Dart block? worth it?

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BamaBoy22

New Member
i was just looking around online and found a b18 dart aluminum block for like 1999. It doestn seem that bad of a deal when you can get a b16a for like 1650. i was thnkin take the head of that throw it on the dart block, and selling the b6 block. Now is this block like bulletproof? I want to boost my car, and before i do anything im looking at all my options.
 
how long wil the sleeves last do you think, and would stock internals suffice or do they need to upraded as well
 
only problem with resleving a block is u can get into even more money to keep everthing strait, i would just go with the dart. im going for the dart in a few months. there an honda tuner mag. that talks about how resleving can become more money and still not be good.
 
im going with the b18. with the 84mm, and stock height. all the interals can last. iwouldnt go past 12psi, but if u keep the stock internals, i would get a set of apr rod blots. i found that the internals were strong but for some reason the rod bolts just went that good.
 
what head and tranny are you going with....im thinkin either b16b 4grand or b16a2 2grand and selling eihter block. How much do oyu think i could get for either block with 30-35000 miles on them. Will this dart block with non oem internals...be bulletproof?
 
link to said article about how sleeving is bad please. :)

I saw it too, it's in the latest issue of "Hondatuning" magazine. They didn't say it was bad, just that it is difficult to make them perfect circle's and the wall thickness is not the same all the way around which may cause hot spot's and some other things that would make you want to buy a Dart block instead. Just "Hondatuning" trying to make it's sponsor's some money, that's all.....
 
with a dart block, you still need a donor motor... its a casting only. you'll need everything from the donor to make it work.
 
yeah i was thinkin about that. Seems like the most 'bulletproof" way to go, but just way to expensive i would end up spending like close to 8grand just getting the motor installed and paied for. I think im just going to go ls/vtech w/ b16a2 head and tranny and b18b longblock. Finish my turbo setup as far as bolt ons, and tuning. Run 5-8 psi tops around town, and like 15 maybe if im racing or soemthing. Plus since this swap is so cheap i think i will go ahead a replace the pistons, rings, rods, head studs, and hopefully the block will hold up for like a year or so until i can save up to get it sleeved. Then like 20 psi. ?????????? though, will ls stock sleeves/ will they hold up for that long w/ non stock internals?
 
yeah i was thinkin about that. Seems like the most 'bulletproof" way to go, but just way to expensive i would end up spending like close to 8grand just getting the motor installed and paied for. I think im just going to go ls/vtech w/ b16a2 head and tranny and b18b longblock. Finish my turbo setup as far as bolt ons, and tuning. Run 5-8 psi tops around town, and like 15 maybe if im racing or soemthing. Plus since this swap is so cheap i think i will go ahead a replace the pistons, rings, rods, head studs, and hopefully the block will hold up for like a year or so until i can save up to get it sleeved. Then like 20 psi. ?????????? though, will ls stock sleeves/ will they hold up for that long w/ non stock internals?
Have fun with that LS/VTEC, better build that bottom end up, cause the LS block was not meant for 8K+ revs, i mean sure it will work, but it will eventually give out, so make sure you build it so it will withstand the high revs, OR for WAY less money, you could just go with a GSR bottom end, put that B16 head on it. That way its built to take that kinda punishment.
 
good point...i thought about that too. ok i looked it up...that bottom end is 1000 bucks more. so what tranny would you suggest b16a2 or b18c. also , the stock internals on the gsr...how are the sleeves....are the pistons, rings, rods....stronger than the ls's internals. With low boost, and a conservative tune....what kinda time period do you think id be looking at before the b18c block goes kuput on stock internals and sleeves......stock sleeves, non stock internals.......non stock sleeves, non stock internals. thanx alot bro...this is some of the best feedback i have ever got on here.
 
what is the difference between the ls block and the b18c block. i mean oviouslt the compression ratio is different, the ls oviously having the lower of the two, which would be best for turbo in some opinions. the b18c probably has better sleeves stock and internals stock i would imagine considering the higher compression ratio and that it simply was made to be a better model engine than the ls. So are you just saying that the b18c sleeves are better and the block all around was just made to be better? cuz if the sleeves and the block itself will hold up on the ls and you are simply basing your arguement on the stock intenals. the diiference in the price of the two longblocks can get me pistons, rins, rods, head studs, and head gasket....with a lill left over for installation. So you see my perdicament. I mean (apparently) no matter what i do im going to eventually have to resleeve and change the internals....so wouldnt it make more since to initially go with the cheaper of the two blocks? Dman i always fel like people are on here just tryong to get me to buy the most expensive shit.....I really wish i could just ge a straight answer!
 
well its going to be daily driven, and i probably wont be needing that much power that often. I was planning on going with full race stage III ac, so that i guess it would be anywhere from 225-250 around town, and 300-close to 400 w/o stock internals im guessing.
 
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