d15b2 potential
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aux
New Member
damn, yeah.. but ive read a lot of posts where ppl are saying that they arent that bad,a lot of folks seem to think expensive coilovers are overrated, and the cheap ones last about as much as they cost, so about $80 for a year. is that how it works? if thats how it works thats fine. now, if they are going to break or something before a years time, then no way.. the other option ive found, is a set of new skunk2 lowering springs, for about 150-ish. anyway, i made the mistake of buying one of those $40 steering wheel / hub kits, and the damn hub stripped out about a month after installation. it wasnt the tightest fit in the world, either. i noticed it getting worse about a week b4 it stripped. luckily for me, i wasnt driving when it stripped. if i had taken a corner hard, it would have stripped out and possibly costme my life and maybe others. installing aftermarket steering wheel - Toyota Forums :: Toyota Nation
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aux
New Member
lol yeah i dont think i could trust something that cheap not to break, honestly i dont understand how you can get/why its available, something like coilovers for such a low price. if they arent worth a damn they shouldent even b made, like that steering wheel i had. i think ill go with the 2" skunk2 springs instead, and fix my camber with i guess longer bolts and some sort of washers, if thats possible. since all a coilover is is a lowering spring thats adjustable, i guess theres no sense having them if i found the height i wanna stick with on a car that i wont be changing heights on.. thnx for the advice about the cam gear also, thats a good point that i overlooked as well.
aux
New Member
nah i dont get out much, although im always out hehe.. where im @ there isnt much for car shows, but there is a lot of nice machines here. i live in a college town, home of VT. the nearby city of roanoke however, is infested with rice. mostly ef's and eg's with cut springs, steelies or chrome(yuck) 17's, cheap intakes, apc stickers, dragon/flame seat/steering wheel covers, rusted fenderwells and fart cans galore lol thier stereo systems and ugly bodykits give them a real "need for speed" and most of them are just traffic light whores, and drag racers. completely worthless annoyances in my opinion. its funny when they talk about thier cars b/c most of them are just inbred hicks converted over to the cheap rap scene(lil wayne, birdman, etc) its like theres some sort of portal that keeps spawning rice boys over there... the college kids have nice clean cars but personally, i prefer the rednecks with the old toyotas and mustangs... .they know how to tear up the mountain roads around here. they usually dont mess with anyone, and theyre usually smart as a whip when it comes to engines. even the women! we never really had "cruisers" around here, the only true meets take place in kmart parking loton sunday, mainly just old men with antiques, middle aged guys with thier hot rods, and younger guys in minitrucks. no real hackers though. the only imports unfortunately r just typical civics with cheap mods, the same car you pass 100 times on any highway in america.. nothing worth showing off. it would be different if there were turbo d's and swaps and such, hachirokus, fd's, etc. but its just mainly old ppl and ricers and drag queens so its quite boring.
^ in a biased mood that day
^ in a biased mood that day
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aux
New Member
cool. i alwasy thought that pistons had to be changed to forged or lower compression for turbo, even though ive seen lots of ppl using the stock ones on thier honda engines. cant do that with a 4age or tour asking for trouble, even though the bigport has a comp of 9.4:1 and the z6 = 9.2:1
i guess its the sohc that makes this possible? wierd, dunno
i guess its the sohc that makes this possible? wierd, dunno
aux
New Member
ok, i ended up with an EG coupe dx.
has been converted from auto to manual.
dark forest green with black/grey interior.
d15b7 + intake + headers + 2" exaust + carbon fiber muffler (welded), stock head, intake manifold, ecu, trans. and rebuilt block, yanked from 4 door 5 spd sedan. new radiator, new hoses, removed a/c, autometer autogauge 8000 rpm tach, short shifter, transmission still shifts smoothly, stage 1 clutch, dss racing axles, throttle body "swirl" plate, strut tower support brace, recent paint(no pinstripes)...
as for the engine, ive never felt such a d15b7. im very satisfied with its power, and especially knowing that i could slap an si or ex trans on there and it would be much quicker. now in the dx transmission, what i like about that is being able to hang out in the mid-hi rpms in the top of each gear. of course shifting to the bottom of the next gear throws it out of the "powerband" but it pulls out of the slug zone decently due to the i/h/e and stong block and clean head. it also has enough torque down low to keep me putting around town like a total slowface, but without much hesistation in acceleration due to the engines nice response.
