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Desperately need help with h22 swapped accord

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by minitruckin, Oct 21, 2009.

  1. minitruckin

    minitruckin New Member

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    ok first off i am new and i really need help. i recently did a jdm h22a swap in my 96 accord ex coupe. i did all the wiring, changed over to a manual tensioner, replaced timing belt and water pump, installed a p13 ecu with jumper harness, used the accord throttle body with map sensor and made the throttle linkage bracket. my problem is that the car is not running on cylinder no. 2. checking with a heat gun it only gets to about 100 degrees. also did a compression test and every cylinder comes in below 90 pounds, with no. 2 below 60 pounds. the car seems to run decent at idle with a little shake and you can definitely tell it has a miss. need to fix this car asap as its my only transportaion and i need to visit my son out of town. any help would be awesome and greatly appreciated. thanks
     
  2. raysee

    raysee New Member

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    I may be wrong (so correct me if I am) but I think your compression numbers are REALLY REALLY low. I beleive they should be in the high 100's or low 200's. That is what I have read anyway. If I am right, you probably should replace your piston rings. I am not a real reliable source of info, but these are my thoughts.
     
  3. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

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    Where did the H22 come from? Were there any warrantees?
    Like Raysee said, I think it may be a bum motor too.. Sorry. I feel for ya..
    Ask around your neighbors or friends if they have any of those goofy coupon books that the kids sell for their school, look for the car rental ones and see if you can rent 1 from one company and then another if needed and on and on.

    Does it smoke? At that comp you should look like 007!! If not, pressurize a cyl @tdc by screwing in a air hose hooked to an air supply, open the throttle body and listen for a loud 'hissing' (valves not seated or burnt). Now try the oil cap. Any hissing from there? Yes?(ring blowby)

    Now, the air pressure will naturally try and cause the motor to spin to BDC
    (like filling a balloon) so you have to keep it stationary at TDC for each cyl.
    If not much hissin is apparent, try a leak-down tester. Does the same thing but is a little more complicated (work). It measures how much air or volume is bled off a particular cyl.

    E
     
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