Engine overheating.... Sometimes

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for the how do you bleed it question..... get a 10m box wrench and break the valve lose BEFORE you start the car incase it wants to be a bitch so the car doesn't get hot while your fighting it. Make sure you have plenty of towels and atleast another half jug of coolant. Once you break it lose, snugg it tight then start the car. loosen the bleeder just enough for coolant to bleed out. I theres any air in the system, you will see coolant kind of sputter out... let it sputter until it completely stops and the flow is even and consistent. Once the air is out of the system, kill the car and top it off with coolant. I normally repeat the process again just to make sure its fully clear. It would be better to have a clear tube to attach to the bleeder valve ( so you can see the bubbles) but the coolant you spilt on the ground would be a tasty treat for that neighbor hood cat that likes to spray piss/leave foot prints on your ride. 2 birds with one stone!
 
Well, like I said last night, I replaced the coolant temp sensor, and drove it around today. Same problem. That didn't fix it. I bled the system today after work, and that didn't fix it either. I guess the next step will be to put my stock guage cluster back in to see if maybe the guage went bad on the EG6 cluster. I'll let ya'll know what happens. In the mean time, can ya'll think of anything else it could be. Thanks for all the help so far! I appriciate it!
 
I guess the next step will be to put my stock guage cluster back in to see if maybe the guage went bad on the EG6 cluster.

Using the stock gauge to read temps would be equivalent to a Surgeon using a string telephone to check a patients heart rate.
 
Say what? I know the engine is not overheating, it's the guage that is reading wrong. What I don't know is, if it's the guage itself, a sensor, a loose wire, ground, or what.

Thanks for your vast knowledge on this topic though.
 
*Update*

Im not sure, but this may be a related problem. Yesterday while I was driving, the temp guage was up, as usual, but when I put on my turn signal, the speedometer jumped to like 100 kmh (62 mph) and then went back down to my actual speed. (about 60 kph). I noticed it, then turned my signal back on and it did it again. It hasn't done it since, but could this be an indicator that my cluster is bad? A bad ground, loose wire, etc.?

Thanks for everyones help! This is very annoying....
 
*Update #2*

Well, I changed the guage cluster and the fan switch and bled the coolant through that bleeder valve (twice). Still overheating. It goes up, at idle, to about 2/3 the way up, then the fan comes on and cools it back down to normal. That is just at idle, when I drive it, it does all kinds of crazy stuff. Goes up about 3/4 the way, goes back down when I let off the gas, it goes back to normal when I come to a complete stop, runs normally to about 45 mph, then goes back up. Sometimes I let off the gas and it stays where it's at even when I come to a complete stop. Then when I take off in 1st gear, it goes back to normal until I hit 3rd or 4th gear, then goes back up to 3/4 or higher...

Can someone please help?
 
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Please, someone help!!!

I figure that I has to be some kind of electrical problem. What could it be? I need help!
 
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you got me stumped.. not sure what else it could be other than an electrical problem..
 
Please, someone give me some direction. I almost positive that it's an electrical problem, but where do I start?
 
Well, my car wouldn't start today. It cranked like my battery was almost dead. So I got out my multimeter, and the battery read 12.3. I checked my alternator and it also read that it was only putting out 12.3 volts. I'm gonna change the alternator tonight when I get off work.

Could this be the problem with the rest of the electrical stuff? When your alternator goes bad, does it affect the gauge cluster readings? Thanks for everyones help.
 
I wander if the voltage regulator in the alt is bad...... I've seen older cars with malfunctioning alternators do some wierd shit...I don't no about EFI cars but I'd imagine it would wreak havoc on anything with an ECU. If the regulator was bad... the higher revolutions of the motor could spike current and make stuff go hay-wire.
 
Thanks for your response. I'm gonna change my alternator tonight. I'll let ya'll know how it goes. Wish me luck.

*Edit*

Didn't have a chance to change the alternator last night, but I'll do it today when I get off work. Has anyone had a problem like this due to a bad alternator? Did replacing it, fix the problem?

Thanks again.
 
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Well, I changed my alternator. Same result. Still putting out 12.25 volts to the battery. It has got to be a short somewhere. It's gotta be somewhere behind my dash or under the steering wheel, where the fuse box is.

I've been trying to follow the yel/grn wire from the coolant temp. sensor to the dash. I figure if I can find the wire that's grounding that one out, I'd find the problem for everything else. It's hard cuzz under my dash is a rats nest, due to my alarm. It's an "autopage" alarm that I've had for a year or so. I've never had any problems with it... It's always worked fine, so I don't think that's the problem.

What I'm thinking is, is when I had my Apex-i turbo timer wired up, I asked some guy at my work to do it, cuzz he has a turbo Integra with the same timer. He said he installed it himself, and it's worked fine ever since. I yanked out everything he did, so the turbo timer is not hooked up at all.

If someone can think of anything it could possibly be, it would be greatly appriciated! Thanks to everyone that has helped, and hopefully will help!
 
Can someone please help? I can't figure this out, and I really don't want to take my car to a shop or to the dealership... What would cause all the problems im having?

- Alternator is only putting out 12.2 volts.
- Temp. gauge is jumping all around whenever it wants to.
- Speedometer jumps around to different speeds when I use the turn signal.

Someone please help!
 
None....

I don't see how some wires got crossed. I did this swap like a year ago, and it's ran perfectly up until now.
 
The car is still messed up... I'm gonna end up taking it to a shop to pay $400+ for them to find a short. This sucks......
 
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