1" cut springs, motegi-style gunmetal 17"s. handles like pure shit... well actually its not that bad, but its awkward and the suspension/brakes are not set up for 17's, they're stock(arg). the tires are all worn differently, and mismatched between the fronts/rears. also the suspension bushings are shot in the rear and going in the front. it needs new shocks all the way around. came with ebay coilovers (but theyre in the trunk lol)... the plan is to get the 17"s off asap, in return for the stock wheels and tires. if the previous owner can come up with a set of either 185 or 195 /60's on black undamaged steelies then ill be more than happy to get rid of these heavy, hindering 17"s. also the vehicle wobbles from left to right pretty badly coming off of bumps,. very bad on speed bumps. they are too wide and without the proper spacing and im guessing they were just threw on there b/c they looked cool, instead of the correct offset that would need to be ran in respect to the stock setup, whatever those #'s R. its like the 17"s and coilovers wore out the cars suspension, and im not suprised. also the tread wear is hideously non uniform, as it is different on each wheel.
now comes the question:
will replacing the stock steelies and tires and removing the cut springs and setting the ebay coilovers to 1.75 or 2" eliminate some of that "roll"and "play" in the suspension? will the cheap coilovers' bouncyness and more tire to absorb shock in combination with PROPER weight wheels and tires negate the effects of the current sour state of the suspension compared to as it is now... until next month when i can afford to get some new shocks and suspension bushings?
or will the coilovers just eat away @ it more? im only planning on running like this until i can get decent 2" lowering springs combined with new shocks and bushings. thing is, ive only got 200 left to deal with the suspension until later on in the month. will it be ok on ebay coilovers and the stock 14's for a month or so? or will it bouce and shake the poor car till the door panels actually DO fall off?
anyway, heres the pix:
the girls:
it is going to be a great car dor a daily driver/delivery vehicle. also im thinking the stock wheels/tires will allow me to shorten that DX tranny a lil bit, and be less work on the clutch & engine as well. it already chirps the 17's and im sure if i dropped the clutch on a high rev they would spin for a sec. rediculous, i didnt know that just i/h/e would extract this much power out of even a new d15b7 with a stock cam. also, its tuned nicely the way it is, i was curious about doing the mini me. should i purchase another d15b7 block to have laying around in case the vtec head kills it, or am i being paranoid? ...i dont care for drag racing, just sudden bursts of power here and there, and for curvy driving. not into traffic lights,1/4 miles, etc.
and the point of me mentioning that is because i want to assure the reader that im not intending on racing around with the mini me, im just going to want it for more power to match my driving style. first though, itll be either the si or ex trans. then the vtec head if i need it, assuming i wont need to change the ecu to match the tranny, or do i? i was hoping that i only needed the ecu to match the cam and head of the respective engine... and that itll fuel match whatever rpm im in. im pretty sure that it doesnt matter wtf transmission you are using with the map setup, the ecu just squirts a certain amount @ the given rpm. am i wrong? OR, should i slap the vtec head on and have more power through the longer gears of the dx???? im kinda confused but the second idear interests me. any help with all this would be appreciated...
has been converted from auto to manual.
dark forest green with black/grey interior.
d15b7 + intake + headers + 2" exaust + carbon fiber muffler (welded), stock head, intake manifold, ecu, trans. and rebuilt block, yanked from 4 door 5 spd sedan. new radiator, new hoses, removed a/c, autometer autogauge 8000 rpm tach, short shifter, transmission still shifts smoothly, stage 1 clutch, dss racing axles, throttle body "swirl" plate, strut tower support brace, recent paint(no pinstripes)...
as for the engine, ive never felt such a d15b7. im very satisfied with its power, and especially knowing that i could slap an si or ex trans on there and it would be much quicker. now in the dx transmission, what i like about that is being able to hang out in the mid-hi rpms in the top of each gear. of course shifting to the bottom of the next gear throws it out of the "powerband" but it pulls out of the slug zone decently due to the i/h/e and stong block and clean head. it also has enough torque down low to keep me putting around town like a total slowface, but without much hesistation in acceleration due to the engines nice response.
