D16 power capability??

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

If I am not mistaken the car you are buying already has the d16y8 or d16z6 sohc vtec. So you need to find a d15b7 block and put your head after first port and pollishing, 5 angle valve job, and titanium valve springs, and retainers, on that block, go with the y8 ecu.

If he's buying a car with a Y8 or Z6 already in it then why the hell would he want to ditch the 1.6 block for a 1.5?

I agree with everyone else, you're full of it...
 
you don't quite understand i think... on the main page, find the appropriate section for your topic, and choose the link that says 'start thread'. that is where you start topics which you would like people to respond to. you should not do what you have done here and ask a different question in someone else's thread. :)

Dude i asked how much power a "d" series motor would put out...so don't cry about it.
its not like the thread was "bseries motors only" or someshit. I think you'll live. =]
 
Soon here I am hopefully gong to get a 99 civic coupe w/ a D16. I dont really know the kind of power the D series motors are capable. (not really a big fan of the Ds)

I was hoping to get 175-200hp N/A w/ I/H/E, Intake man., throttlebody, cam, cam gear, underdrive pulley, and port mathching the IM, header, and head.... am I going to be able to make my goal? if not what can I do? And are there any more power adders (no boost or nitrous) that can give me more power?

The D-series engine, with stock internals can handle up to 200whp, boosted. anything more and your pushing the boundaries for your rods. As far as making that power N/A, good luck. to make 200whp NA in a D would be too costly for one, secondly your compression ratio would have to be sky high, pump gas wouldnt even be a option. a D with I/H/E/IM/TB tuned will get you around 130-140whp with a great tuner and program such as crome-pro, hondata or neptune. For the money you will spend, I suggest swapping in a b16 at the least. If you can afford gsr or itr for that matter go for it. ITR engines are awesome in stock form. make 200 crank hp.

If you cant afford all of that, do up your fuel system with 310cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, higher volume fuel rail and a FPR. Than put a Zex dry kit on it and use a 55-75hp jet, whatever your goal is. Thats about as good as it gets for the money done right. Good luck.
 
my mild build stock bore ls-vtec setup made 204whp. If you still want to give it a try, contact Bisi Motorsports. He will gladly help you out but keep in mind you will be spending a lot of money for that goal and most likely it wont be streetable.
 
Bisi was doing ~17:1 compression...on pump fuel. It's amazing what tuning does. :)

There are plenty of guys in the 160-170whp range, that are using off the shelf parts and P29 pistons(around stock-bore size). More can definitely be had!
 
These D-Series topics are always terrible.

You won't get 130whp out of a D16 with bolt-ons, maybe 115-120whp but that's still pretty optimistic. Changing the throttle body and intake manifold on a stock engine will actually lose power across the rev range. Why you ask? Because the engine can't use the greater volume of air and thus loses velocity, which causes a drop in power. Getting 200whp all-motor is a matter of sleeving and over-boring along with raising compression to around 12:1 and using a custom cam. Along with quality i/h/e you'll also need some bad-ass head work and a custom intake manifold. So yes, it is expensive but it's also very do-able. Your 204whp LS/V wasn't cheap either.

I got stock B16 power out of my Z6 for less it would cost to drop a B16 in.

my 204whp lsv build costed me 1400. Had a b16 swap which i used the the head and tranny, bought a used block for 250 and rebuilt it myself. machine shop did the hot tank and hone and pressed the rods onto the pistons. I did the rest.
 
Bisi was doing ~17:1 compression...on pump fuel. It's amazing what tuning does. :)

There are plenty of guys in the 160-170whp range, that are using off the shelf parts and P29 pistons(around stock-bore size). More can definitely be had!

I would love to see proof of that. i barely got away with 93 octane with 12.5:1 compression. I ran 91 on accident (retard indian pump gas attendant) and it pinged.
 
my 204whp lsv build costed me 1400. Had a b16 swap which i used the the head and tranny, bought a used block for 250 and rebuilt it myself. machine shop did the hot tank and hone and pressed the rods onto the pistons. I did the rest.

man, i would really like to see a write up on that...

:)
 
man, i would really like to see a write up on that...

