? he lost the keys to it. the title is clear in his name so it isnt stolen but i have to buy a new steering column. or maybe a push button start but i dont wanna be ricey. everyone was dogging me for wanting to go push button. why is that so bad? anyways, back to the point, so it is already mpfi, but is it obd1?
 
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