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d15b2 or b16a?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Zero2sixtyin3, Oct 13, 2009.

  1. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    ok well i have the d15b2 in my dx hatch. my question is with basic bolt ons would the d15 be a better choice over getting the full b16 swap? im just thinking on terms of the fact that the d15 is in my car already but im wondering based on cost. i can get a full swap for around 1500 with everything, where as would i have more power if i put 1500 into my current engine?

    im leaning towards the b16 but i want some second opinions. thanks for reading.
     
  2. ZCpowerdSI

    ZCpowerdSI New Member

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    Get rid of the d15b2. no good. B16 it. even if you boosted the d15 you cant make as much power as a b16 unless you build the engine. they have like 70whp, and boosting it and building it would cost more than the full b16 swap. you can get a full b16a swap for around $1500-$1800
     
  3. Bobby17772

    Bobby17772 New Member

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    actually they have about 90! haha. Personally I would go LS but that's just me, you can find them a lot cheaper and more common. but you will have to convert it over to mpfi before you do any swap.

    It is possible to see numbers out of the D15b2, you could probably get it to about 200-220 hp for 1500, mini me swap, port and polish, turbo, basic bolt ons, and an amazing tune. of course you could do more but thats just basics.

    The B16 depending on what model you get it has about 150 hp, for that you may have to convert it over to obd1 (correct me if I'm wrong) model depending. for that you would have to get the different motor mounts, axles, ecu, harness, and trans...if you're not already getting that with the swap. But this would probably be the more reliable choice seeing that it's got 50% more power and it's still stock.

    Or for even cheaper you could but a DOHC ZC engine and it's a direct swap and they are pretty good engines for d-series.

    It may sound stupid but when it comes to engines you can't go wrong when it comes to building..if you think a head at least. if you build it and it breaks, rebuild it, if you can't rebuild it, swap it to something better.
     
  4. ZCpowerdSI

    ZCpowerdSI New Member

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    yes. i recomend the dohc zc. thats what i have and it goes good with a light weight crank pulley, ported and polished head, pace setter header, and a cold air intake.
     
  5. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    well i do know that the b16a aka b16a1 is a direct swap if i get the one from the 88-91 model jdm sir civic. and it has 160hp and i think around 110 torque. i am thinking that might be the best way to go (with the b16) i want to do the jdm front end so basically my car would be what japan had but alot faster after i turbo it and lhd. anyone know of the best cams to get when it comes to boosting the b16, going to do a t3/t4 hybrid most likely. still wanting streetable performance, not planning on anything more than 350whp but then again im not totally sure what kind of numbers the b16 can put out being built and boosted. i am going to do internals though since it will be my DD.
     
  6. dtob

    dtob New Member

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    Stock cams would work fine, an upgrade isn't necessary but GSR cams or ITR cams would be a good upgrade and cheaper than the aftermarket counterparts.
     
  7. ZCpowerdSI

    ZCpowerdSI New Member

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    oh yeah, i wathinkin about the d15b1 its about 70ish, and the d15b2 is about 92hp
     
  8. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    if i was you id swap an ls in it and boost the ls...like bobby said.
     
  9. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    so hat is so amazing about an ls swap exactly? aside from the fact that its more time consuming due to wiring conversion and such? gotta remember its a dd for me so i cant have it down for too long with wiring and i dont exactly have my money tree in full bloom around this time of the year. the leaves tend to start falling around this time ;)
     
  10. Bobby17772

    Bobby17772 New Member

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    because the b18 series has a ton of potnetial, thats why I can't wait to get mine. I'm not knocking the d16a in anyway because that's a great engine as well but if you were going to swap in a b16a then you would already have the mounts for an ls and it would be a lot cheaper. If you talk to a guy on here, I think his name it monotech...something like that. he can make you a harness, and if you wanted to run it obd0 you could, all you would need to get is just the obd0 dizzy, and the right ecu. and you could probably do it cheaper then the b16a but it really just comes down on what you want to do
     
  11. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    because the LS would be the same wiring as the b16a..you would still have to convert to mpfi and possibly obd1..and the LS is the next easiest thing than swapping your existing motor..and then later when you have ,oney and want power there is a slew of parts
     
  12. philyphreak2127

    philyphreak2127 Back in the Game

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    if you wanna keep the b2 a cheap way to add a good amount of power would be to find a z6 head, y8 intake manifold w/ injectors, a cai, full exhaust. run the p28 ecu and have it tuned. you can with the right parts put down almost 150 horses believe it or not. If you wanna go further you could add a cam, port the head, adjustable cam gear to advance timing a bit, lightweight crank pulley, and lightweight flywheel.
     
