Engine Gets Hot During Uphill/WOT

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

Originally posted by edunnett@Aug 24 2004, 01:25 AM
I'm thinking part of the equation might be the thermostat and/or temp sensor (the temp sensor is the only not new part in the cooling system now).
[post=380847]Quoted post[/post]​

Elissa, I would just go ahead and replace that thermostat. From what I learned in many years of driving my old Civics ('74, '78, '78 and now the '94 w/300K miles), is to change the hoses and thermostats when replacing the radiator. I learned the hard way with the hoses. Also as thermostats age, the sensors get fried and turn at at higher temperatures than originally set for, I heard that on the Click n Clack radio show years ago. And also, why keep opening up your cooling system. Do it all at once and be done with it. It's the same reasoning behind replacing your water pump at the same time as your timing belt. You're in there... so go for it.

Sometimes, if something is dying or just old on my cars, I will replace them ahead of time as money permits. I prefer not to worry and watch the obvious.

Martine
 
Thanks for the post. The thermo is new and I'm confident in the sensor reading - it's not erratic but very predictable. Since it doesn't seem to be getting too hot any more but just being variable, I'm focusing on non-cooling system related factors. Until the heat rises again, I'm crossing head gasket failure off the list of alternatives (thank GOD). I went digging today and found some vacuum lines crossed (lovely) and other somewhat cracked and degraded. My theory is that if the vacuum hoses weren't routed correctly or were loosing pressure, that could make the engine work harder and produce more heat... I've fixed the crossed lines and replaced a couple of the hoses (others had to be special ordered due to shape and size) and will test drive tomorrow. Let you know what goes down. :)
thanks,
elissa
 
run a bettre colant mix and also flush your sytem ie open the drain a stich a hose in the top and let ir run with thr thermost on
 
Originally posted by hcivic.com@Aug 25 2004, 11:38 PM
run a bettre colant mix and also flush your sytem ie open the drain a stich a hose in the top and let ir run with thr thermost on
[post=382021]Quoted post[/post]​


Over the weekend I spent 20 hours bleeding air and burping air out of the system after installing a new radiator and filling with clean fresh coolant (the fifth time I've put clean coolant and burped the thing in the last two weeks!) . I did as thourough a job at it as a person can do. If air is in there now, it's from the combustion chamber and I'll cry. :-(
elissa
 
Originally posted by hcivic.com@Aug 26 2004, 02:38 AM
run a bettre colant mix and also flush your sytem ie open the drain a stich a hose in the top and let ir run with thr thermost on
[post=382021]Quoted post[/post]​

The best coolant is Honda's, in my opinion... and that's purchased at a dealership. It's free of silicates. It's all set to go, nothing to mix.
 
I've seen many times vehicles run hot from fuel shortage, I would suggest also checking your fuel system as well as carb float bowl and float height.
The fact that it happens at WOT sounds like main jet issues, or your feeding less fuel than consuming. good luck.
 
Originally posted by 94RedSiGal+Aug 26 2004, 04:33 AM-->
hcivic.com
@Aug 26 2004, 02:38 AM
run a bettre colant mix and also flush your sytem ie open the drain a stich a hose in the top and let ir run with thr thermost on
[post=382021]Quoted post[/post]​

The best coolant is Honda's, in my opinion... and that's purchased at a dealership. It's free of silicates. It's all set to go, nothing to mix.
[post=382070]Quoted post[/post]​



Coolant actually reduces water's ability to cool an engine. Water is the best coolant there is. However, water freezes at high temperatures, boils at low temperatures, and is prone to rust and corrosion. Thus Coolant/Antifreeze is added - it raises the boiling point (from 212 to up to around 270 degrees F), reduces the freezing temp, and inhibits rust and corrosion. Different brands of coolant use different chemicals and combos of chemicals to protect and inhibit rust and corrostion in the engine and cooling system. But a different brand will do little to improve or reduce the innate cooling abilities of the water. I've tested the coolant for proper mixture and it's fresh so I don't think my coolant is at fault but thanks! :)
elissa
 
Originally posted by edunnett@Aug 26 2004, 06:21 PM
But a different brand will do little to improve or reduce the innate cooling abilities of the water. I've tested the coolant for proper mixture and it's fresh so I don't think my coolant is at fault but thanks! :)
elissa
[post=382344]Quoted post[/post]​

Agree also. I didn't mean to suggest that the Honda coolant would cool better, but without silicates in the formula, your radiator should last a lot longer internally.... which none of us should object to.
 
I would like to present some tech to back up my above statement regarding Honda formula coolant. From this webpage: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/HondaCoolant.html

Some antifreeze, although labeled as safe for aluminum parts, may not be compatible with Acura cooling system components. Extensive research and testing by both Honda R&D and CCI, the manufacturer of the Honda coolant, have proven that the abrasive silicates and/or borates found in most domestic coolants can cause these problems:

- Silicates bond to the surface of the water pump seal and act as an abrasive, causing considerable seal erosion and coolant leakage. In actual tests, the silicated coolant caused early leakage. This leakage increased dramatically until a substantial portion of the coolant had been lost. In contrast, the Honda coolant had almost no leakage through the duration of the test.