1" cut springs, motegi-style gunmetal 17"s. handles like pure shit... well actually its not that bad, but its awkward and the suspension/brakes are not set up for 17's, they're stock(arg). the tires are all worn differently, and mismatched between the fronts/rears. also the suspension bushings are shot in the rear and going in the front. it needs new shocks all the way around. came with ebay coilovers (but theyre in the trunk lol)... the plan is to get the 17"s off asap, in return for the stock wheels and tires. if the previous owner can come up with a set of either 185 or 195 /60's on black undamaged steelies then ill be more than happy to get rid of these heavy, hindering 17"s. also the vehicle wobbles from left to right pretty badly coming off of bumps,. very bad on speed bumps. they are too wide and without the proper spacing and im guessing they were just threw on there b/c they looked cool, instead of the correct offset that would need to be ran in respect to the stock setup, whatever those #'s R. its like the 17"s and coilovers wore out the cars suspension, and im not suprised. also the tread wear is hideously non uniform, as it is different on each wheel.
now comes the question:
will replacing the stock steelies and tires and removing the cut springs and setting the ebay coilovers to 1.75 or 2" eliminate some of that "roll"and "play" in the suspension? will the cheap coilovers' bouncyness and more tire to absorb shock in combination with PROPER weight wheels and tires negate the effects of the current sour state of the suspension compared to as it is now... until next month when i can afford to get some new shocks and suspension bushings?
or will the coilovers just eat away @ it more? im only planning on running like this until i can get decent 2" lowering springs combined with new shocks and bushings. thing is, ive only got 200 left to deal with the suspension until later on in the month. will it be ok on ebay coilovers and the stock 14's for a month or so? or will it bouce and shake the poor car till the door panels actually DO fall off?
anyway, heres the pix:
the girls:
it is going to be a great car dor a daily driver/delivery vehicle. also im thinking the stock wheels/tires will allow me to shorten that DX tranny a lil bit, and be less work on the clutch & engine as well. it already chirps the 17's and im sure if i dropped the clutch on a high rev they would spin for a sec. rediculous, i didnt know that just i/h/e would extract this much power out of even a new d15b7 with a stock cam. also, its tuned nicely the way it is, i was curious about doing the mini me. should i purchase another d15b7 block to have laying around in case the vtec head kills it, or am i being paranoid? ...i dont care for drag racing, just sudden bursts of power here and there, and for curvy driving. not into traffic lights,1/4 miles, etc.
and the point of me mentioning that is because i want to assure the reader that im not intending on racing around with the mini me, im just going to want it for more power to match my driving style. first though, itll be either the si or ex trans. then the vtec head if i need it, assuming i wont need to change the ecu to match the tranny, or do i? i was hoping that i only needed the ecu to match the cam and head of the respective engine... and that itll fuel match whatever rpm im in. im pretty sure that it doesnt matter wtf transmission you are using with the map setup, the ecu just squirts a certain amount @ the given rpm. am i wrong? OR, should i slap the vtec head on and have more power through the longer gears of the dx???? im kinda confused but the second idear interests me. any help with all this would be appreciated...
