ok, thanks man that answers a lot of my questions. how about those spoon and mugen chips, are they bs or do they actually increase the amount of fuel throughout the range and raise the fuel cut to 8200?
so, as for the cooling system,its nice to know the capacity is fine. ive seen b swaps using the stock EG radiator, but i didnt know if they didnt have the "correct" radiator, or if that one was actually proper. the thing that gets me is the plastic. ive always regarded plastic radiators as cheap and junky, with no sort of prestige in the quality of thier design @ all. ive even seen plenty of them cracked as well. ive seen this happen to a few honda radiators and im sure others. thats why i am sort of worried about the stock radiator, even though the one in my car appears to be very close to "brand new" .. i was just thinking that a stainless steel one was a better quality design and would hold up better and last longer in the end...
so if i just got a cam and sprocket, and a vafc anf the chipped ecu(if its not bs) then would that = a nice entry level tuning system for a lightly modified engine that would give me real time control from the cab and allow me to say, move the powerband around where i wanted it with respect to the position of the cam and have eliminated the fuel cut issue(since the chip moves it to 8200 and this is only an 8000 rpm engine stock) ??
im more worried about spending money on the most correct-as-possible parts, but trying to hunt down the best hackarounds i can find, things that are = quality of good components, but marketed elsewhere and can be sniped out for a good deal, to save money that way. hence the VW oil cooler system. the ones for the civics, etc go for over 150, but its the same shit. 1/2 connectors, stainless lines. the only thing that seemed important was the cooling capacity and appropriate sandwich plate. the reason im so worried about cooling, is because when i rev, id like to be able to rev for a while without worrying about damaging the block.
so instead of the engine getting really hot while in a high rev state, the cooling system compensates and keeps it at a lower level. i want to be able to run the engine @ high revs for long periods of time. im not interested in drag racing, but for using the power in bursts, where i need it. and with these hilly/mountainous roads around here, it would be nice to be able to keep the engine in the powerband and keep it armed for the corners. so if i am revving to7,000 a lot, but not overrevinng, wouldent that be kindas like maxing ot the capacity of the engine because it is causing dmaage to the internals? and if i had a system that compensated for the heat and matched it on the way up to the "new" peak, wouldent my engine be more secure? like the processor, the hotter it gets the more cooling it needs to maintain that optimal operating temperature, which would be interesting to know in this case.
basically, im dissatisfied with all i have seen and heard about ppls d engines not lasting that long under high load, and i would like to find a way to extend that life. i was thinking the systme would help keep the internals such as the bearings, crank and rods, seals, and block etc cooler when they should be heating up a lot more due to the friction. i could uinderstand the pistons themselves not being saved, because as the rest of the engine stays cooler, they would be sacrificed because they would have more load paced on them if i was to decide to rev higher for longer periods of time, being thats where the combustion is, theres no way to really get around that unless i used some sort of coated super bad ass piston like ROSS racing nitrous pistons built for NA nitrous applications, but then that would be overkill compared to the rest of stock internals. basically, i dont want my d15b7 internals to go bad as fast as they are supposed to under high rev conditions.
what is considered maxing out the d15b7's capacity? doesnt persistant high revving = high heat and more damage? apparently, its not good enough as it is or those rings, bearings, seals, and most of the rest of the moving parts of the d engines would last longer, in my opinion, so why even give it a chance? why not just make it so it doesnt even have the option of giving me the same trouble as it would if i were to run it hard as it is now? or maybe im looking @ it wrong, like missing something... i know what you said about it not needing extra cooling b/c of not going past its current max capacity, but again im not exactly clear on what its max capacity is, if everytime it has an rpm it is being slowly damaged, a countdown to its death, and when you rev it hard, that just speeds up the process. so im unclear on why the stock cooling capacity is fine, and the normal level of damage attained to the engine from the stock cooling system is considered acceptable?
definately not trying to argue your point, im just unlcear on exactly why its not neccesary and why it wont make any difference and what is maxing out compared to what the current system can do to negate the damage.
anyway im going to take your advice and roll with the cam + sprocket + vafc for now, since cooling isnt a directly severe issue atm.
ill need to find a cam that is streetable, and just a little more aggro than the si cam, since it must be streetable,m since its my daily driver.
im unclear about the chpped ecus, but ive heard and read a lot of posts claiming that they work, and ive heard a few posts claiming its just bs
but if the vafc understandably cannot modify what doesnt exist on the ecu, and if that chip doesnt work and is just bs, id still be stuck with the old rev limit, wouldent it?
well heres some fresh pix:
