Eg Reborn In My Paint Both(chet)
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Calesta, I am in Del Rio, Texas and get all my paint work done in Mexico, I had my Cobra painted there and am getting ready to take my hatch over for paint. They are slow but do excellent work...cheap. Less than a grand. My friend just took his explorer there (he roled it being stupid) they are replacing the top and fixing everything as well as paint for 1600.00. Dallas is about 8 hours so it may not be worth it. Thouhgt I would throw that out there.....for everyone.
yea i battled with the whole camo, cow, or just flat black. So im rocking this for now.. and i dont know if im going to keep it.. i really like it right now.. If i do paint it the right way, later on down the road. I'm gonna strip the whole car.. pull the motor, all the guts, everything. So it looks like it came from the factory in whatever color i decide to paint it. I dug up a few pics for everyone..
a camo EK
a photochopped camo rex
a cow EG
a flat black rex
a camo EK
a photochopped camo rex
a cow EG
a flat black rex
Canuck 93 Civic Si
Senior Member
I plan on painting my car after schools done this year but i need to make a decision. Its black right now and i was thinking of dark blue but i think it would look good also in another coat of black when the black projectors and black clear corners come in. Hmm......... big decision time. Any opinions would be welcome. The car is a 93 civic si coupe. I also plan on getting a set of black rims, when the price is right.
ok im a lil confused. i see flat black cars like that all the time, and i always thought that it was just primered black. is that what you guys did or did you just use regular spray paint? and paragus you said you only used 1 can of paint? how big are the cans? i dont think a can the size of a spray paint can could cover a whole car. please excuse if my questions sound dumb to you. i seriously want to know whats up. cause my car is 3 colors right now cause nothing is painted, and i really dont have money to get a paint job. now im interested in how you did your 8 dollar paint job paragus. what all was needed, the steps you took, and yada yada yada. also for colorpros i have some rust on my rear fender and im pretty sure you dont just paint over it. i think the rust has actually eaten a small hole in the metal, and also i have some rust bubles (rust underneath paint) and i was wondering what would be the best ways to prep these areas before painting so that its smooth and like it was never there when i repaint it. also paragus did you clear coat anything? and if you did use spray paint how do you keep areas like the door handle from the paint rubbing off. thanks.
Canuck 93 Civic Si
Senior Member
GSRCRXsi... is the rust happening around your rear weel well?
hmm in the next few months, im looking for someone to primer car some really wild color. how much would you charge to do colored primer for a whole car??
btw that Civic looks fuckin SIC!!! i like it!!
dig that camo EK hatch too
PRIMER IS FINER!!
btw that Civic looks fuckin SIC!!! i like it!!
dig that camo EK hatch too
PRIMER IS FINER!!
b20- Thanks. The money I save on the job will be spent getting down there though, so yeah not too feasible.
I can handle the flat black on the CRX- it doesn't look that bad...or just get a cheap job somewhere. I'm sure I'll find a hookup in Dallas before too long.
I can handle the flat black on the CRX- it doesn't look that bad...or just get a cheap job somewhere. I'm sure I'll find a hookup in Dallas before too long.
right now in Fort Wayne, Indiana but moving to Virginia in June so it will be after i move when i would be able to do it.
trust me.. you just want to get it fixed. or else it will keep coming back and back and back..lol. And to answer your questions GSRCRX. There are a few ways to achieve the flat black look. I chose the Krylon way. And i didnt say i only used one can of paint. I said only one got empty. The rest are still atleast 1/4 full. What would happen with the cans, was when i was painting the nozzle would clog up and i would just swap cans, then i started swapping nozzles. But i used 4 cans. Now im still not done, but i think i have enough.
Now as far as what i did.
I'm not a painter, i dont consider myself a pro, and i dont make my living off painting cars..but what I've heard is that spray paint isnt a paint that seals... which makes sense IMO. So if you were to sand your car down to bare metal and paint it with spray paint, it would rust because the paint wouldnt seal like a normal paint job you would get at colorpros shop. So for this reason i didnt sand down to bare metal, nor did i even get to the primer in the majority of the places. I just scuffed up the paint enough so that the spray paint would have something to grip and the regular paint under it would protect the metal under it. So sand your whole car down just scuff your paint up. I used a 220 grit paper w/ a sander, it gets real dusty so do it in a open area, drive way or something like that. This would be a good time to tape off your rubber seals and shit. you dont want the sander catching them. Then wipe down the area and look for the shiny spots where you skipped or missed or whatever, then sand those spots.