- Silicates tend to gel and settle in the coolest parts of the cooling system, causing radiator plugging and overheating.

- Borates cause pitting corrosion on the cylinder head.

- Silicate inhibitors are difficult to stabilize and, therefore, limit coolant shelf life.

Most commercially available coolants were originally designed for cast iron engines. Silicate, an inexpensive additive, was added to coolants to prevent aluminum corrosion, but the long-term durability of the combination was not tested.

In contrast, Honda coolant was designed specifically for aluminum engines. It contains an organic corrosion inhibitor instead of silicate. This superior formula gives these advantages:

- No silicate abrasion of water pump seals. For example, these graphs show the surface roughness of two aluminum water pump seal rings. Seal A, exposed to silicated coolant, shows considerable damage. Seal B, exposed to Honda coolant, displays only minute wear.

- No plugging or overheating caused by silicate gelling.

- Excellent corrosion protection for aluminum components.

- Long-term corrosion protection for other cooling system materials (steel, cast iron, copper, solder, gaskets, seals, and O-rings).


:)
 
Originally posted by edunnett@Aug 26 2004, 06:21 PM

However, water freezes at high temperatures, boils at low temperatures, and is prone to rust and corrosion. Thus Coolant/Antifreeze is added - it raises the boiling point (from 212 to up to around 270 degrees F), reduces the freezing temp, and inhibits rust and corrosion. Different brands of coolant use different chemicals and combos of chemicals to protect and inhibit rust and corrostion in the engine and cooling system. But a different brand will do little to improve or reduce the innate cooling abilities of the water. I've tested the coolant for proper mixture and it's fresh so I don't think my coolant is at fault but thanks! :)
elissa
[post=382344]Quoted post[/post]​



I believe water actually Boils at HIGH (100C) temperatures, and Freezes at LOW (0C) Temperatures.

anyone else notice that.
 
Originally posted by CRX-YEM+Aug 27 2004, 10:45 AM-->
@Aug 26 2004, 06:21 PM

However, water freezes at high temperatures, boils at low temperatures, and is prone to rust and corrosion. Thus Coolant/Antifreeze is added - it raises the boiling point (from 212 to up to around 270 degrees F), reduces the freezing temp, and inhibits rust and corrosion. Different brands of coolant use different chemicals and combos of chemicals to protect and inhibit rust and corrostion in the engine and cooling system. But a different brand will do little to improve or reduce the innate cooling abilities of the water. I've tested the coolant for proper mixture and it's fresh so I don't think my coolant is at fault but thanks! :)
elissa
[post=382344]Quoted post[/post]​



I believe water actually Boils at HIGH (100C) temperatures, and Freezes at LOW (0C) Temperatures.

anyone else notice that.
[post=382636]Quoted post[/post]​

Elissa is talking in Fahrenheit and you are in Celsius... ;)
 
no, Water always boils at a high temperature whether it's
Fahrenheit or Celsius

Boiling point = 100C or 212 F
Freezing point = 0C or 32 F
 
Originally posted by CRX-YEM@Aug 27 2004, 11:49 AM
no, Water always boils at a high temperature whether it's
Fahrenheit or Celsius

Boiling point = 100C or 212 F
Freezing point = 0C or 32 F
[post=382766]Quoted post[/post]​


But my point about water boiling at a LOW temp and freezing at a HIGH temp is this: do you want YOUR car's water/cooling system freezing at 32F or boiling at 212F? NO. Thus, the freezing temp of water alone is too high and the boiling temp is too low. Dextron and Glycol Ethanol (or whatever the hell the stuff is called) lowers the freezing point below 0 and raises the boiling temp above 212. Much better for most car's engine blocks. Anyway, it's a mute point. The coolant is fine. I will consider the Honda stuff for the preservation of aluminum engine parts next drain/refill. Thanks!

BTW - I am bringing it to a shop next week to do a leak-down test to be sure it's not a head gasket, and also have them actually test the coolant temp.

Elissa
 
POST MORTEM:

SYMPTOM: engine temperature gauge showed near (up to 80%) Hot during long steep uphill climbs.

SOLUTION: new radiator installed, brought the high range down to 60% going up same hills.

PROFESSIONAL ANALYSIS: took car to a honda specialist today who measured the temp when the car was a 65% to hot and under load (hills or idling at 3500) and the temperature reading never was more than 196 degrees. Normal temps are 180-200 for these cars. The swings in temperature are most likely caused by one or both:
1- aftermarket thermostat opens earlier than the factory one, which keeps the operating temp a bit lower than normal when not under load.
2- thermo sensor may be too sensitive but they couldn't test it easily for some reason.

I'm going to be happy with this situation until I have the time, money and energy to replace the thermostat and the thermo sensor on my own.

Thanks everyone! :)
 
Back
Top