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aux
New Member
yeah ive been thinking a mini me would be perfect, since im already pretty happy with what it has now being that its just the DD / pizza car. ... the real power is around 5-6,700 ... a narrow power band. i usually hang out around 2500-4000 as much as possible. of course, its faster @ night. the intake hiss is so loud it sounds like turbo. i always thought that those "swirl plates" were more restrictive, but then again those b7 manifolds dont seem to be designed to swirl air through the pleneum into the chamber, am i wrong? the intake on my yota doesnt sound like a large, loud turbo spooling up, maybe its a D-thang ... either way its nice, not complaining.
its not "fast", but its sure as hell is much faster than stock. makes me actually consider wanting to run it against my yota. i kept up with a lude, im sure it was packing some sort of vtec engine. maybe the driver wasnt trying to run me, but he sure acted like it. but i dont believe he laid into it, because i cant see any way in hell that my setup would be able to hang with an h22. especially with the fucked up suspension eating some of what im putting to the ground.
since it has enough power for now, i need to concentrate on the suspension. thnx blanco 4 your advice, im looking for enough drop to put the top of the tires around 1/2" or even with the height of the fenders, which if im not mistaken is a 1 3/4" - 2" drop. ill start with the struts and springs, and i looked @ the bushings on the arms and they look ok. im curious about adding a sway bar for the front and rear, i think that would help it with its crappy handling qualities. id like to get it somewhere close to the handling of my gt-s and believe it can be done possibly for under 1,000... yeah serious research indeed. plus my homies that moved away to the west coast left me with a compressor, impact gun and a nice asst of tools to work with, which = actually being able to get some shit done now that there is open space in the driveway.
i got rid of those damn 17"s and now i have the stock steelies on. it feels so much better, handles better, etc. since it wasnt set up to run 17"s. but, for some odd reason i sensed a difference in acceleration, like it didnt seem as quick, which makes absolutely no sense to me thus far, and doesnt feel that way now. but, i did do the wheel swap in the heat of the afternoon and i drive around mostly in the late afternoon-night. the car definately needs suspension improvements, because im much slower in the turns and i cant pull off the usual tricks on all the spots in the delivery area the way i could with the gt-s, regardless of the fact that it had no clutch and a loss of compression or power being eaten by the wacked-out internals.
id like to do a time trial against the gt-s(after i rebuild it) on a nearby road, but my experience with the stock discs on on an eg hatch and a 3G accord was that its just plain too much for them, and you have to calm down halfway down the mountain or theyll overheat and youll b fucked. they smoked on the 3G. im not planning on racing my civic through the high roads of this area, i just want to make sure that it is set up enough to handle such demands, since there are penty of roads around here that are moderatly like this, but this is one of the best (or worst). its just as awsome up hill as it is down hill, if your using something with hella tourqe, like a 5mge.
anyway heres the road:
mountain lake rd va - Google Maps
its not "fast", but its sure as hell is much faster than stock. makes me actually consider wanting to run it against my yota. i kept up with a lude, im sure it was packing some sort of vtec engine. maybe the driver wasnt trying to run me, but he sure acted like it. but i dont believe he laid into it, because i cant see any way in hell that my setup would be able to hang with an h22. especially with the fucked up suspension eating some of what im putting to the ground.
since it has enough power for now, i need to concentrate on the suspension. thnx blanco 4 your advice, im looking for enough drop to put the top of the tires around 1/2" or even with the height of the fenders, which if im not mistaken is a 1 3/4" - 2" drop. ill start with the struts and springs, and i looked @ the bushings on the arms and they look ok. im curious about adding a sway bar for the front and rear, i think that would help it with its crappy handling qualities. id like to get it somewhere close to the handling of my gt-s and believe it can be done possibly for under 1,000... yeah serious research indeed. plus my homies that moved away to the west coast left me with a compressor, impact gun and a nice asst of tools to work with, which = actually being able to get some shit done now that there is open space in the driveway.
i got rid of those damn 17"s and now i have the stock steelies on. it feels so much better, handles better, etc. since it wasnt set up to run 17"s. but, for some odd reason i sensed a difference in acceleration, like it didnt seem as quick, which makes absolutely no sense to me thus far, and doesnt feel that way now. but, i did do the wheel swap in the heat of the afternoon and i drive around mostly in the late afternoon-night. the car definately needs suspension improvements, because im much slower in the turns and i cant pull off the usual tricks on all the spots in the delivery area the way i could with the gt-s, regardless of the fact that it had no clutch and a loss of compression or power being eaten by the wacked-out internals.
