EG B16 Doesn't want to start after its been warm for a while

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CAFROG

Honda Minion
VIP
I put a B16 in my hatch back in the spring time of 09. I just started having a problem trying to re-start it.
A scenario would be going to the store for gas and when I try to start the car to leave....
it starts up and rev's to about 2K when it fires over (which is normal) but when it falls to an idle...
the rpm's just keep falling and the car dies. I let it sit a while longer (3-4 minutes) and it starts fine.
This has happened 4 times in the last month. My LS swap did it to me but only once.

I do have a lightened flywheel (9.5lbs) and have read things like this happen with them.

Maybe this is weather related? I'm in Nor-Cal and it hasn't been that cold.

I re-set my ECU yesterday (didn't think it matter but did it anyway) and the idle started to hunt a little but
I gently rev'd it and the hunt went away but that was irritating, none the less.

Any advise or previous experiences would be appreciated. Thanks
 
If it's intermittent like you say then my guess is the idle air control valve. I'd pull off the IACV and give it a good cleaning.
 
Good idea. I drove it about 50 miles last night and when I got into town....it was hunting again which makes me think IACV too.
 
many hondas have this prob, have you checked the fast idle valve. (under the throttle body) that manually sets idle conditions based on temperature. the air idle control is controlled by the ecu to keep the idle @ a steady rpm. the fast idlve valve has an adj port. if that comes out of adj (which is common) the ecu cannot compensate the idle. thus IDLE starts "hunting". jumps usually frm around 500rpm to 1800rpm.
 
check the idle air control valve if its clogged blast it wit a air blower or clean it thoroughly
 
I took out the IAC valve today. The screen was a little gunked up so I cleaned the IAC valve. Seems to be working fine after I tested it today.
I used an air compressor to blow out the cleanser (some mass air flow sensor cleaner) and let it sit for 20 minutes before install.

Thanks for all the advise
 
Well....it started doing it again. I am wondering if this means I need a IACV? I am going to take it back off
and see if its gunked up again.....which would be a bad sign...at least it seems like it would mean my intake
manifold has crap all in it.

Anyone have other thoughts? I may be barking up the wrong tree....sort to speak. Its only when its warm and it only at the start up.
It runs fine in all other extents.
 
try the FITV(fast idle thermal valve) it controls the idle base on temp....its easy to service but will make a little mess due to coolant will leak...
under the throttle body theres the FITV wit 1 coolant hose and 3 12mm bolt holding it there so remove the bolts and pull it out and watch out dont lose the rubber gasket...so wen its finally off u have to remove 2 more bolt on the flat end (u'll see it) and inside u'll see a white plastic thingy and look like it have threads or something and im pretty sure urs is out so screw it bakk in and since its out clean the shit out of it too, den put everything bakk and chekk ur coolant fluid and start that fukker up and hope dat shit stops it...
 
Thanks. I'm out of town but will take it apart on Monday. Is the white threaded plug need to be seated and tight?
 
I need a USDM OBD1 B-series throttle body for smog (MAP needs to be on TB) so I figured I would try to find one
with the FITV on it (maybe kill 2 birds with 1 stone). It has been quite the search and all I have found are OBD2 TB's
and they dont have a FITV or even a spot to put one. On the plus side, I did find a bare USDM B16A3 intake manifold
for $50 (which I needed for smog too) but throttle body has been a journey. I need to smog in Feb so I figured I will get the
correct TB instead of taking my FITV off and cleaning it. I'll just clean what I buy
 
I need a USDM OBD1 B-series throttle body for smog (MAP needs to be on TB) so I figured I would try to find one
with the FITV on it (maybe kill 2 birds with 1 stone). It has been quite the search and all I have found are OBD2 TB's
and they dont have a FITV or even a spot to put one. On the plus side, I did find a bare USDM B16A3 intake manifold
for $50 (which I needed for smog too) but throttle body has been a journey. I need to smog in Feb so I figured I will get the
correct TB instead of taking my FITV off and cleaning it. I'll just clean what I buy


hey u got till feb so yea if u plan on buying another den 4get going through da hassle and like u said clean wat u buy....dats wat i did...good luck finding ur TB
 
This is probably your Main Relay. It would do this generally after the inside of the car is warm and you shut it off for <5 Minutes or so, Say to get gas or a drink from a store...You come back and it doesnt get going, but if you wait like another 10 minutes or so, it fires right up and youre on your way....

Try - http://techauto.tripod.com/ - Great write ups for starting problems!
 
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You might be right. Thanks for the info and link. I'll probably get a new one. Weird thing is I drove it (getting parts at recyclers)
and it started up all day long (more then 6 times) some with re-starts after < 2 minutes.
 
So it did it again today...at the flippin gas station. It had been doing fine and I chalked it up to this stupid lightened flywheel.
Right after it died...I put the key to the on postion and I listened for the main relay....didn't hear it. Waited...heard it and it started
but died when it tried to idle.Waited a little more...and gave it gas after it fired over and it ran. I am guessing it may be the
relay and its slowly going out? Hell, I'm getting a new main relay
 
Put the relay in today. So far so good (5 starts). I went to a reputable Honda Recycler and took one out of a coupe. Put it in there and drove around. Also put a deposit on a PW PL conversion for my Si (why they didn't come with PW and PL amazes me. I just missed out on a '97 GSR swap that they sold today for $1500 with 137,000 miles. It had a painted red valve cover and a DC header but looked stock otherwise.
 
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