1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

D16z6 Edelbrock Build

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by teald16z6, Jul 16, 2010.

  1. teald16z6

    teald16z6 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    Hey guys, new here. my first post.

    I have been told this site is what im looking for.

    I have a 93 teal/green si coupe with a d16z6.

    The car has 451k on it, the engine km is unknown But runs great the entire 30k ive put on it.

    It has a Aem coldair intake
    Ractive stainlessteel 4-2-1 headers.
    And a full catback exhaust with a test pipe.

    I just ran into a new job, and will be having some extra money each paycheck for the next while. I am looking into building my civic, into the perfect everyday driven car, with comfort, reliability and about 210+whp.

    Im going to base my build around a edelbrockD16 turbo kit

    This is that ive broken down my buy into....

    1. 2way viper 350 alarm with keyless entry.

    Anyone have any thing to say about that alarm?

    2. -Aem tru-time adjustable cam gears
    -Aem high volume fuel rail
    -New rad hoses
    -Rc engeneering fuel injectors 440

    3.-Clutch masters stage 3 FX300 Clutch kit
    -Hondata civic p28 ecu w/obd1 connecter
    -Aem high volume fuel pressure regulator

    4.-Tein basic coilovers
    -Energy suspension polyeuathane master bushing set.

    Last but not least.

    5.Edelbrock D16 turbo kit & Walbro 255 high pressure fuel pump.

    I will be buying each small build, and upgrading the car slowly, over the next year. as i have shown.

    Do you guys have any problems you can see.
    Or any other things to point out, im trying to save as much money if possible.

    BTW i forgot to add a new headgasket and apr headstuds will be bought with the first buy.

    Thanks guys!

    2.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. EP3Hatch1987

    EP3Hatch1987 Meeeeooowww!!!!!

    Messages:
    284
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2008
    if you want more then 210whp.. your gunna need some rods and pisons.. cause the stock rods can only handle bout 200whp and thats pushing it.. depending on the tune.. but if you want reliablitity on a DD your gunna need rods and pistons..
     
  3. mntlkase

    mntlkase Local neighborhood prick!

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Location:
    New Orleans, La
    If you want to bust 210hp, toss that single slam uin the trash all together. Get yourself a b20\ls vtec, some cams, and a good tune. You will be much happier with it, and it will be MUCH more RELIABLE. This coming from a guy who had a 95 coupe w\ a boosted d16z6 and now has a built b20vtec.
     
  4. mntlkase

    mntlkase Local neighborhood prick!

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Location:
    New Orleans, La
    If you want to bust 210hp, toss that single slam in the trash all together. Get yourself a b20\ls vtec, some cams, and a good tune. You will be much happier with it, and it will be MUCH more RELIABLE. This coming from a guy who had a 95 coupe w\ a boosted d16z6 and now has a built b20vtec.
     
  5. mntlkase

    mntlkase Local neighborhood prick!

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Location:
    New Orleans, La
    Sorry bout x2 post. Postin from my phone and it actin up
     
  6. 95EGCoupeVtec

    95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best

    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    i have to disagree with these two guys. there are plenty of people running z6's boosted and they are DD. if you want more info, just keep looking on here. i think for you rmoney, the edelbrock kit it expensive and not much hp. get a peakboost kit or check out go-autoworks. he got kits for 2g's that you can get 200whp easy. you might also want to add some ARP racing brand head studs to your list bc otherwise your head bolts will stretch from the stress and blow your head gasket.
     
  7. mntlkase

    mntlkase Local neighborhood prick!

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Location:
    New Orleans, La
    Im not knocking the single slam boost setup. My first car was a 95coupe that I learned how to build engines with, and it made good power. 180-190ish, it was a fun car, im just saying that for the 2k or so for turbo setup,and 4-500 tuning, the average beginning driver could spend that 2500 to completely build a crvtec setup, and tune it, and still be under the radar of law enforcement cuz theres no obvious intercooler, or bov tellin everyone what u got. Either way you decide to go, take your time and do it right the first time, and hopefully you will be happy with your results. Glwb man.
     