id like to do a time trial against the gt-s(after i rebuild it) on a nearby road, but my experience with the stock discs on on an eg hatch and a 3G accord was that its just plain too much for them, and you have to calm down halfway down the mountain or theyll overheat and youll b fucked. they smoked on the 3G. im not planning on racing my civic through the high roads of this area, i just want to make sure that it is set up enough to handle such demands, since there are penty of roads around here that are moderatly like this, but this is one of the best (or worst). its just as awsome up hill as it is down hill, if your using something with hella tourqe, like a 5mge.
anyway heres the road:
mountain lake rd va - Google Maps
lsteggy
New Member
haha im sorry
there is no way a d -series will get 150 whp all motor lol come on. unless you do some serious engine mod and boring and stroking, cams blah blah ..... just get a z6 and thats it. its only a d series not worth swapping parts.
there is no way a d -series will get 150 whp all motor lol come on. unless you do some serious engine mod and boring and stroking, cams blah blah ..... just get a z6 and thats it. its only a d series not worth swapping parts.
K2e2vin
Senior Member
Wow dude, really?
It's obvious you did not do any research...at all! Considering the highest HP NA D-series is around 270whp, and was still 1.5l(ran 10s in a CRX). Hint; he is known for making power with carbs. Another hint, his F22A is making over 480whp, NA, right now.
Plus, there are people right now that have around 150whp or even more on their naturally aspirated, stock stroke/bore, D-series. Speaking of boring, Humble Performance made like 160whp from just overboring(resleeve/pistons) and tuning....stock head.
Check out D-series.org and Onecameonly.com for these "impossible" setups.
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aux
New Member
ok guys, heres the list of mods, i really need your brainz
i have a d15b7 with a fresh tight block, i/h/e and running 93 octane only, no lower ..
pretty damn suprising but
i want just a little more OUTPUT without much if any DAMAGE. after doing some research, ive decided not to go with vtec for now.. so i want to use a d16a6 si camshaft, adjustable cam sprocket, new timing belt, and fine tune it with an A/F/C, and add an all aluminum radiator that comes with a slim fan, so im thinking keep the original fan but mount the slim on the front, and wire it up seperately or to a thermostat for if the temp exeeds the what the oem fan is capable of. all im thinking that en engine, like a processor, can perform much better and more relaibly if cooled when "overclocked" and since these blocks have to work harder, its like a heavy duty cooling system on an overclocked processor. thing is, i need to know what temp is too low, as to prevent overcooling and losing power. all i want is what i can get out of the b7 manifold. it has a throttle body spacer plate. am i correct to think i need an a/f/c to tune the engine with the si cam? does the stock obd1 dx ecu have a "fuel cut" ? will somehting like an apexi vafc work to piggyback and override that ecu?
also it has rare DSS racing axles, which should hold quite fine for the added power.
im only hoping to find about 130-ish hp, and around 115 tq
**1st mod on the list:
add oil cooling system. im thinking it is important to make sure the oil stays cool, since a modified d15b7 block has to work harder. my 4age powered corolla gt-s has a factory intalled one. seems like it cant hurt..
heres what i want to do:
get the sandwich plate for the civic:
then get the VW dune buggy 8 row oil cooler kit:
get some heavy duty lines, and install to the right of the radiator, b.c the a/c condesner isnt in the way(its gone) .. but, i have a problem... where to run the lines, and since the oil filter is on the back, wouldent they be kind of long?i could run them below but the car is low and id hate for a branch or somehting to accidently catch one of the lines.