  13. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    ^I'm living that statement (almost)
     
  14. Zero2sixtyin3

    Zero2sixtyin3 89 EF Hatch D15B2 w/ 5spd

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    ok so for now i am going to build a d15b1 i picked up for a hell of a deal. like 60 bucks kind of deal lol. it has everything but the intake & exhaust manifolds, and dizzy. i want to check my local junkyards an upulls first before i check ebay and CL and the forums. i have a few shops in the area that i can go to for tuning and alot are offering decent prices too and that includes dyno when i get to that point.


    lets make these questions into a list to make it simpler.

    am i going to need an obd0 to obd1 jumper?

    what does the z6 head come in factory? what about the y8 intake mani?

    should i go with an aftermarket header and for what model or motor so i can find one?

    is mpfi required and/or recommended with the swap? anyone or site that has the dpfi-mpfi harness already done?

    can i use my stock dizzy?

    what cam should i run? like brand and stage?

    where is the best place to find the cam gear, crank pulley, and a good clutch kit w/ light flywheel? i plan to get the head ported and such when i find it.

    and lastly is there anything else i could do to get a bit more power out of this motor aside from turbo? but without going high compression because a turbo is an option later on.
     
  15. shadyfewcivic

    shadyfewcivic New Member

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    92 4dr civic ferio engine swap

    hae guys i hava 1992 honda civic ferio with a man d15b vtec...... i was hoping to get advice on wich engine to put in and sum quick easy mods like injectors to boost power, and id like a drop in engine no modifying required....... cheers to all dat help me with this ???
     
  16. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    there is no replacing displacement, either nut up and change motor mounts to whatever you choose or go hasport, ls swap is cheap and plenty more powerfull, i mean if i HAD to stick d series it would be the DOHC zc, only thing good for a d series is putting it in neutral and a brick on the gas and see how long it last, been in your position, and its not worth building it bud, waste of money and you will be dissapointed, go big or go home
     
  17. jdmLife

    jdmLife I KILL V8s

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    z6 is out of the 92-95 si eg and y8's can be found in 96-00 ex civics as far as i kno but B series is the way to go D's are throw away motors but if u insist on D then at least get a dohc zc or jdm d15b
     
  18. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    well said with much less words than mine haha
     
  19. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    My b16a REX, lovvve it
    [​IMG]
     
  20. philyphreak2127

    philyphreak2127 Back in the Game

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    if you're gonna go with an obd-1 block, I'd personally recomend going with the z6 head to and not fool with mixing the obd's. I did a b7/y8 mini me only because I already had a good head out of my previous motor. I just needed the block.

    I'm running a zex cam for the n/a setup. they offer forced induction and nitrous cams as well as most companys do. the stage 2 should be a good streetable setup from most parts companys with many having a slightly lopey idle, yet offering good power gains. If you want to go big budget I'd go bisimoto. I almost considered it for my build because the claims of 15% over stock...however it depends on your overall goals with the motor. some stage 2 setups may require or suggest you upgrade the rest of the valvetrain with the cam.

    As for the header you may as well go aftermarket most solid options out there are getting pretty low in price these days unless you're again talking about bisimoto products. I went with pacesetter, but a couple other brands to look at would be dc, or megan.

    I think someone on this site had a write up for the dpfi to mpfi conversion. check out unorthodox for the pulleys but I have heard replacing the crank pulley is a bad idea. unless you can find a pulley that replaces the harmonic balancer....correct me if I'm wrong someone....
    Good luck man. I'm in to see the build.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2010
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