I need help. My crank shaft is bad on my D16Y8 Engine the slot the Crank shaft key that the key slides into and "connects the Crank Pulley/Harmonic Balancer is worn down/out. It will cost 230 for parts 1100 for labor around 1330-1400 to replace. I would rather swap a B Series maybe a B16A1 2 or 3.....The problem is finding the motor...and all the things needed to fit in a 1996 Honda Civic 2 Door EX. THEN the next question i have...is the motor place NEAR me....has a D16Y7 a drop of 25 horses from my Y8...to me this is basically unacceptable...I want at least 150 horses PLUS VTEC preferably Dual Overhead Cam...which is why i want a B Series...because i dont think a DOHC D Series exists. I talked to the Honda Labor dept of my local repair center....and they said I would need a new ECU, mounts, maybe even a new transmission....I dont want to put over 1800 in...im just repairing soemthing thats broken by doing whats economically the most logic....like...why spend 1300-1500 to repair an engine with 206k miles when you can swap it for lets say 1400-1800 and get more HP, and more miles drive on the car....So I need help. I dont want to go over 1800...1000 for labor...and whatever else for the engine. Id rather have a B16A* motor but if i can find a DOHC with 110+ HP that i can EASILY and Cheaply bring up to 127 horses ill be cool....ANY ideas or suggestions? (I know 100 times more about computers then i do cars...so dont get tooooo technical) I can try to research what you are saying but i dont wanna spend 20 minutes typing this out and researching what i want then spend 1+ hours researching terms used. Thanks ahead for any help!
D16Y8 to B Series HELP
- Thread starter Balian
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If I put my old head on it what would that do with the 102-127 HP difference? I think i know enough that if i put my head on it...wouldn't that convert it to VTEC since my Head is VTEC with the solenoid and VTEC and all that there? I dont want to loose HP....If i can...id rather stay around the 125+ area....My sister has a D16Y7 i think...and its slow at everything....I mean i probably have more start up running with my own legs then that car does...I mean seriously...Im pretty sure the D16Y7 would be a fire and forget drop...but like I said what about the HP difference? and is the 1500 including the parts and labor or just the part itself??
Interesting.
But what about gas miliage? Shouldn't be any different right? So you meant I wont loose any HP right? Is there a cheap way of replacing the bottom half of my motor that changes out the part of the engine where the crank shaft is? (This is showing my true ignorance here) I dont know much...I would rather just go the cheapest route...if i dont have to get a new motor or take the bottom half of the engine apart to replace the crank shaft....couldn't i just replace the bottom half of the engine? Whatever the part name is called?
But what about gas miliage? Shouldn't be any different right? So you meant I wont loose any HP right? Is there a cheap way of replacing the bottom half of my motor that changes out the part of the engine where the crank shaft is? (This is showing my true ignorance here) I dont know much...I would rather just go the cheapest route...if i dont have to get a new motor or take the bottom half of the engine apart to replace the crank shaft....couldn't i just replace the bottom half of the engine? Whatever the part name is called?
OH I forgot to put this in my old message....but....I have found B Series motors for around 650 or so...no B Series trannys...Ill need a new tranny if i get a B Series right? Which will add another 300-900....right? A Engine part place told me a BSeries engine should just drop in to my Civic....as long as i replace the ECU and a few others....
a b series you will need new mounts axles shift linkage new ecu and you might have to do some wiring depending on what year the motor is and new tranny. the easest and best way to get it back like it was is to put your y8 vtec head on to the y7 block. or just get another d16y8 full motor for 5-700 bucks
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
soooo your cranks keyway is fucked....yea time for a new crank, if your payin someone else to do any work id get a b series. if you were to swap cranks yourself it be easier. a b series wopuld fit in a 96 no prob with the proper mounts
there is a small key/pin that holds it
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ok....i have talked to the "Honda" guy in the neighborhood...and he said that the back washer (behind the balancer) is needed to keep the balancer from keep popping off....or becoming loose...now...for more detail about the condition of the crankshaft....the wear of the key slot looks like this
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Meaning it is warn down 30-40% on one side and the other is warn only 25%...when you put a key in....the key slides in and STAYS in tight and snug...then how it was installed before we just put the balancer on...we didn't have the washer...from what i have been told since we didn't put the other washer on (that has the key slot in the washer) thats why the key keeps getting loose and slips out...and the balancer then becomes loose again....does this sound accurate?
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Meaning it is warn down 30-40% on one side and the other is warn only 25%...when you put a key in....the key slides in and STAYS in tight and snug...then how it was installed before we just put the balancer on...we didn't have the washer...from what i have been told since we didn't put the other washer on (that has the key slot in the washer) thats why the key keeps getting loose and slips out...and the balancer then becomes loose again....does this sound accurate?
what im asking is does it sound accurate that my problem is mostly because of not having that back washer on (between crank shaft and balancer)
IF I get a back side washer for it...and put it on...with the 30-40 and 25% wear on the crank shaft slot will i have problems in the near future if i have it put back on with a NEW key...and a new washer put on?
IF I get a back side washer for it...and put it on...with the 30-40 and 25% wear on the crank shaft slot will i have problems in the near future if i have it put back on with a NEW key...and a new washer put on?
As I said before...the slot where the key slides into is "chewed" but the key slide in fine...and was snug and tight...and was only word about 25% on one side and between 30-40 maybe 50% on the other side...my neighbor (not the honda guy) said that i could technically weld more steel to the steel crankshaft...then shape it and smooth it out to fit the key better....IF i needed to do that since i dont have 2 grand to fork into fixing this by swapping. Ill have the Honda guy check it out and tell me if its worn to much...but thanks for your help. I like your avatar btw....
HATCHET_HONDA
scottie fizzle
if the slot where that key goes on the crank is fucked up i dont think the washer will help any. how did it get all chewed up to begin with? the crank pulley rarely needs to be removed
yo dude i have that same prob on my y8. I tryd the weld and it didnt hold, you need like 440 to keep it on and that kind of temp. damages the crank so dont do it. Just replace it or swap it.I know thats the last thing you want to here cuz it was for me, but you got to do what you got to do. Hate to be the bad news bear.
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