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D15B7 obd1 dizzy onto D15B2 obd0

Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by Inseino, Nov 1, 2011.

  1. Inseino

    Inseino Junior Member

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    Jun 16, 2005
    Quick run down of what happened. First off the block is a JDM D15B, although as far as I know those are supposed to be vtec but that's not the case with this motor. Aside from the D15B stamped on the block it looks to be a typical dpfi D15B2 head. Bearing inside the dizzy started to go, and me being too lazy to do anything about it I waited until the ecu jumped into limp home mode since the sensors inside got chewed up because the bearing had wore out so bad that the shaft started running on an angle. Mainly the crank position sensor got damaged the most which is what code I'm getting off the ECU. The dizzy cap had the contacts nearly sliced off. I couldn't believe the motor was still running to be honest.

    Friend of mine gave me a spare dizzy he had off of a D15B7, at least I think that's what it is. I forgot to ask when I got it, but it was a 94 either cx or dx, but I think dx because the motor was 16 valve. Doesn't matter. Wiring should be the same.

    So I wired it up. Simple enough. Just want to double check the wiring with you guys since I just used mitchell to put it together.

    tdc [obd0]wht-blu [obd1]wht-blu
    tdc [obd0]org-blu [obd1]org-blu

    ckp [obd0]wht [obd1]lt-blu
    ckp [obd0]org [obd1]blu-yel

    ignition input signal [obd0]wht [obd1]yel-grn

    --------- [obd0]blk-yel [obd1]blk-yel
    tach [obd0]blu [obd1]blu


    I left the org and wht wires from the CYP alone since this is a dpfi and the old dizzy didn't have them either so I'm guessing that's okay. One thing I wasn't sure about was in which order the 2 wires from each sensor go with the wires on the harness. ie: ckp wht goes with lt-blu or blu-yel. I figured I got it right with the tdc because I'm not getting any codes. But I'm getting a code about the ckp sensor.

    The wiring diagrams for the D15B2 show each wire coming off the ckp sensor going into pins on the ecu that are both labeled as CKP input. I kind of thought that one should be an output and the other an input. On the wiring diagram for the D15B7 it shows 'ckp p' on one ecu pin and 'ckp m' on the other. Don't know what the p or m stand for. Thought positive and minus for a sec but figured it would make more sense to use n for negative in that case.

    I tired swapping the wires around to see if it'd make a difference, but nothing. I reset the ecu, code is gone up until I start the motor, and then its back right away. I checked resistance, shorts to ground, continuity, everything seems good. Just in case, I had a spare PM5 ecu (was currently running a PM9) and same thing. Code 4. And as far as I know this dizzy came off of a running motor with no codes at the time. I guess it is possible that I got screwed with a dizzy that has another bad ckp, but I thought I'd ask here before I go looking for another one.

    Oh, and the last thing I tried before giving up for the day was flipping around the nose that goes into the camshaft. Having it set the original way that it comes out of the D15B7, the timing ends up being 180 degrees off on the D15B2 head. Not a big deal I thought since its a dpfi and doesn't need to know which cylinder is #1 so I just put the #1 plug wire where it would usually be the #4 wire. But after all the trouble I was having, I flipped the nose so the #1 wire was in the same spot as it would be on the D15B7.

    The only other thing I thought about doing but was kind of hesitant was to splice in 2 fresh wires straight from the ecu to the dizzy just in case there's something strange in the wires that's causing the ecu to throw out the code.
    Other than that, I don't know. Any help would be appreciated.

    Actually some good info would be to know exactly how these sensors work. Is there a voltage signal of some sort sent and the returned to the ecu when the reluctor passes the contact point. I mean I find it stupid that the only test mitchell or the civic service manual gives is to check ohms and wires and that alone determines whether the sensor or ecu are screwed. They even suggest replacement of the distributor assembly instead of just changing out the sensor.
     
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