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Error codes 20 & 41 & egr & fis sensor - need help

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by HONDAPITSTOP, Mar 15, 2004.

  1. HONDAPITSTOP

    HONDAPITSTOP Senior Member

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    I'm posting this for a member Cam AKA Detaila - who belongs to my hondapitstop list and he recently did an H22A swap. Anyway, see below and tell us what you think about the problems he is having? Below is the text he sent me:

    03/15/04 - Some wiring problems and error codes with the H22A

    I figured out that when trying to connect egr lift selonoid valve sensor and fast idle thermo valve sensor to ecu we stuffed up the map sensor wiring, we fixed all that now the ecu doesnt throw codes for the MAP sensor.

    Also, vtec is working again and the redline cut out must be at least 8000rpm cos i took it to 7800 when we drove around the block.

    So, egr sensor is connected and so is knock sensor. but the ecu keeps throwing out the following codes:
    20- Electrical Load Detector - defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
    41- Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater circuit malfunction

    I'm going to swap the o2 sensor in my accord (which is the prelude one) for the accord one on my old A pipe and see what happens, if it still throws a code the problem must be in the wiring circuit-probably at the ecu.....hard to imagine because we hooked that up first as it was the easiest one, it goes in A6 on the wiring loom.

    The other code the ecu reads out is the electrical load sensor which is nothing we have touched so I am wondering if anybody has any idea of where it is, what it does and why it would be giving an error code?

    Anyway, I'm happy for now, I have my knock sensor and my iab so I can rev it up without detonation and the motor is getting its proper amount of air.

    I still have to sort out where the egr and fast idle sensor wiring goes in the ecu?

    Cam.
    End of text:

    BTW: If you're interested you can see his H22A swap progress at the below link.
    Cam's H22A Swap page
     
  2. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    In 94-95 Accords, you are supposed to switch pins A6 and A11 at the ECU. A6 is for the Heated O2 sensor, and A11 is the EGR control solenoid valve.

    Sounds like you didn't know.
     
  3. HONDAPITSTOP

    HONDAPITSTOP Senior Member

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    I didn't know that! Thank you I will pass that along to Cam who is having the problems. Hopefully, he's subscribed to this thread by now but just in case I'll email him the message! Thanks again :)

    Bruce
     
  4. dtaila

    dtaila Junior Member

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    hi, this is dtaila, did everybody know that the 5th gen australian spec f22b accords dont have an egr valve lift sensor and they dont have any wiring in the loom for it either, the 96 model jdm h22a i put in my car has an egr...... by looking at the prelude wiring diagrams, the green and white wire (one of 3 wires for the egr valve lift sensor seem to be an integral part of the loom going to several sensors.

     
  5. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    Some of us try to help. I have a day job.

    These ought to be useful. I read your post. Nothing mentioned an F22B and special wiring. <_<

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. dtaila

    dtaila Junior Member

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    thanks for your help tabs, my apologies if i sound a bit rude, fact is, by all the info i have gathered in the past 3 months on the swap, including every wiring diagram available in the gallery for the accord h22a swap it really is meant to be an easy swap.

    if the australian spec f22b 5th gen accords came with an egr lift sensor it would be as straight forward as switching the o2 and egr sensors at the ecu but they didnt so there is no wiring in the loom and ive had my thinking cap on.


    i already tried hooking the egr up to the ecu and into the other related sensors but there was already wires going into the locations on the ecu where the egr is sopposed to go, all we managed by spending 8 hours cross referencing and cutting, and soldering wires was an engine without vtec a 6300rpm red line cut out and running soooooo rich that the fuel was basically flowing out the exhaust pipe.


    we quickly changed the wiring back to how it should be and at that stage we had connected the o2 sensor in right location (sensor was found to be faulty as it was still throwing a code but replaced it and it is fine now) connected the IAB sensor and the knock sensor all to the ecu.


    at the moment the car is only throwing 2 codes, EGR (thats obvious because i have 3 wires from the egr lvalve lift sensor running down to the ecu but not connected plus the ELD sensor. I have yet to trouble shoot the ELD but the syptoms of either a faulty ELD or associated wiring are rampant, a rough and erratic idle exacerbated by the thermo fans or air con switching on.

    the ELD was working fine until the swap. Abd thing is that the ELD is incortporated into the engine fuse box and a faulty one needs the whole fuse box to be replaced.


    Being australia, you just cant go to a wrecking yard and find accords or 2nd hand parts, they are not a common car here, they were considered a luxury car and which is why a good 94 model like mine still fetches between 12-17k at a used car lot.


    Looks like i will have to go to honda...eeeek, i went there today to price a prelude engine mount (as the one i had got broken at a machine shop when i had it milled down to fit into the accords engine bay) and the list price is $340!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


    jesus, this swap has already cost me over 4 thousand dollars!!!!!!!!!:eek2:


    cam.
     
  7. HONDAPITSTOP

    HONDAPITSTOP Senior Member

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    Sorry, that was my bad. I was just trying to quickly post something for CAM to get a thread going for him so he could get some good help as I've gotten here from ya'll before :)

    Cam, I didn't know Aussie F22B's didn't come with an EGR lift sensor. Truth be told I don't really know what an EGR lift sensor is and does. Maybe I'm being ignorant here not knowing what an EGR lift sensor does but is there a way that you could just buy an EGR lift sensor install it make it work and hook it up to the ECU?

    Comments on that idea anyone?
    Bruce
     
  8. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    A solenoid opens and closes the valve. The sensor probably just tells the ecu when it is open or closed. The EGR is a bitch, because of the check engine light, but it is not necessary to make the engine run right. I would concentrate on the ELD, and go from there. A good Helms manual would help you a lot. You need to test your circuits, and they have excellent troubleshooting sections.

    My buddies EGR was not working properly, but it didn't throw a code(94 Accord). This was because the Valve was working fine, hence sending the proper signal to the ECU. The problem was carbon deposit underneath. Plugging the hose and not using the EGR worked just fine. Just don't leave anything open. Later on, you can wire one up.

    All Honda Parts are expensive, even here. I'd order from Ebay or another source before paying that much for a mount.
     
  9. sleepn_accord

    sleepn_accord Senior Member

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    I have never heard of an ELD going out.

    My bet is the wire is loose.

    Regarding the egr valve issue...you have to wire up three wires to get it to work.

    I would recommend just pulling the CEL bulb.

    I believe the EGR just needs a sensor wire ("on/off" signal from ecu), constant positive and a negative.

    It shouldn't require more than a three extra wires.
    1) ground to something on the block
    2) on/off signal to ecu
    3) shared constant 12v.
     
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