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Engine Break-in

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by CIVICTRON, Aug 29, 2008.


    CIVICTRON stealthcivic

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    Aug 2, 2008
    The Pas Manitoba
    I am breaking in new internal parts on my D16Z6 engine, I ran mineral based non synthetic oil for 2 weeks approx. 4 tanks of gas, and I just recently did an oil change with full synthetic, did you think this would be cool since they reccomend breakin in engines with non synthetic.
  2. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    Feb 19, 2003
    you already did it. what does it matter?
  3. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    Feb 28, 2003
    Moving back West...
    Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

  4. efhondakid

    efhondakid My name is Byron. VIP

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    Mar 2, 2007
    Akron-Canton, Ohio
    I thought i heard that synthetic oil was not good for break-in.

    :edit: cant rep you for the info B16 or I would.

    DOHCIVIC New Member

    Likes Received:
    Apr 28, 2007
    this is stright from Laskey Racing Online Store

    The Proper Method to Break in your New Engine
    One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be ready for tuning immediately. They will continue to seat better over a short period of time but you should be ready to go tune right away.

    Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner. In second position on the “things NOT to do list†is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it. Too lean an air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to do list� Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.
    Well I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your set-up. It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time. The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.

    So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.

    But my engine was already tuned from my previous set-up. Well, what happened to your previous set-up? Did you melt a stock piston or crack a cylinder? No problem because now you have forged pistons and sleeves? Wrong. Although you now have stronger components that will take more abuse, you are still not right on your air fuel mixture. Get that thing tuned properly ASAP.

    OK, I did it my way instead of yours and now I’m burning a lot of oil. What happened? Well basically you scarred up the skirt of the piston, messed up the surface of the cylinder wall and maybe even egg shaped the cylinder. New pistons are tapered smaller on the top to larger at the bottom of the skirt. Your piston to wall clearance is measured at the bottom of the skirt. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the upper portion of the piston begins to expand slightly. The bottom of the skirt does not expand much. When you boost in a lean condition, the upper part of the piston expands quickly. Since the ring land area is cut smaller than the tapered skirt below it, the first part of the piston that pushes into the cylinder wall is just below the oil ring. Thus you will see the worst scarring on your piston right under the ring lands where the excess heat is the highest.
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