2nd mod:
d16a6 camshaft, ugr cam sprocket and apexi vafc. after i slap the si cam in, will it be neccesary to tune the engine with an a/f/c ? or will it run just fine on the stock ecu. since the engine is already nicely tuned even without any real "tuning" just i/h/e, im curious if ill need something to manage it after things change. the cam sprocket is a ugr model:
and the vafc:
3rd mod:
a better radiator
with the slim fan as a front mounted backup unit if thats even necessary.
also, im very curious as to what is the best oil to run.i was looking into lucas synthetic 20w 50 racing oil. curious if anyone has tried lucas for this application, and if 20w 50 is being a little silly.
also, if i switch to 20w 50 synthetic on a block that has been running 5w 30 non syn, would that cause damage or would it be a good move?
so basically, im thinking this is all i have to do for a slight increase in power and a decent way to have real time control over my engine to manage and access that power, and control and set up preset maps that i can dial in or trigger on demand. to say, emulate the semi-sluggish power and engine action of driving an old dual port dx for driving around town on errands/deliveries etc and be able use my transmission normally, then if i need the power, just press the button and the a/f/c then changes from the preset slug map to the preset power map, and the engine runs differently instead of just driving around in 4th and 5th gear to get the similar slug effect.
this should be a good few things i can do to help the longevity of my engine and increase power a little bit. very curious to hear what u guys think. ive noticed that nobody seems to have done the oil cooler for thier d series, none that i can find. i know that if you stand back and look at it, considering that all the components ive mentioned have somehting to do with cooling, more cooling and security in controlling the power, it may seem as if im just a bit paranoid. but my 4age engine has a facory installed oil cooler, so im thinking that if it needs one, then of course my b7 should have one. basically, since my toyota is currently being worked on, im driving around "chasing my ghost" with this EG through all the places i used to exploit on my normal delivery route and the streets around here.. since i installed the new struts and the ebay coilovers that came with the car, im now able to hit those areas with a lot less body roll and much more precise steering. the bumpyness is nowhere near as bad as i thought it was going to be after reading all the posts against ebay coilovers. i plan on using them until i have saved up money for a real set of coilovers with damper control, in which im planning on have replaced the trailing arms with lighter stronger aftermarket ones and installing swaybars on the front and rear, and replacing whatever worn bushings i have to from the damage incurred from the ghetto setup. then i think it will be a nicely set up machine. just with the ebay coilovers and stock somewhat used replaced struts it stix like glue in the spots that used to pitch my corolla and cause me to have to either loose the ass end and drift it, or feather the turn whilst loosing speed from having to slow down for the entry. even with the longer wheelbase, the civic coupe works quite well. my exit speed with the dx transmission is teh suxxors though. i cant pull out of the corners the way i can with the 4age without asking a lot from the 1.5 while having to drop back to second and clutch-in the turn but it doesnt drop me back to where id like to be in the gears. in fact its annoying... ive heard rumors that there is a d series transmission that was used in an old crx that had very close gears, "the closest gear ratio of any crx transmission" is what was said... is that true or just bs ?
also, im assuming if i have the vafc i wont need a stoichiometer, unless it doesnt display/alert fuel conditions.
last but not least, injectors... i dont think ill need too much more fuel for the si cam but im not sure.
a lot of reading but i appreciate anyone with the patience for it. the d series engines have potential and i have faith in them.
i have a d15b7 with a fresh tight block, i/h/e and running 93 octane only, no lower ..
pretty damn suprising but
i want just a little more OUTPUT without much if any DAMAGE. after doing some research, ive decided not to go with vtec for now.. so i want to use a d16a6 si camshaft, adjustable cam sprocket, new timing belt, and fine tune it with an A/F/C, and add an all aluminum radiator that comes with a slim fan, so im thinking keep the original fan but mount the slim on the front, and wire it up seperately or to a thermostat for if the temp exeeds the what the oem fan is capable of. all im thinking that en engine, like a processor, can perform much better and more relaibly if cooled when "overclocked" and since these blocks have to work harder, its like a heavy duty cooling system on an overclocked processor. thing is, i need to know what temp is too low, as to prevent overcooling and losing power. all i want is what i can get out of the b7 manifold. it has a throttle body spacer plate. am i correct to think i need an a/f/c to tune the engine with the si cam? does the stock obd1 dx ecu have a "fuel cut" ? will somehting like an apexi vafc work to piggyback and override that ecu?
also it has rare DSS racing axles, which should hold quite fine for the added power.