Now that the car is sanded, i used a automotive laqour thinner from a car paint shop (that a friend had) and rubbed the whole car down. This cleans the body up, again.. do this in a VENTILATED AREA.. the shit is strong and will fuck you up. If you see shiney spots after cleaning the surface, sand it again, then clean it again, repeat till your car is dull. After the area is all cleaned up i took parts off and taped stuff off and started painting. i put several coats on it.
wait till dry.. a day, more, whatever. This is where I am right now, and im going to be doing this weekend. This weekend im going back over my car and wetsanding it with 800 grit. This will help get some of the painters and spray cans errors in the paint job and give it that smooth flat look. And then after im done with this im probably gonna go over it again, then wetsand it again and see how it looks.
CLIFF STEPS:
1. Sand car down, just scuff up paint, dont sand to bare metal
2. Clean sanded areas down, then wipe with a good quality automotive laqour thinner
3. Tape off, remove parts, and paint.
4. Let dry.
5. Wetsand painted area.
6. Repeat 3,4, and 5 till happy with car.
Materials: (that i used)
220 grit sandpaper (to sand the car)
laquor thinner (clean the car)
4 cans of Krylon Ultra-Flat Black Camo Paint (The camo isnt necessary, just use what you want, flat black , black, ultra flat, whatever)
800 grit sandpaper (to wetsand the car)
masking tape and newspapers (self-explanitory)
And to answer the last few questions.. i didnt use and i dont plan on using any sealer. And my door handles are fine. They arent rubbing off, why would they?? And if they even did, who cares.. shake the can up and apply then your done
Hope this answers all your questions.. if not, just ask away.
Now as far as what i did.
I'm not a painter, i dont consider myself a pro, and i dont make my living off painting cars..but what I've heard is that spray paint isnt a paint that seals... which makes sense IMO. So if you were to sand your car down to bare metal and paint it with spray paint, it would rust because the paint wouldnt seal like a normal paint job you would get at colorpros shop. So for this reason i didnt sand down to bare metal, nor did i even get to the primer in the majority of the places. I just scuffed up the paint enough so that the spray paint would have something to grip and the regular paint under it would protect the metal under it. So sand your whole car down just scuff your paint up. I used a 220 grit paper w/ a sander, it gets real dusty so do it in a open area, drive way or something like that. This would be a good time to tape off your rubber seals and shit. you dont want the sander catching them. Then wipe down the area and look for the shiny spots where you skipped or missed or whatever, then sand those spots.
Now that the car is sanded, i used a automotive laqour thinner from a car paint shop (that a friend had) and rubbed the whole car down. This cleans the body up, again.. do this in a VENTILATED AREA.. the shit is strong and will fuck you up. If you see shiney spots after cleaning the surface, sand it again, then clean it again, repeat till your car is dull. After the area is all cleaned up i took parts off and taped stuff off and started painting. i put several coats on it.
wait till dry.. a day, more, whatever. This is where I am right now, and im going to be doing this weekend. This weekend im going back over my car and wetsanding it with 800 grit. This will help get some of the painters and spray cans errors in the paint job and give it that smooth flat look. And then after im done with this im probably gonna go over it again, then wetsand it again and see how it looks.
CLIFF STEPS:
1. Sand car down, just scuff up paint, dont sand to bare metal
2. Clean sanded areas down, then wipe with a good quality automotive laqour thinner
3. Tape off, remove parts, and paint.
4. Let dry.
5. Wetsand painted area.
6. Repeat 3,4, and 5 till happy with car.
Materials: (that i used)
220 grit sandpaper (to sand the car)
laquor thinner (clean the car)
4 cans of Krylon Ultra-Flat Black Camo Paint (The camo isnt necessary, just use what you want, flat black , black, ultra flat, whatever)
800 grit sandpaper (to wetsand the car)
masking tape and newspapers (self-explanitory)
And to answer the last few questions.. i didnt use and i dont plan on using any sealer. And my door handles are fine. They arent rubbing off, why would they?? And if they even did, who cares.. shake the can up and apply then your done
Hope this answers all your questions.. if not, just ask away.
