Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by slamedciv, Oct 9, 2003.
What do u guys recomend that I do the sohc to make it faster, without going forced induction???
what type of power/performance are you trying to get out of it?
is this a daily driver or track only car ?
what type of budget do you have?
NOS, cams, new pistons, rods- build a high compression motor? but for all the money you'll spend on building that you should just buy a turbo kit
Not if you use OEM parts...
The turbo kit route will almost always get you the most power, but it's not always the most economical.
how could he use OEM parts to build up a d16? i didn't know that the d16 could share parts with other members of the honda family- can you tell me which ones? cause i'd like to save money if i decide to build the one d16z6 i have-
ZC pistons, y0! They up the CR in a Z6, along with a D16Y8 head gasket.
Yup, ZC pistons will take your compression up to 12.0:1 in a Z6 engine, and if you can find the 2 layer Y8 head gasket, your compression will be bumped up to 12.3:1. The "standard" Y8 head gasket is a 3 layer unit though, and the exact same part number as the Z6 gasket... so be careful what you ask for at the dealer counter. Personally, I would just leave out the thin Y8 head gasket and stay with the standard thickness one.
The Y8 manifold can also be swapped on for some more kick. The plenum is huge compared to anything else available to the D block from the factory. Lots of people call the Y8 manifold the "ITR IM of the D series" because of the plenum and runner design.
If you're diligent, you can find the JDM DOHC ZC (PM7) or USDM 88-89 Integra (P29) pistons and rods for about $100 or less (PM7 is the same piston as P29), then add on the Y8 intake manifold for not much more. Later on you can swap in an entire aftermarket cam setup- like a Crower Stage 2 or 3 including valve springs and retainers for $600. ZEX's cam and valvetrain sets are slightly cheaper, and still produce awesome results.
Grab a used VAFC from somewhere, pick up a decent used I/H/E, and you could easily be in the 150-160whp range or higher with some decent tuning. That's not too far off from a bolt on turbo kit that costs you the same (around $1500), and you save weight, stay more "sleeper" under the hood, and have a nice responsive power curve. It's nowhere near as easy to put together as a bolt-on turbo kit, but to me at least- it's more satisfying.
well i am a better honda owner from reading those posts- thank you
You're welcome. Just realize that building up an engine in your garage with budget used parts is a lot harder than disconnecting your exhaust manifold and bolting on a pre-made turbo kit.
going all motor instead of bolting on a turbo kit on a y8 engine....
"I WONDER WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN....."
for 2000.00 (same amount i paid for my greddy kit and all parts to make it run)
I guess you'll never find out... but don't worry- if you go with your B18 swap, you'll be at a totally different level.
This is what I'm doing.
-6 bolt cam gear
-zex cam w/ stainless springs and retainers
-zc pistons and shot peened zc rods
Worse comes to worse after that a 50 shot which should put you to atleast 175 area.
Easily... that's the basic setup I'm looking at, just with a different cam. A 50 shot of juice on its own on top of a D16Z6 with I/H/E will almost put you in 175whp territory.
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