:)

ok, here is the build. Luckily I have a lot of parts laying around so I saved a few dollars... but than again this was a build, not a complete buy/build.

b16a2 head (had it)
b16 hydro tranny (had it)

Hot tank the short block $100
shotpeen the ls rods and shave sides for wrist pins to fit w/assembly $215
arp head studs/bolts, rod bolts, new bearings & seals $150 from the machine shop
pistons (ctr stock bore with rings) $320
itr oil pump and water pump (had it)
GE ls vtec conversion kit w/HG $200
new oil pan gasket $18
new oem timing belt (have 3 new for itr, used 1 of them)
used 2001 usdm itr cams $400
used but in great shape, itr valvetrain $250

total = $1653.00

so i was off 253 dollars...
 
im building the same setup right now, ill post a more detailed thread about it with pictures and how-to's.
 
I would love to see proof of that. i barely got away with 93 octane with 12.5:1 compression. I ran 91 on accident (retard indian pump gas attendant) and it pinged.

You can call him and ask, he'll tell you(Bisimoto). Also, you can google him...before he had the Insight he was running a 260-270whp D15 CRX, All-Motor.

I'm actually surprised you haven't heard of him. He's at +430whp on a All-Motor F22A right now(I believe he's around 470whp to be exact, and running methanol now). He frequents D-series, H-T, and many F or D boards and on occasions let out a little bit of info. He also has many articles in I believe TPR magazine

Here's what I could find on Bisi's old setup(it was on his website at one point)
Bisi's setup.

1.53L RS built A6 block with fun stuff inside.

18.4:1 CR

RS head, merge collected 4-1 header.

Mikuni carbs.

so thats all I can give
 
Last edited:
I'm going to need to see a dyno sheet or I'm calling bullshit on 75-80whp with that list.

lmfao where have you been for the last 5 years?? that setup i described was from 4 years ago in my old si eg hatch. I dont have the dyno sheet anymore, ive moved twice since then. you can even check out Erynn on Honda-Tech. She is from Long Island, NY. Part of Team exit. her build was similiar, just bigger cams and gsr short block..

Erynn's build:

gsr block
stock bore, 12:1 compression forged pistons, eagle rods, aftermarket valvetrain inside of an ITR head with original stock port, running s2s3's. she made 210whp.

Keep in mind, my ls-vtec had vtec crossover @ 6800 rpm, which is peak torque so it hits harder and I spun it to 9k without losing power with the itr cams. You can call BS all day long until you pass out I could honestly care less. I will be tuning with crome-pro on the new setup, and when its finished ill be sure to post the dyno results in .jpg format AND give you the information for the shop and tuner just to make it that much more satisfying. Ive been building ls-v's for years, its my preference of engine setup. I like the torque. not so big on the rod stroke, cant spin them high. That old setup only lasted 4 months before the wrist pin broke in cylinder #2.
 
oops, i forgot some parts in that list...

ITR IM/TB & I was tuning with a Hytech 4-1 header, 2.5" collector.
 
Yep, I'm calling bullshit. Now you're just talking out of your ass. You're telling me that the Hytech header and S2S3 cams only made 6whp over your 204whp with stock ITR cams? Bull fucking shit. I'll believe the 210whp from that setup, but I'm not believing more than 184whp from yours. You're such a kick-ass tuner that you don't know how to tune VTEC crossover. You shouldn't feel VTEC hit, it should be a smooth transition. You put the crossover just below the point where the low cam profile stops making power. And, let me get this straight, you can rev past the point where ITR cams stop making power without losing any power? You are so full of shit. :D

Go away intArnetz cool kid.

One, those parts that i forgot were on MY setup.
Two, Im not a tuner. That setup was tuned @ RPM NYC
Three, the base tune was with a dc sports 4-2-1 header which only made 192whp. When we used the Hytech header I dyno'd 204whp. Im no tuner Blanco, I just build short blocks. now the new build i will go step by step with pictures. I dont need your arguments about an ls-vtec build and the power it made or the vtec crossover. I dyno'd more power with vtec crossover @ 6800 with hytech header than i did with the dc sports and vtec @ 5800. so until you can show dyno threads proving ME wrong, you can keep your negative comments to yourself. :D
 
Back
Top