im only hoping to find about 130-ish hp, and around 115 tq
**1st mod on the list:
add oil cooling system. im thinking it is important to make sure the oil stays cool, since a modified d15b7 block has to work harder. my 4age powered corolla gt-s has a factory intalled one. seems like it cant hurt..
heres what i want to do:
get the sandwich plate for the civic:
then get the VW dune buggy 8 row oil cooler kit:
get some heavy duty lines, and install to the right of the radiator, b.c the a/c condesner isnt in the way(its gone) .. but, i have a problem... where to run the lines, and since the oil filter is on the back, wouldent they be kind of long?i could run them below but the car is low and id hate for a branch or somehting to accidently catch one of the lines.
2nd mod:
d16a6 camshaft, ugr cam sprocket and apexi vafc. after i slap the si cam in, will it be neccesary to tune the engine with an a/f/c ? or will it run just fine on the stock ecu. since the engine is already nicely tuned even without any real "tuning" just i/h/e, im curious if ill need something to manage it after things change. the cam sprocket is a ugr model:
and the vafc:
3rd mod:
a better radiator
with the slim fan as a front mounted backup unit if thats even necessary.
also, im very curious as to what is the best oil to run.i was looking into lucas synthetic 20w 50 racing oil. curious if anyone has tried lucas for this application, and if 20w 50 is being a little silly.
also, if i switch to 20w 50 synthetic on a block that has been running 5w 30 non syn, would that cause damage or would it be a good move?
so basically, im thinking this is all i have to do for a slight increase in power and a decent way to have real time control over my engine to manage and access that power, and control and set up preset maps that i can dial in or trigger on demand. to say, emulate the semi-sluggish power and engine action of driving an old dual port dx for driving around town on errands/deliveries etc and be able use my transmission normally, then if i need the power, just press the button and the a/f/c then changes from the preset slug map to the preset power map, and the engine runs differently instead of just driving around in 4th and 5th gear to get the similar slug effect.
this should be a good few things i can do to help the longevity of my engine and increase power a little bit. very curious to hear what u guys think. ive noticed that nobody seems to have done the oil cooler for thier d series, none that i can find. i know that if you stand back and look at it, considering that all the components ive mentioned have somehting to do with cooling, more cooling and security in controlling the power, it may seem as if im just a bit paranoid. but my 4age engine has a facory installed oil cooler, so im thinking that if it needs one, then of course my b7 should have one. basically, since my toyota is currently being worked on, im driving around "chasing my ghost" with this EG through all the places i used to exploit on my normal delivery route and the streets around here.. since i installed the new struts and the ebay coilovers that came with the car, im now able to hit those areas with a lot less body roll and much more precise steering. the bumpyness is nowhere near as bad as i thought it was going to be after reading all the posts against ebay coilovers. i plan on using them until i have saved up money for a real set of coilovers with damper control, in which im planning on have replaced the trailing arms with lighter stronger aftermarket ones and installing swaybars on the front and rear, and replacing whatever worn bushings i have to from the damage incurred from the ghetto setup. then i think it will be a nicely set up machine. just with the ebay coilovers and stock somewhat used replaced struts it stix like glue in the spots that used to pitch my corolla and cause me to have to either loose the ass end and drift it, or feather the turn whilst loosing speed from having to slow down for the entry. even with the longer wheelbase, the civic coupe works quite well. my exit speed with the dx transmission is teh suxxors though. i cant pull out of the corners the way i can with the 4age without asking a lot from the 1.5 while having to drop back to second and clutch-in the turn but it doesnt drop me back to where id like to be in the gears. in fact its annoying... ive heard rumors that there is a d series transmission that was used in an old crx that had very close gears, "the closest gear ratio of any crx transmission" is what was said... is that true or just bs ?
also, im assuming if i have the vafc i wont need a stoichiometer, unless it doesnt display/alert fuel conditions.
last but not least, injectors... i dont think ill need too much more fuel for the si cam but im not sure.
a lot of reading but i appreciate anyone with the patience for it. the d series engines have potential and i have faith in them.
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