d16z6 vtec help

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CrixSi91

CrixSi91

Junior Member
I just installed a d16z6 in my 91 rex. i have everything hooked up except the vtec. i have no idea how to hook it up. so i am asking for help. what do i need to hook up the vtec correctly? anything will help diagrams, pics, ect. thanks
 
we have this covered 1000 times try to search a little,, you just need to run a few new wires to the proper pin out on the vtec ecu
 
i have searched around a bit but i just keep getting confused. i am not sure what ecu to use. i have a p28 and one for a b16, i think its a pr3. if someone can help me with that than i guess i can try and figure out the rest.
 
one other thing were the hell is the knock senor located on the d16z6. i can't seem to find the damn thing.
 
I dont think he can use the p28 unless he swapped harness'. And if that was the case, than he would not need to run vtec wires. Also, it is in an obd0 car (91 crx).

If you have your stock harness and want to run obd1 you will need a jumper harness for the ecu and vtec wires will have to be run to the ecu.
Search the threads for vtec wiring, it is covered here im sure.
 
yes i am using the p28 ecu. i just got off the phone with rywire.

i ordered the obdo to obdo1 ecu conversion harness, vtec subharness w/ correct o2 sensor plug which is plug and play w/ the ecu conversion harness and a 4 wire 02 sensor.

eveything i have listed will take care of vtec problem right? and were is the knock sensor located on the d16z6? i have yet to find it and that might be because i'm not sure what i am looking for either. does anyone have any pics of the knock sensor or its location. i am new to the whole car motor swap, i am used to working on motorcycles and atv's.
 
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ok so there is no knock sensor. do i have to add one when using the p28 ecu? everything i find says something about a knock sensor.
 
ok you have a point. just to let you know that link didn't work. its ok i get the point, there is no knock sensor. well thanks for all the help. i guess we'll see how everything goes when the rest of my parts get here.
 
well i just got my parts from rywire. the conversion harness for the ecu plugged right in and the vtec wires hooked right up. that company sure knows there shit. we will see if she starts and runs in the next couple days or so. i have to finish relocating my batteries.
 
it cost me $165.00 for the obd1 vtec subharness and the obd0 to obd1 ecu conversion harness and thats with shipping
 
yes they r great, everything i ordered plugged right up and i didn't have to cut any wires. I'll see how everything works tomorrow, i have to pick up my throw out bearing before i lower my motor in. i just redid my center console take a look.
 

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well i got everything in and hooked up. it turns over but does not start. i have spark, fuel and everything is in time. i just can't get it to start. i gave up for today. after messing with it for a couple hours and getting frustrated. i say its time to give up before i fuck something up. i'll go back out tomorrow with a clear head.
 
Do you have a check engine light? If not, at least check for vacuum leaks I had that problem with my swap til I tee-bracketed all the extra lines. That caused my car to crank but not start.
 
well i rechecked all my grounds and all the sensors/connections. i got it running but now i have an irregular idle. it idles fine until it warms up. then the idle jumps from 1k to about 3k then back to 1k. any ideas?
 
Vaccum

That def sounds like vaccum problem for sure---- another thing the colant lines to the throttle body if those are backwards can cause that to---- Installed a Skunk2 manifold on a z6 and put coland lines backwards reved to 4500 and almost died scared the crap out of me lol----- Just check vaccum and hose diagrams in a chilton book---
 
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