D16Z6 rebuild questions

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htrcivic96sir

Senior Member
I was told today that the EAGLE h-beam rods i bought for my car ( with out this cat even seeing them) will bump the bottom of the cylinder wall in my D16Z6. Is this fact or am I getting bad " we doesn't do dem imports to often" advice. The rods are stock length and all that jazz and was told by my salesman these are a direct replacement for the stockers with no modification. While Im on the subject of the rods, one of the FAQs says #3 honda bearings are the choice for an eagle rod on " all other motors" except for b16 and b20 (#2's ). Does this apply to my engine (just checking) and does this pertain to ALL four rods or should the clearances be properly sized and then install the corresponding bearing? If anyone has these rods (" turbo tuff" series) installed in their D16Z6 I'd appreciate feedback on any little quirks there are to installing them. thanx for any help!
 
yeah...sadly that is the case...its a fault of a d-series. its one of the main reasons people just boost till it blows rather than build it up.
 
damn!! doesn't matter, I'm just gonna do it myself. I'd gather that this can be completed by installing the rods (tempory) before finishing my rebuild, marking the lowest point of the piston stroke to make sure I don't grind to far and then notch it till the rods clear, disasemble , smooth out my notches, and continue with my rebuild. will this jeopardize any strength in the cylinders? I've got a good referance photo from R&D that shows how much they notched a D series for one of their stroker kits. I'd imagine that i don't have to notch as deep as they did but its always good to ask questions. Does this sound like a plan or is there another route I should take?

by the way thanks for the info Blanco and Reikoshea. :worthy: greatly appreciated
 
Ive looked for the rod bearings at NAPA and Advance, I even checked at hondaautmotiveparts.com . They list the rod bearings in ABC's and not in numbers or colors. Local stores just sell them as packages and looked at me like I was speaking greek when I said " green or #3's" . Where can i get them at a reasonable price and have the salesman know what Im talking about?? check here to see if you can figure it out :shrug2:
 
we can get the bearings, but we arent distributors so we couldnt give you any type of deal.

you can get a good deal at tunerschoice.com
 
what rods did you get? - Eagle has 2 different rods for the D-series - the ones with the 5/16" bolts don't require block notching - only the ones with the 3/8" bolts
 
Ok ... I think I got it. For example, say I buy the ACL ( standard Green ) . all are well inside of the .002 service limit except for #1 cylinder. It measures .0019 which is obviously to close to the service limit. Would it be ok or total catastrophy to run the motor at this measurement , providing it is a relativly close measurement with the other journals?( ex; .0019,.0017,.0017,.0018) Or should they all be perfectly the same and closer to the .0015 guage reading you mentioned in your example? ( ex; .0016,.0016, etc. )

another thing . the clearance specs on the sheet that came with my rods say;
" rod bearing clearance: .002 - .003 "
Why is that? It sounds like EAGLE is saying they should be BETWEEN .002 and .003?
FOR jilicrx: they are 3/8, " ARP 2000 "
 
The clearances stated by Eagle boggle me too.... but any way, Im not blue prining or anything, this is just my first rebuild on my own and i wanted to make sure everything was as close to right as possible. So if my clearances are off from each other about .0001 I should be good right?
 
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