Dual CARBED B20b
- Thread starter 78civic
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eg'sforlife
Active Member
if you could get them properly tuned you can get pretty good mpg's out of them
for the best economy i suggest switching to FI........if thats the type of milage your talking about
for the best economy i suggest switching to FI........if thats the type of milage your talking about
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
Sexy.
78civic
Junior Member
And who's Clayton?
I'll probably go with the FI, I was just messing around and dreaming a little.
It's just that I had the intake under all this crap and had the carbs from an old 1600 EL Canadian head that will be on my EK 1751 in a 79 cvcc 5spd.. (If I ever finish it..)
I really need to start putting stuff on Ebay!
E
I'll probably go with the FI, I was just messing around and dreaming a little.
It's just that I had the intake under all this crap and had the carbs from an old 1600 EL Canadian head that will be on my EK 1751 in a 79 cvcc 5spd.. (If I ever finish it..)
I really need to start putting stuff on Ebay!
E
78civic
Junior Member
So if I did 'do' the carb setup, what would be needed to trigger the ignition?? BOY, that would clean up the wiring in the engine compt..
Would one have to go to a crank triggering system?
AirJockie, I'll let you know when I put it up for sale on here or the Ebay.
I first have to get the B20b swap in and running reliable.
E
Would one have to go to a crank triggering system?
AirJockie, I'll let you know when I put it up for sale on here or the Ebay.
I first have to get the B20b swap in and running reliable.
E
78civic
Junior Member
OK, fast forward a few months.. Picked up a straight '85 1500s and a slightly 'bent' 89 teg for the usual swap and in my searching and learnin, I find that Haasport makes
B-series mounts and got to thinking more about the carb set up.
have all these parts just sitting that thought of the GSR build up for the "S". But if you knew how i HATE wiring I think you'd side with me in thinking of modding one of the NON
V tech, B-series heads that I have to the GSR block. (just since it's got the crank girdle) OR, I can go with my B-20 block and do the carbs (40's) and adapt the '84-87 dizzy to the B head and be up and running. (motor wise)
Either way, I'm probably looking at maybe 25mpg the way I drive.
Does anyone know if 'they' make cams for carb'd dohc's?
If not and I'm stuck with FI. I have some really wild intake mods to the GSR intake and it would be CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP in parts..
E
B-series mounts and got to thinking more about the carb set up.
have all these parts just sitting that thought of the GSR build up for the "S". But if you knew how i HATE wiring I think you'd side with me in thinking of modding one of the NON
V tech, B-series heads that I have to the GSR block. (just since it's got the crank girdle) OR, I can go with my B-20 block and do the carbs (40's) and adapt the '84-87 dizzy to the B head and be up and running. (motor wise)
Either way, I'm probably looking at maybe 25mpg the way I drive.
Does anyone know if 'they' make cams for carb'd dohc's?
If not and I'm stuck with FI. I have some really wild intake mods to the GSR intake and it would be CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP in parts..
E
I just thought it was a little funny. I know what you mean, I've got a ton of home and car projects that are half finished all over the place.
78civic
Junior Member
..Um, there is A HUGE difference. FI cams have to stay within the operational parameters of the ECU makers designs. That's why you guys have to get the FI ecu's ' chip 're-burned' or reprogrammed in some electrical way.
BUT, in a carb'd engine, you have to remember that NOW that the motor is carb'd, the cam HAS TO be designed in a way to draw or suck the fuel (causing the atomization) instead of just opening up a valve for a spray or charge of fuel to be shot in the port/combustion chamber. (yes, I understand the FI motor still sucks air in)
ANYONE have any info on carb grinds for the B-series heads? Doesn't really matter if it's for the GSR or B-18, 20's.
Just wanted to use the crank girdle for strength, but it can change to the other B engines..
UNLESS there might be a way to 'trigger' the V-tech solenoid from a tach or linkage.
Thanks
BUT, in a carb'd engine, you have to remember that NOW that the motor is carb'd, the cam HAS TO be designed in a way to draw or suck the fuel (causing the atomization) instead of just opening up a valve for a spray or charge of fuel to be shot in the port/combustion chamber. (yes, I understand the FI motor still sucks air in)
ANYONE have any info on carb grinds for the B-series heads? Doesn't really matter if it's for the GSR or B-18, 20's.
Just wanted to use the crank girdle for strength, but it can change to the other B engines..
UNLESS there might be a way to 'trigger' the V-tech solenoid from a tach or linkage.
Thanks
78civic
Junior Member
Here's another theory..
A distributor is a distributor, so it doesn't gain rotational resistance like an alternator making it real easy to rotate.
SO, all that's needed is to make an adapter to mate the B head (or really end of the cam) to one of my mid '80's distributor.
The contactor is just a circular "T" as we've all seen, but it's only held on by a pin that can be pressed out.
The EW distributors have that cute little double vacuum advance that isn't the best for performance minded builds.
SO, I'm heading out to see if I can locate an Accord dizzy that the advance can is still holding vacuum and either use the advance
linkage, or the whole thing.
That way I can adapt it to the B head and fire the plugs..
I'm also thinking that a 4-rib alternator from a mid 80's prelude/Accord should be able to be adapted also.
Just need to look at the plug..
Looking for some GOOD advise from KNOWLEDGEABLE engine builders.
Errol
A distributor is a distributor, so it doesn't gain rotational resistance like an alternator making it real easy to rotate.
SO, all that's needed is to make an adapter to mate the B head (or really end of the cam) to one of my mid '80's distributor.
The contactor is just a circular "T" as we've all seen, but it's only held on by a pin that can be pressed out.
The EW distributors have that cute little double vacuum advance that isn't the best for performance minded builds.
SO, I'm heading out to see if I can locate an Accord dizzy that the advance can is still holding vacuum and either use the advance
linkage, or the whole thing.
That way I can adapt it to the B head and fire the plugs..
I'm also thinking that a 4-rib alternator from a mid 80's prelude/Accord should be able to be adapted also.
Just need to look at the plug..
Looking for some GOOD advise from KNOWLEDGEABLE engine builders.
Errol