just curious, whats the most ppl have seen from an NA build for a d17 non-vtec, ive heard about 140whp, and thats swapping to a d17a2 head, then an n/a build, im just wondering if it would be more worthwhile building a f/i d17 or maybe swap to a k20a jdm, and n/a or f/i that instead of n/a building a d.
D17 NON-VTEC question
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D17? Never heard of such a motor, if they made one don't know where you could get it. There is a swap called a minime that involves swapping the head off of a z6 onto the d15 block, it will bump up your hp. I don't think it will make it to 140hp though. The only stock d series motors that came with 130-140hp was the z6, y8, versions of the dohc zc and possibly d16a6(?). The zc is hard to tell because they made several versions of it.
If your going to do turbo without swapping any internals, you could probably go up to 200hp on a d. I wouldn't do a k without serious cash.
If your going to do turbo without swapping any internals, you could probably go up to 200hp on a d. I wouldn't do a k without serious cash.
FObangah
Member
I've been researching this same thing a lil' because my girl owns a 05 LX and as far as D17's go, I haven't seen much but have spoke to a guy in my area that dynoed his n/a 04 LX at a local car show and saw 172whp. I caught up with him and he gave me a mouth full of machine shop work, aftermarket clutch/flywheel, header/testpipe/exhaust , EMS, and also showed me the custom individual throtlle body setup he payed to have fabbed up. He spent "K20 swap" money on this thing so N/A wise, I would swap. Turbo wise, you may be able to keep what you have due to the fact that your motor will except alot of the parts made for d16 engines. I just recently built a D16Z6, with the helpfull advice from alot of the guys here at HS, for turbo and only spent about $1200( minus turbo and parts). Its now in a 93 4 door civic with a rev hard turbokit that was dynoed on a Mustang dyno and the terd kicked back a maximum of 273 whp ( cant rember the RPM) and an average of 265 whp in 4 runs at roughly 62 degrees. Of course, this was after tunning the AEM EMS he was running. I'd imagine you could be really close to that figure for not much more money. On the other hand, you could see 240-ish whp out of a K-series built for natural asparation. It would be a little shy in the HP department but would MORE then make up for it in axle-twisting torque. You could swap and boost to see massive numbers. A "worth while" decision all depends on how much money you're willing to spend. Hell, you could just trade the whole damn thing in for a gently used S2000!!!
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Had no Idea they made a d17. I still would not build a d series unless you are doing something mild, parts are hard to come by and are expensive when you really want to build it up. Just coming from what I have done to mine. I think the b series is still the way to go.
K2e2vin
Senior Member
D17s heads suck. Take the Crankshaft/rods/pistons/oil pump, stuff them into a D16 block, Z6 or Y7 head.
I think some guy made like over 200hp with a 78mm bore, 14:1 CR, Weber carbs, and D17 crankshaft in a D16. It shouldn't be too difficult to hit +140whp with off the shelf parts(using D16 block and head).
For those that don't know; the D15/16 heads will not bolt up correctly to D17 blocks due to oil and coolant passages being in different areas.
Swapping to a K-series will probably yield more power, even in NA form, but will cost a shit load more. A built D-series can hit over 200whp street on pump gas(proved by Bisi), but will take a lot of work. On the other hand, a K20A-R with tuning and off the shelf cams is also capable of over 200whp with relative ease, but costs a whole lot more. Which engine you pick will depend on the power level you want and how much money you're willing to spend.
I think some guy made like over 200hp with a 78mm bore, 14:1 CR, Weber carbs, and D17 crankshaft in a D16. It shouldn't be too difficult to hit +140whp with off the shelf parts(using D16 block and head).
For those that don't know; the D15/16 heads will not bolt up correctly to D17 blocks due to oil and coolant passages being in different areas.
Swapping to a K-series will probably yield more power, even in NA form, but will cost a shit load more. A built D-series can hit over 200whp street on pump gas(proved by Bisi), but will take a lot of work. On the other hand, a K20A-R with tuning and off the shelf cams is also capable of over 200whp with relative ease, but costs a whole lot more. Which engine you pick will depend on the power level you want and how much money you're willing to spend.
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