D16z6 swap questions

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esi42

esi42

Member
Hey whats up guys, I have just a couple question about swapping a z6 into my 88 lx.

I have a 93 ex parts car with a good engine and clutch with all wiring etc. I also have all the parts needed to convert my dpfi to mpfi: jdm zc intake manifold and dizzy, all plugs needed cut from an si harness, resistor box, and a pr4 ecu.

If i convert my lx to mpfi, i have to wire in the resistor box to use the obd0 injectors. Im going with the obd1 injectors and ecu, so my question is do I have to wire in the resistor box?

Then if i go obd1, could I splice in the cruise control from the ex?

On the 93 ex, there isnt a speedo cable, just a sensor there with a wire. Im going to be using a cable tranny. I know that if that sensor isnt plugged in, vtec doesnt engage. How can I show the computer the car is moving?

My last question, Im using the 14" rims from the 93 ex on my 88 lx. Could I swap over the larger calipers and rotors to my 88 lx?

Alright, sorry about the long post. Any comments appreciated.

Thanks

D
 
That is not the proper set up for that engine. I appreciate the comment though. It will run it, but not the way it should be. I want to do it right. I originally built the engine for my friend and it was fast as hell in his car. I want it to be the same as that, but in the lighter chassis. The engine has a milled jdm head with a stage 2 P&P, header and cold air intake with a stage 3 clutchmasters and phantom grip lsd and si tranny. I have a chipped p28 already and the obd0 - obd1 jumper harness. in addition to all the items I mentioned in the first post.

I guess my main question, do I need to wire in the resistor box for the dpfi-mpfi + obd0-obd1 swap?(phew!), is the most important.

Thanks again guys and gals
 
Doing the MPFI swap and going right to OBD1 you will not need the resistor box. Part of the OBD0 to OBD1 swap procedures is to cut the 4 red/black stripe ground wires from the injectors going to the resistor box and soldering them together, eliminating the resistor box.
Just be sure to check and re-check your wiring for DPFI to MPFI. And remember, if the motor turns over but doesn't seem to catch, swap the two white wires at the distributor.
I'm doing a similar swap but decided to do the MPFI swap first, ride the car for a week or so to verify everything was working properly, then convert to OBD1. I had everything for the swaps so it was just a matter of $30 for gaskets.

As for the EX to LX brake swap, you'll need to swap the front knuckles. Most people say that you'll need the larger EX master cylinder as well.
 
Ill take a look at the front knuckles tonight. I thought maybe it was possible to just switch the calipers and buy some C/d slotted brembos. Ill check if that is possible, otherwise ill try and swap the knuckles. I have the whole 93 ex and a set of speed bleeders so if I have to put in the master cyl, thats no prob

So you are saying all the injector grounds are soldered together when going to obd1. Do you have to connect them to something, or just route them to an empty spot in the harness?

Thanks again
 
I am glad to hear you want to run obd1. I have run both on a 91 civic with a z6 and obd1 is much better. I am running obd0 on my recently swapped z6 into the crx but I am lazy and am just using it for a daily driver. They are all right about how to wire it.
 
The brakes I wanted to swap were from the 93 ex coupe I got the engine out of. The knuckles will not fit, they are too tall. Im waiting for my conversion harness for obd1 so I can check it against the pinout chart from one of those links. Pulled the engine tonight, other parts later this week. Ill be selling whats left of the 93 ex in the sale section if someone needs something.

Thanks
 
Definitely take the road to OBD 1 and don't use the injector resistor box. I had the same engine setup but I listened to all the info and ran the '91Si mini-me setup after doing the mpfi swap. After 20k miles I finally decided to go OBD 1 and I couldn't be happier! I average over 33 mpg now (was 22 before)! The only big issue I had during the OBD setup was the dizzy wiring. I used the original dx harness wiring (it's a shielded cable too), but I had to add two dizzy wires. The separate shielded cable I ran worked just fine under the mini-me setup, but when I did the swap the OBD 1 ecu didn't like it. Kept throwing cel 9 and cel 4 codes randomly. Come to find out the O2 sensor ground and the dizzy cable ground are grounded twice in the old dx harness. Once in the engine compartment and again at the ecu. This dual ground gave me all kinds of fits until I ran a separate shielded cable JUST for the dizzy. Making certain I grounded it only at the ecu and with no other wires with it (i.e. the O2 sensor ground), I was happy to have no more problems. Definitely pulls much harder than the mini-me setup I had before.

Good luck!
 
I got my obd0-obd1 conversion harness now. It has 9 wires coming off that are run to the engine bay.

Wire color Function

Blue 02 sensor heater control
White 02 snesor signal
Violet Vtec solenoid signal
Gray Vtec pressure switch signal
Green Intake air bypass signal
Orange Knock snesor signal
Red Power(Inakte air bypass, 02 sensor)
Black Ground(Service Check, Vtec pressure switch, 02 sensor)
Yellow Service Check signal


Does everything look alright to you guys? Any suggestions would help


It also says this:

"Please note that some sensor wires were interchanged in the wire harness to simplify installation of the new distributor for both OBD1 and OBD2. CKP-P with CYP-P and CKP-M with CYP-M to be able to wire the ditributor with matched color"

I have no idea what this means or wtf the acronyms are. If someone knows what this does let me know

Thanks
 
Ok, so I know how to swap to mpfi now. Im in the process of building my obd1 engine harness and Im wondering about a few things stated in the above post.

The interchanged wires the harness maker was talking about, CKP-P with CYP-P and CKP-M with CYP-M are the blue/yellow and blue/green wires on the 0bd0 and obd1 dizzy plug. Are they basically the same with just different names?
If he switched the pins at the ecu harness so they line up, do I just swap my obd0 ecu pins like I normally would for c1 and c2(which are the ones he interchanged) into b10 and b12, then move b2 and b11 to the c1 and c2 plug spots, cut and solder wires and run all 4(inlcuding a3 and a7)to the engine bay like I normally would?

Also is the IAB different than the EACV? I just used the eacv wires that were already in the lx harness. Ive already extended both the eacv and the tps like i did for my other mpfi swap?

Where do I ground the injectors since Im not using the resistor box. I know I solder them all together, but where do they go after that? Are the yellow/black wires coming from the lx harness "hot"?

I dont think my d16z6 has a knock sensor, so can I just depin that wire? He included a plug at the firewall for the extra connections needed.
Thanks again in advance, Im sure Ill lhave more questions later

:tpp:
 
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