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Engine wont Idle right

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Grifter, May 25, 2004.

  1. Grifter

    Grifter Member

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    I am running a B18C1 (ODB1) in a Honda Civic CX (EK, Hatch, ODB2)

    I just got everything finished in my driveway
    - Used the CX wiring harness
    - I matched distributor wires one for one (double and triple checked)
    - Wired the injectors straight across
    - Converted the IASV to 2 wire and moved A14 to A12 (removed A13)
    - Using a skunk2 ODB2 to ODB1 converter
    - Changed my own timing belt (first time I have ever done this)(could be wrong)
    - Still no Exhaust (it needs to run so I can drive it to the shop)'
    - I don’t have a ground on the valve cover yet? There was a small scrap of ground before, Do I require this ground to idle?

    The car starts and idles around 400-500 (almost stalling out). When the gas is pressed just enough to get the car to 1000 RPM it runs great but after about 1 minute the car increases its idle up by 500 RPM.

    I keep reading about dual butterfly’s on the GSR, Do I need to run another wire to add this in? I currently do not have a wire on A26, Should I? I also have 3 unused connectors on the wiring harness. One connector is for the non-existent O2 sensor and from what I have read should remain unattached. The other 2 I am unsure of, one hangs behind the engine on the drivers side the other currently rests on top of the starter. I have talked with some locals that have done this swap and they tell me that they have the same unattached wires. If necessary I can take some pictures of the connectors and post them.

    The car is throwing a light but my old ODB2 reader is unable to work now due to the ODB1 conversion. How do I read the ODB1 codes off the ECU?

    PS Im really itchen to drive this thing :D
     
  2. Import R

    Import R Senior Member

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    Since this is your first time changing your timing belt, did you make sure that you put the belt on the right teeth for the cam gear? It might be that you are a tooth off in either direction. Might wanna jack the car up and rotate the trank to make sure that when the crank reads TDC that your cam gear also reads the same. (this will require you to take the valve cover off).

    Also, all grounds are important. You should ground the valve cover to frame as soon as you get a chance.
     
  3. Grifter

    Grifter Member

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    Thanks I will give that a shot when I get home from work tomorrow....

    Rained most of the afternoon here... no shelter in the driveway. :)
     
  4. Grifter

    Grifter Member

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    I connected the ground and checked the timing, turns out I had the two MAP sensors backwards. Now it idles great, but now there is a new error code on the ECU...

    I have read http://www.hondata.com/techecucodes.html and figured out how to get the codes but the ECU doesn't behave in the same way that I have read on the hondata site or the engine manual.

    The light flashes quickly 5 times (strobes) then turns on for about 2 seconds then turns off for a split second then turns back on and stays on until I remove the key....

    Should I read this as Code 5, am I reading this wrong, Or is my ECU shot?

    http://canadiangeek.net/car/pics/EngineLight.MOV

    MOV Movie of light

    Thanks again.
     
  5. vshivik

    vshivik Junior Member

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    hmm... saw the engine light movie clip. seems like code 5 (map sensor), the other is really strange. i've never seen the engine light just stay on in troubleshooting mode. usually it would repeat the sequence of the codes. you didn't remove the wire from that blue troubleshooting plug while you were filming did you? i think that the 3 plugs that don't have anywhere to go are fine. i have a b18c swap as well on an EK. same 3 wires hangin out. one is EVAP, O2 , and 3rd still don't know (lol), but it's a three hole plug, looks like the speed sensor plug on top of your tranny. also, there's only one map sensor, that goes on top of the throttle body, the other is your TPS located on the firewall side of the throtle body, directly opposite of the throtle cable.
    also, if i were you, i'd do what i did, and it worked well. the map sensor gets and sends extremely sensitive voltage to the ecu, so any crappy connection may throw a code. i had that problem for about 4 months, kept appearing and dissapearing. like a ghost code, until i ran 3 brand new wires, similar in guage straight from the ecu to the map sensor. i actually took the map sensor plug appart and soldered the 3 new wires directly to the chrome connectors in the sensor. never had another map sensor code again. worked like a charm.
    hope some of this helps your problem.
    good luck :spin:
     
  6. rtpassini

    rtpassini Member

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    kinda like whats wrong with mine. im throwing code 14. which is the IAC

    when it idles. its fine. but when i give it gas, it sometimes drops in rpms.

    i did what the helms told me to do. so now i have to go out and buy a new iac. this better fix my problem.
     
  7. Grifter

    Grifter Member

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    Im starting to think I have the wrong ECU.....

    I switched the two map sensors around and now it runs smoother. But now I am thoughing code 2, From what I have read on the HonData site there is no code 2 for my car.

    The ECU is also still not looping the codes.

    The sticker on the ECU is unreadable, so maybe its from a vigor....
    is that possible? would the wrong ECU still run my car?
     
  8. rtpassini

    rtpassini Member

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    i dont think its possible to use a saab ecu in your car....

    if i were you. contact hondata. i heard they have a very good tech line. also. do you have any friends with any civic, integra or lude? you can use their ecu to try something different. just dont go WOT. since you were obd2, im clueless with that stuff. so i dont really know.
     
  9. Grifter

    Grifter Member

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    well it was the ECU.....

    Got a real P72 and now its running. :)

    Idle problems went away... now I just have some engine codes to figure out.
     
  10. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    ???????
     
  11. dohch22a4

    dohch22a4 Senior Member

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    What the fuck? The Vigor was a five-cylinder Acura luxury sedan, dude. Not a Saab. Fuckin Saab...
     
  12. rtpassini

    rtpassini Member

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    bahahahah im an idiot. i was thinking viggen not vigor...oh boy.... :lol:
     
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