d15b7 timing?

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krazykid711

New Member
Ok i just swaped a d15b7 with a y8 head into my 93 civic. I think I have my timing pretty close but i can't use a timing light cause the timing belt cover was off the motor. The car idles at about 1800 rpm and when driving it is sluggish until about 4000 rpm and then it takes off. I don't know if my timing is the issue here or what is but if anybody has any ideas please let me know. Thanks
 
You'll want to put a timing cover back on that. If some random shit flies up off the road it could get to the timing belt and fuck your engine. It'll be like 40 bucks at Honda but it's a lot cheaper than swapping the head again because of bent valves.

As for timing, to be honest I have always just started out with the distributor centered in the slots, with the three bolts loose, then had someone slowly rev the engine up and down while I rotate it. it'll be pretty evident when you are in a good place or bad. If you are tight on help and it's a one man job you can work the throttle body butterfly with one hand and not have to run back and forth to the driver's seat. just take your time and when you get it right, take a razor blade or knife and score a line across the ear of the head and the distributor to "mark your spot" so if you have the distributor off in the future (replace o ring, replace transmission, heater hose, etc) you can get it right back to the right spot.

Or if you want to use a timing light and all of that you can, you will just need an afternoon and the Honda crank tool (unless your crank pulled happens to have holes all of the way around, you can make your own tool with a couple of large bolts and a steel bar with two holes drilled in it).
 
yeah, let me tell you how to tell what your idle problem is. If it only does it while cold, its the cold air idle valve, which is nearest the butterfly and below it. If when the thermostat opens up, it smooths out perfectly and stops idle loping, that is your cold idle valve. If it does it all the time, namely if it just bogs, it is probably the intake air idle control valve as you states, disconnect the two coolant lines and take the two 12mm bolts out holding it on. If the screen is filled with soot, clean it off (don't use chemical, just very lightly use a screwdriver or something to unclog it, some people will tell you to use brake clean but I really wouldn't). If the screen isn't clogged, it could still be simply mechanical failure.

Funny enough my engine swap took a twist on me today and the damn thing acted like it was rough as hell when I started it, and having changed the distributor for compatibility reasons I thought it must be the timing, and for the fucking life of me even by trial and error I couldn't smooth it out. This is a D16y7 btw so a little different than your case. Anyway for the first time ever I used a timing light and it was a lot simpler than I ever imagined. Anyway, the random spot I picked where it seemed to run "best" was dead on, but it still runs like shit. Well I remembered that I swapped EVERYTHING off the old engine onto the new block and head- except one thing- I used the JDM injectors on the USDM intake (just because I thught they'd have less mileage). Well lo and befucking hold they have a 4 digit part number stamped on them and the JDM injectors were different! So tomorrow I will swap the right injectors back, but dude if the injectors/intake you are using are still from the b7 head and you're using the y8 ECU, or vice versa, that could easily be the problem. Make sure the ECU matches the intake. Most likely though your timing is just off, make sure you get the crank tool as well as the timing cover and you should be set to get the ignition perfect on it.
 
yeah my head and ecu are the same but thanks again man your helping out alot i will try this stuff tomorow and keep you updated. thanks
 
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