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EG build to start soon. Need some advice.

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by MisterMister, Nov 13, 2008.

  1. MisterMister

    MisterMister USDM whore

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    Whats going on guys.

    Let me give you a little background on my self. I had been pretty into the Honda scene for a good 10 years. Starting out with a Del Sol with BPU upgrades (sold), and ending up with a pretty tricked out 00' Civic Si coupe (stolen).

    I have since moved on to RWD cars, getting an S13 240 and a '91 SW21 Toyota MR2. I am now looking at getting back into the Honda scene after doing some soul searching and research. I really did love my Si to death and have come to further love that car (even after it's loss), making the decision even easier.

    Now, all that being said, I am wrestling with the idea of putting together a hatch, as so many before have done. I always wanted a hatch, even when I was building my Si coupe due to its modability and its light weight. Not to mention the fact that I think these are some of the better looking Hondas to come out in the 90s.

    After some thought, I have almost made up my mind to build an EG hatch. The recent article in SS about the K20 powered JDM sweet EG hatch have even further blown my thoughts in that direction.

    Now, I was thinking of going with the tried and true LS-VTEC turbo build, but now I am not so sure. The K series swaps are looking better and better, and their power production is such that I might not even bother going FI. However, this is where it gets tricky.

    I am a B series guy. Always have been. Thus, I know jack squat about the newer K series swaps other then the fact that they make some decent power in NA builds and that there are a myriad of swap options available for all sorts of Honda chassis.

    This is where you come in. I am thinking of a K24 swap due to the better drivability and increased torque, but that raises further questions such as available aftermarket parts, maximum potential, and swapability. Right now, I am looking for a straight swap without ant custom fabrication. If that means going with a pre-made engine mount kit, so be it, but I would rather not have to do any firewall work or the like, nor do I want to loose things such as AC and power steering.

    Whats more, I am looking to keep at or near the stock curb weight. No gutting the chassis. No massive diet plans. I like my hearing and am not too keen on removing all of the sound deadening material. That being said, I dont want a simple 14 second car. If this is going to be an NA build, I want this thing to be at least deep into the 13s, all while keeping its composure and drivability on the street and at the auto-x.

    Anyway, the bottom line is this:

    I am looking for;

    Daily drivability
    Modability
    At least mid 13 second ETs
    Balance for competitive auto-x and road race events

    With all that in mind, I welcome your comments and advice. Any and all will be welcome. Furthermore, I thank you in advance for anything you may offer.

    -Joe

    Edit: If anyone cares, here is my old ride:

    B18C5 long block
    B16A2 head
    SS valves
    Ti retainers & springs
    RC 370cc injectors
    JDM ITR header
    Password JDM J's Racing style carbon fiber intake
    Omni Power 2.5" test pipe
    RS*R EX-Mag cat-back exhaust
    Exedy full face clutch
    ACT 12lb street-lite flywheel
    Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
    Energy Suspension shifter bushings
    B&M S bend stainless steel short shifter
    JDM CTR shifter boot
    JDM Accord-R 5spd billet shifter knob
    AEM 12" slotted front rotors, 11" rear rotors
    BF Goodridge stainless steel braided brake lines
    Hawk HPS brake pads
    Motoul RBF600 brake fluid
    KYB AGX shocks/struts
    Skunkworks GS-R coilovers (original, not Skunk 2)
    SRR rear lower tie bar
    Walboro 190lph fuel pump
    Rota Circuit 8 16" rims (gunmetal)
    Hankook Ventus RS2 tires (215-45-16)
    Uberdata chipped P28 ECU (chrome)
    Skunk 2 Stage 2 cams
    Skunk 2 cam gears
    Spoon Sports 2 layer HG
    milled head (.30mm)
    Skunk 2 intake manifold
    Hondata intake manifold polyurethane gasket
    BBK 65mm port matched TB
    Dyno tuned by Bubba @ Do-It-Dyno

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2008
  2. MisterMister

    MisterMister USDM whore

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    Anyway, with all that said here are a few more questions:

    K20 vs K24? Pros? Cons? Weight differences? Swapability (ease of install)? Maximum performance gains for NA builds?

    Which EG platform will work best (obviously I want a hatch, but what trim level should I be looking for) for my application? I want to keep weight down, but then again I also don't want crank windows and manual door locks, no AC, etc.

    Finally, can anyone give me a good reason NOT to do a K series swap, and just go with a good old B18C5?
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2008
  3. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Why the hell did you post the exact same shit all over again? Just continue to post in the original thread that you started...bump it up if you're not getting the answers you want...there's no need for two identical threads...

    Also, some of the shit you're asking could easily be found out via a little research...

    :disgust1:
     
  4. MisterMister

    MisterMister USDM whore

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    Different forums. One was for EGs the other for EG Hybrids. Given that this falls under both, I didn't see the problem. If I knew you were paying for the bandwidth though, I would have asked first. Sorry.
     
  5. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    I'm not, but the site admins would tell you the same thing. It's not like one set of people frequent the EG forums and another frequent the hybrid forums. One thread will be plenty sufficient. Besides, you're getting responses in your other one...
     
  6. hdel2sol2

    hdel2sol2 New Member

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    back to the point of your post, k20 would eat a k24 any day with factory specs lol also i know this is no where in your post but an h series would be a good thing to think about my h22 eg before the turbo was in the 13 20s and after was low 12s i dont run boost on autocross dont have any traction with it lol but it was a nasty competitor in the auto x
     
  7. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Not necessarily. There are different versions of both the K24 and K20. It depends on which one we're talking about...
     
  8. hdel2sol2

    hdel2sol2 New Member

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    lets say best of both, k20 all the way
     
  9. Anthony02

    Anthony02 New Member

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    hey bro i have a k20 eg hatch and i love it it may not be as easy to swap it in like a regular b series but i have a stock k20 with a upgraded ecu and i hit 12.9 with drag radials and there is alot of parts for the swap yea on the exhaust you have to do a little modification but thats wat a project car is the is a site called hybrid-racing.com is a site were there is nothing but k series swap honda's. or k20a.org if you need any more info on how i did my swap i ordered my brackets that were already made to bolt staight up to the stock brackets and you dont have to cut the fire way to do this swap.
     
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