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ef + gsr + replace clutch

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by kevev, Mar 26, 2009.

  1. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    Hello All! I have a 90 ef sedan. Engine is, 2000 gs-R motor, 94 LS tranny, new ebay motor mounts, and new(not rebult) autozone 91 integra axels.

    I have 2 issues(I think).

    I installed the motor mounts and axels. I was having alot of engine vibration in the cab, and I thought it was from the engine mounts. The car "had" 92-95 civic b-series mounts when I purchased it. It had clanking axels with torn boots also. I replace the mounts and axels. Car handles great now. But the vibration is worse. I am thinking the flywheel and/or clutch are out of balance. Reason being is the previous owner told me the cluch will need to be replaced soon because he put a used one in. Will this vibration be caused by a bad clutch/flywheel? I notice most of the vibration on the front of the engine(driver side). Another note, I noticed the previous owner chizzled the outer pulley run lip off the crank pulley. I guess he could not get the engine to fit. Could this cause a crank imballance? Also before anyone suggest I check the alternator clearance, I made sure to notch the driver side frame(this was not done by previous owner).

    Second issue. I have been driving the car with new mounts and axels for a month. I notice that in 2nd & 3rd gear the engine seems to be shaking. I am thinking I may have installed the wrong axels. The original axels were for abs(dont know if that makes a difference). They may have been 94 axels and not 91. But I could not tell the difference when I compaired old/new. Anyone have any ideas?

    I apologize for the long story. I just want to make sure I get all details in one post. ;)
     
  2. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    I forgot one question. Will I be able to pull the tranny and replace clutch without pulling entire engine? The bell housing is very close to the passanger side frame. Thank You.
     
  3. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    Do I have everyone stumped? :eek:

    I am planning on doing the clutch and flywheel replacement in 2 days. So the question I really need answered is, Will I be able to pull the tranny without removing the engine? Can anyone answer this question? Thank You.
     
  4. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    most likely whats causing the vibration.. bearings are probably shot because of it too
     
  5. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    Crap. I will check the crank bearings when replacing the oil pan later. So do you think I can replace the pulley and clutch without pulling engine? Can I use a pulley from the junk yard?
     
  6. HATCHET_HONDA

    HATCHET_HONDA scottie fizzle

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    mayyybe the clutch and or flywheel but i doubt thats it. my bet is on that f'd up crank pulley. does it vibrate the whole car at idle too? or can you just feel it while driving...
     
  7. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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    so long as its in good shape i don't see why not. specially in an ed chassis it would be much easier to do the clutch by pulling the engine/trans as a whole. also b18 into ef mounts are pretty much always stiffer than the old weak stock mounts, so that may explain some of the vibration you're feeling.
     
  8. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    I appreciate all the help. You guys are great. Well, I found out that since installing the correct engine mounts, the bottom of the engine is shifted forward enough for the transmission to contact the front cross-member mount. I had that cut off last weekend. Now the vibration is minimal considering I have stiff mounts. Now, the only problem left is the Whole car shakes in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th in the low to mid rpm range. Also the brand new axles have started to clank in light and tight turns. I know the struts are pretty much blown, and I may have a bad hub bearing on the front right.

    Question, I have skunk2 lowering springs. What shocks are recomended for the swap I have? I know there is a weight issue up front with the gsr. Are the springs good enough to not blow good struts? Or should I go with a whole new setup? I am trying to not spend money I dont need. The drop is not agressive. Maybe 1.25 inches. I want touring ride, nothing rough or sloppy. Need cornering to be tight. Thank You in advance! :eek:)
     
  9. pappaj

    pappaj New Member

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    I have similar situation with my rex, new axles lasted 2000 kms before starting to clunk again. I am interested in the answer.
     
  10. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    OK. I will keep you posted....
     
  11. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    really? what mounts are you two using? with my hasport EFB1's the angle on the axles isn't that bad at all. i'm at about 20k miles on this set (from autozone) with no problems at all.
     
  12. Eli2

    Eli2 New Member

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    Yea I have heard about swap mounts transmitting a ton of vibration into the chassis. Also with really cheap mounts the engine sits wrong in the chassis causing driveline bind. A blown strut wouldnt cause the axle to go bad. It may however cause a vibration at high speed as it allows the wheel to bounce up and down, but since you said its a low speed vibration I doubt again its the strut. You can get a crank pulley from the junkyard no problem just make sure its in good condition.
    My conclusion to your problem with the cv axles going bad quickly would be cheap mounts combined with a lowered car(mainly the mounts).
    As for the vibration I'd go to the junkyard and grab a crank pulley and swap it in before spending any money on a new clutch and see if that helps.
    Eli

    EDIT: I'm not sure about the crank pulley to framerail clearance on a B-series swapped ef but if it can be removed with engine in the car, its definately worth a shot IMO.
     
  13. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    Search Ebay for 180331788424
    That should bring up the ones I purchased.
     
  14. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    :mellow: Im sorry. This reply was for BrokenRex
     
  15. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    the problem that I see with those is the claim that you "do not need to notch the rear crossmember" and "designed for maximum header clearance." first of all, those are on opposite sides of the motor, so without leaning the motor towards the front of the car, would be impossible to accomplish both. secondly, the reason other mount kits require you to hammer down that rear crossmember lip is so motor placement gives the best axle angle. hasport wouldn't have you needlessly hammer the crap out of your vehicle if it wasn't absolutely necessary.
     
  16. Eli2

    Eli2 New Member

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  17. Eli2

    Eli2 New Member

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    X2 Its probably the cheap mounts causing the axle problem
    Eli
     
  18. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    So....Im supose to hammer the rear crossmember? Never heard of that. But I am new to this motor in an ef.
     
  19. kevev

    kevev New Member

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    What are the angles supose to be with good mounts? Are they supose to be straight?
     
  20. HATCHET_HONDA

    HATCHET_HONDA scottie fizzle

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    with the hasport mounts you flatten the lip on the rear crossmember so the rear engine bracket clears and sits properly. i swapped my b16 into my ef and used the hasport mount kit. while they are stiff and engine vibration is a lil more noticeable then before the drivetrain sits right where it should be. no axle problems at all. although pricey they were well worth every penny to do it right the first time.
     
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