I have read, read, and read some more, all from this head on a D15 and even a write up of one doing this same setup. However the information seems to be conflicting so I have a few basic questions (possibly dumb ones, please forgive me) to clear things up for me and hopefully any others. First off HERE is a link to the A6 block with Z6 head write up that I found from one the many sites. In that particular write up it says you need a vtec controller or any type of RPM activated controller to engage the vtec solenoid. My question here is If I run the proper P28 ECU do I still need the RPM activated switch? My thinking tells me no and that the P28 will do all the controlling needed. Now In that article there is no mention of the ECU change so I am thinking that is why they were using an RPM activated switch. I am full and well aware I will need to convert my OBD0 vehicle to OBD1 to be able to run the P28 ecu to match the 93? 95? (dont remember) Del Sol SI head I have. I had some questions about wiring but just seen another post by a member on this board about THIS harness which will provide the proper jumpers for the OBD0 to OBD1 also the proper jumper for the vtec dizzy from the Z6 head and also has a provision for "integrated vtec subharness (no soldering!)" so that should take care of that. Kinda pricey but A good value as I wont have to do any wiring (that I hate cause I am to picky) and it will all be there. I should be ok running the stock A6 resistor box and injectors correct? I will be using the Z6 fuel rail and Z6 intake manifold. So to regroup and make sure I am not over looking anything.... Pull oil jet out of A6 block as Z6 head already has one. Get a P28 ECU to match Z6 head. OBD0 to OBD1 jumper harness to run P28 with my OBD0 harness. (get pimp set from rywire and will also take care of vtec wiring and I will also have all that taken care of. Timing belt from Z6 engine (is this required? my A6 belt has less than 3k miles...) we will see I guess. All the gaskets obviously. Also plugs and wires for Z6 also will replace cap and rotor for a fresh start. head gasket for Z6 or Y8 engine. now with this I am understanding the Z6 is a metal 3 piece gasket such as the b series I am familiar with and the Y8 is a non metal gasket like the A6. Now one site / link I had come across also stated that there were different thicknesses between the Y8 and Z6 gaskets. However on THIS calculator I found it says they are the same thickness and there is apparently a 2 piece Y8 gasket that goes from 0.037 like the "other" Y8 gasket and the Z6 gasket to 0.025 thickness... I would prefer the thinner gasket of the 3 and also it be a metal one... Can someone help me out here and give some definitive answers on the different head gaskets and thicknesses? And that should more or less be it right? Please let me know if I missed anything detrimental ! I am doing this as my head gasket on my A6 has begun to leak and and after a 600ish mile trip this last weekend through today it has obviously gotten a little worse from driving on it. It never over heated and I have kept coolant in it but it does not like the A/C running when going up hill. I am an established mechanic and I prefer technician and have worked on vehicles professionally for a while (tho not currently my profession), and also had another hatch that I did a JDB B20 and GSR hydro tranny swap on. I had considered this simply for fun and picked up a complete engine (torn down to short block) and transmission less the harness with alternator and I think a ps pump from the car it came off of for all of $225. And since It failed the block test I did on it last Friday I figured I would bump this on the list.