engine wont start

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94_gs-r

94_gs-r

can you say 260 whp N/A??
so i got the motor back into my car it tries to start and it backfires and thats about as far as it will go... do you think my timing is off? maybe a ground or something.. i have the p72 ecu so it doesnt have the light on it how can i check to see if im throwing a code?
 
checked all the plug wires bought bran new ones and new spark plugs, i played with the ignition timing a little and it backfired more, its firing out of the tb though so the valves are opening and closing at the wrong time, so i figure maybe the distributer is 180' off and a mechanic i talked to said the same thing i took it off and rotated it but it will not plug in that way... it can only go the one way into the back of the cam...
the backfire will not harm my engine will it.
 
check the pic below, your number 1 cylinder is closest to your belt side of the engine.
42172248
 
also, the lugs on the distributor that engage the cam are offset so that you can't install it 180 out.
 
k i got it running and idles fine but the throttle feels funny... it will drive like normal but feels gutless and in letting the clutch out i push the gas and it wants do die but i can her the tb opening... and the check engin light comes on
 
almost sounds like its not getting fuel but why would the check engine light come on
 
adjusted the ignition timing rund and drives fine with no hesitation but now it feels gutless there is absolutely no torqu. i have put 100 miles on it to set the rings but at any rpm if i push on the gas hard there is barely a change, very slow acceleration and check engine light still on, i went to a few diff places and read in a chiltons that the plug i need to use to read the code is above the ecu or way under the dash by the center console.. couldnt find it neither could they.
its a 94 gsr, can any of u help me out?
 
yes checked that, i need a quick lesson on how to read those codes, from what im seeing it flashed 2 times the blinked really fast 3 times and kept doing that
 
damn... so do you have to fix the one code in order for it to move on to the next?
i knew it would be the knock sensor... i replaced it i must have got a bad one... fuckin e-bay..
so i dont pay attention to the first few times it flashed because that where it starts rite? so wait for a long pause and then it starts.. long flash means its 1-9 and if its followed by short flashes then its btw 10-whatever..
 
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Switch your map sensor and your TPS wires (identical plugs) you prolly got them mixed up.
as far as the knock sensor you have to run a shielded wire from the ecu to the knock sensor in order to make it work.
 
this is the motor you had built at the machine shop, the build you talked about in your other hundred threads? why are you driving it untuned and with codes?

driving it untuned you may have done irreverable damage. too lean, and the pistons expand into the walls, scorring them. too rich and you wash the oil off the walls losing lubrication and accelerating wear.

i REALLY hope you havent been driving without an AFR meter of some kind and and some way of adjusting your fueling.
 
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it is the knock sensor car is in safe mode and car is parked till i get a new one then going to re-time the engine. thanks for the help guys
 
not to try to knock off what anyone else has said, I agree with everyone else, but the knock sensor will NOT put a honda in safe mode. . . My brother drove on a disconnected KS for a month before he got a new one, there was no change in how the vehicle performed. Granted I totally understand that the KS retard the engine timing if it detects detonation and he shouldn't have driven the car hard, but under NORMAL driving the vehicle will not harm itself.
As a matter of fact, I don't think the KS even gets looked at by the ecm until the engine engages VTEC, I could be wrong, but I have only known the CEL to come on for KS if the enigne is revved high.
Also, I noticed that you have mugen chip listed and greddy fuel management listed, neither of which has a safe mode that I am aware of.
Tell me, does the car still bog if you put in the stock ecu???
Check the plugs that I mentioned before, I still think that your problem lies there with the bogging.
as far as the knock sensor, did you run a shielded wire to it? The wire needs to be shielded because it can ger interference from just about any other wire that it is near (also happened to me), a shielded wire has braiding around it that needs to be grounded so that no interference gets in it. (alot like spark plug wires)
check into this stuff and then let me know how it goes.
 
im tuning on chrome, now... TO THE HEAD HAHA
im having alot of help on the head build though from ppl that actually know what there doing, for this being all done in my garage and basically doing it alone cant say i did to bad...
 
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