D16Z6 Winter Stored, No Start

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

jtornado

New Member
Gotta a d16z6 in my eg hatch that i've been storing for winter. I used Fuel Stabalizer and has about a 1/2 a tank of gas. I always start it up every 2 weeks. Went to go start it up a few days ago. Started right up and then died after couple seconds.
Checked the Following:
Fuel=only checked the fuel pump and clicks on for about 2 secs then shuts off. I also checks the plugs and found a little gas on the plugs, also can smell it.
Spark=pulled one plug connected it to the wire and grounded it on the block and got blue/white spark.
ECU=no CEL, when key on CEL clicks on than off and I can hear the relay click.
MAP= reference voltage got 5v to the yellow/red wire. signal voltage got 2v to white wire.
TPS=reference voltage got 5v to the yellow/white wire.

I know the timing is on and I know my timing belt isn't bad, replaced it about 8K miles ago, I know the timing isn't off cause no one messed with my car and it just started up 2 weeks ago. Also I did check the ignition and cam timing. So If i have spark, fuel, perfect timing. What else should I check. The one thing I know I didn't do yet is a compression test!


Update. Disconnected the wires from the injectors and tried to start it, well it sounds like it wanted to pop cause it was on the verge of starting, so I connected the wires back to the injectors and the same thing happened. Acted like it wanted to start.

Another update. Check the voltage from the ICM and 1 of the 3 tests failed so ill be getting a new (Ignition Control Module) and see if that is actually one of the problems...... I hope so
 
Last edited:
lol my bad, forgot to mention I already put new plugs in. I checked my ICM and pretty sure it failed the voltage test to the secondary wire but got voltage to the primary and that would still give spark right??? Well either way im trying a different ICM tomorrow to see where that gets me.
 
Ya I put a different ICM in and nothing better or nothing worse. I have been thinking well If it failed the Voltage Test, am I even getting voltage to the connector and the answer is NO. The 2 Connectors from the distributor, 1 has 7 wires going to it from the harness and the other has 2 wires, Black/yellow and Blue. Well I knew that the black/yellow will have power because it passed the voltage test but I check it anyway and Yes it does have power, But the wire that failed the test is from the 7 wire connector, White/blue and that didn't have any voltage from harness as a matter of fact The only wire from the 2 connectors that had voltage was the Black/yellow wire fromt the 2 wire connector. So it wasn't the ICM. Could it be just a short somewhere or has any ever had a problem like this. If so let me know cause I could use some help.
 
I had a similar issue this year, parked in the driveway for a few weeks with 1/2 tank of gas, and it turned out to be water in the gas. lots of dry gas seemed to help
 
So basically your saying put higher octane fuel and then try it????? Cause Higher grade fuel is basically deader fuel am I right??? Higher grade fuel is slower burn too.
 
dry gas, just helped remove the water condensation/vapor etc.... you don't necessarily need a higher octane fuel
 
Okay pretty sure we called the parts store and there is no such this as dry gas. Wouldn't dry gas be another name for similar to isopropal in the red bottle but should I get the yellow bottle instead or will the parts store people know???
 
Okay I threw some Iso-heat and nothing better and nothing worse. I wanted to see if im getting gas cause I know I have good spark now after checking everything. I pulled the spark plugs out and number 1 cylinder had smoke come out but it wasn't thick smoke it was a very thin smoke with a gas smell and none of the other ones did that. Could I have a bad injector?????? I also disabled the spark to the cylinders and to see if im getting any gas and I cranked it over for 10 seconds or so and pulled out all the plugs and they were very very little wet. Not even a strong gas odor. I think im gonna have to check the fuel pressure. What does everyone else think???
 
I had this problem on my car last winter. Did you check your fuses? That is what happened to my crx. I blew my ECU fuse and it just turned and nothing more. I did all that other stuff by replacing plugs, wires, cap and rotar, and even the battery. Here it was only a fuse. O well, new stuff makes me happy.
 
I checked the fuses and all are good. I know its not a fuse cause when I disconnect the connector to the injectors it almost starts and when I keep turning it over it doesn't want to start, so than I put the injector connectors back on and it almost starts again but when I keep turning it over it doesn't wanna start. What if im getting too much fuel or could I be getting to less fuel cause the plugs are barely wet but not dry
 
the only time i've had the ohgodit'salmostgonnastart issue was when my main relay was bad. that's all i got for ya :shrug2:
 
would the main relay throw a code and can I test it???
 
yeah, i've never seen/gotten a code regarding the main relay. you just kinda 'know' that one. as for testing, i happened across a used one a few years back, and then i bought one, and then i took one from a rex i was parting out, so yeah. swap and test. or clean yours up and put it back in to see if it fixes the issue.
 
fuel pumps are notorious for spectacular failure; ie, when they're done, they're done. relays, however, can be flaky. so if you hear the fuel pump coming on, it's still good.
 
So your saying that if I hear the fuel pump click on that the fuel pump is still good but that doesn't mean that the relay is good??????
 
Back
Top