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Does a b20 Swap NEED a tune?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Solomon93, Oct 10, 2016.

  1. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    Hey guys
    Stock B20B (2000)
    J1 B16 Cable Transmission
    93 INTEGRA MANIFOLDS
    1993 PR4 ECU
    Sock Intake
    2" Exhaust

    My Butt Dyno is VERY satisfied compared to the DPFI d15b2...

    Would it be worth it to grab a chipped ecu and get a tune?
    Will I gain much THAT from a mostly stock b20b?
    Don't want to dump money on the stupid I/H/E and an ECU +Tune $$$ if I'm not going to make reasonable gains over the stock setup above...

    In an EF hatch btw...
     
  2. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    typically not if you are going to leave it stock. but what do you consider "reasonable"? I/H/E might cost $500-$1000 and might net you 8-15 wheel horsepower and a smoother power band.
     
  3. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    Yea a tune really isnt needed till you get into higher end cams or forced induction, the stock ecu is smarter than you think
     
  4. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    Good to know. I think ill hold off on I/H/E and start piecing together a turbo kit to fit next summer. Looking to get around 250whp out of stock internals reliably for a few years.
     
  5. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    250whp reliable and on stock internals dont go in the same sentence together lol
     
  6. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    250 isn't too bad if you a GREAT tune. but it will definitely compromise the longevity of the stock engine.
     
  7. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    250 wheel horsepower on a B20 with 100% require pistons and rods, 10 psi will shatter a usdm b20 rod
     
  8. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    How can we talk psi when we havent even discussed turbo size? It was to my understanding 300-350whp was reliable out of a stock LS with a PROPER tune...
    I can see the b20 shattering a SLEEVE as there so thin, but a rod? I thought b20 rods were the SAME as b18a/b "LS" rods? I thought LS rods held up fine within stock revs... I am not planning to increase my red line nor am I "slapping in arp rod bolts without resizing the rod" resulting in eggshaped rod ends like many cheapskates do.
    But I am here to learn, so any advise is much appreciated. If I have stated something incorrect, please let me know, I don't wan't to mis-inform others.... Thanks
     
  9. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    You are fairly correct with your information but the roads are not the same as a LS on a B20 they are the weak point on the stock bottom end
     
  10. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    And I dont mean 10psi will kill a stock usdm b20 overnight , but do know its not going to last very long
     
  11. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    I thought the rods are the same?
     
  12. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    They are identical parts.

    That said, LS/b20b rods are not very strong, and usually fail at the rod bolt. Hence the bolt upgrade/re-sizing that happens commonplace. But that is usually from going VTEC head swap and having higher revs.

    Turbo is a different ball game if keeping the stock redline. 250whp is certainly do-able with a conservative tune to be on the safer side, assuming proper supporting equipment/cooling. The sleeves are weak points as are the rods, so it could be a ticking time bomb and i would have a ride to work on speed dial for when/if it does go up.
     
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  13. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    exactly couldnt have said it better
     
  14. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    Work is only ~15 miles, I have spare b18a/b's laying around, hell I have whole LS swaps at that. Not feared of replacing an engine, nor do i have to even source one.
    It only take 2hrs with the right tools to R&R the motor.
    With THAT said, should I just toss some forged rods/nippon pistons in one of the B18s, Boost that, Keep the B20 for backup?
     
  15. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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  16. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    depends on your goals. i've always advised someone to keep a car running and build a long block on the side. not everyone has the cash to just build everything needed for their whole build. If you do, more power to you.

    What I wouldn't do though is, wait until your engine blows up to start your build. especially if you have parts available to start doing it.
     
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  17. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    I figured I could make decent gains with low boost on a stock motor without issues. The only way to get more power now is Turbo or Vtec correct? Nos is out of the question.
    I figured LS/V is gaining from revs which = BOOM on stock internals.
    I figured Low Boosted B20 would have more longevity hence retaining my stock red line.
    Maybe I should just be happy with my B20 stock.
     
  18. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    Reliable would be like 6psi with a tune and it will last years
     
  19. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    225 whp is probably pretty safe and will last a long time.... and it's pretty damn fast too
     
  20. Solomon93

    Solomon93 New Member

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    dilbeckskate- No offense but everything you have said has been incorrect so far, all others and myself have done is correct you. How can you continue to talk psi without knowing what turbo I've chosen to go with? Please stop offering me your bad advise. I appreciate you trying to help, but you clearly aren't of help here. Thanks for trying to help.

    Brianso- thanks for the input/advise. Not looking for a racecar, but a daily that eases through the gears and brings a good smile to the face if I lay on it... Does this sound reasonable @ 225hp? If, so that will be my set goal.

    get_nick- appreciate your input on the rods, defiantly want to build a separate motor for while i continue to daily it..

    ARE WE CERTAIN the stock ecu is 100% safe to run? I cruise @ 4100 RPM on the freeway and at that rpm it seems to buck a bit, reminds me of a lean out situation.. Im going to pick up an air/fuel gauge soon to see where i'm really at.
     
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