  8. 95EGCoupeVtec

    95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best

    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    yeah you can probably get more than 200whp, that's real conservative numbers. 225 is easily achievable and for a daily driver i'd keep it around that. anymore than that and you should build for low compression. and to do that you can get a vitara piston/fj rod combo for around 700-800 and get someone to notch your block and bore it out and put it together for ya. and then you're good till 400whp or until the sleeves fall out lol.
     
  9. mntlkase

    mntlkase Local neighborhood prick!

    Messages:
    75
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Location:
    New Orleans, La
    or a valve seat lets go and embeds a valve into a piston! lol
     
  10. 95EGCoupeVtec

    95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best

    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    this is true. better to stay around 350whp or so...
     
  11. teald16z6

    teald16z6 New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2010
    I have tons of freinds with b18c's and all that big stuff, but i just want to learn on my car and have it a dd in the end, but take it to the track every once in a while.

    Im going to scrap that turbo kit, and build a custom kit, and with the money i save ill get some pistons and rods, aswell as a cam. I was thinking about the whp i want to acheive, i think 190 would be ok, the car is light as ever and pretty preppy now.

    Apart from the turbo kit, what do you say about those brands and parts i picked out?

    thanks a ton
     
  12. 95EGCoupeVtec

    95EGCoupeVtec SOHC VTEC at its best

    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Location:
    South Mississippi
    2. -Aem tru-time adjustable cam gears
    not neccesary for your hp goal
    -Aem high volume fuel rail
    not necessary
    -New rad hoses
    recommended if yours need replacing
    -Rc engeneering fuel injectors 440 will be plenty

    3.-Clutch masters stage 3 FX300 Clutch kit
    i would go with same clutch i have, for 350 its amazing. or go with stg4 it has a 6 puck disk instead of 4 puck and the engagement isn't as harsh.
    -Hondata civic p28 ecu w/obd1 connecter
    just send your ecu off to phearable.net or xenocron.com and get it chipped for your setup and then get someone to tune. Hondata is great but for mild setups it is overkill.
    -Aem high volume fuel pressure regulator
    again, not necessary.

    4.-Tein basic coilovers suspension upgrade is recommended
    -Energy suspension polyeuathane master bushing set.
    not necessary, but i would get inserts for your torque mounts OR just get hasport mounts. if your stockers are worn you engine will wanna jump the hell out from under your hood. i know from experience :)

    for good measure, i'd at least change your head bolts our with ARP brand head studs and go ahead and put a new head gasket in while your there.

    also, if high temperatures during the summer is an issue, or again for good measure, go ahead and get a new radiator and slim fan also.

    lastly, you will need a walbro 255lph fuel pump to be able to flow enough for your car when its in boost.
     
  13. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    -Energy suspension polyurerthane master bushing set.

    I can recommend this from personal experience. Installation is a lot of work, but well worth the effort.

    Have a decent 10 ton press and needed to take the front lower arms to the machine shop for assistance. The rest of the bushings came out by drilling around the outet part with a 5/16 drill bit. Then, tear 'em out and do a little cleanup with a sanding drum. Especially on the rear arms. Then where surface is scratched through, a little rust-o-leum paint before installing new bushings.

    Use lots of the silicon grease provided with the kit on re-assembly.

    I also installed a set of KYB struts when I did the bushings on my '91 hatch. Re-did brakes, flex lines, wheel bearings, etc. Replaced boots on steering rack and such. Ball joints were ok, so I'll wait till engine swap to do them.

    Car drives tight now - better than new.

    I freshened up the rolling chassis first. Then, I'll add horsepower.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2010
  14. c-rex-beat

    c-rex-beat yeah, it's a vtec.

    Messages:
    152
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    tyler, TX
    remember with cams, it is good do do valves too. While your that far, go ahead annd port match intake/exhaust. Fairly cheap around here.
     
  15. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Adjustable cam timing pulley(s) are a nice addition. No, absolutely NOT necessary - but, what is?

    They allow you to tweak the cam timing and if you're into tuning at all, that's a good way to go.

    The cam in my D16A6 is 1-2 degrees advanced - more driveable - better low end and the high end is about the same.

    Depends upon how much tuning you want to do with it - I like to tune my stuff - other's don't.

    :)
     
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page