Euro R H22a Swap Is Done, But...

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

V

Vexamus

Member
My Euro R H22A runs like a Harley right now, literally, it's only firing two cylinders(180 degrees apart) so it essentially is a V twin, and with running only a straight header, it sounds just like a really really well tuned harley... pretty juicy too..

So...

To sum things up..

My fuel fittings hold for a while then start to leak.

the euro R distributor didn't have rpm signal wired up inside telling me that the Accord Euro R uses a digital ignition system and that is where the ecu get's it's rpm signal... that's fixed, now I'll have the proper fuel curve and most importantly, VTEC.

Still throwing a code, but I don't know which yet, I gotta do the diagnostic later today to see which sensor is fucked...

I'm pretty sure I have the distributor wired up correctly and I confirmed my injector wiring(the entire harness is custom).

the fuel curves are correct because even on two cylinders, that engines got some grunt. I did almost 90 last night on the way home....

I don't have powersteering anymore, I've never had a car without powersteering. I like this better, however, parking on 18's is a pain in the ass.

I still have yet to figure out how the ecu is reacting to the lack of the evap system, EGR, FIA and VTEC oil pressure switch. Right now, I'm just trying to get all the cylinders firing.

Great thing is, that after only 5 days of work(8 hour/day), we turned the key and it fired right up, very first time, no sputtering at all. Like butta!!!!

Later today, i'll post pics of some of my custom fabrication and work. And I'll begin my writeup for the swap details, this isn't anything like a regular H22A4 swap, much much more complicated. In addition to wiring issues as well... We'll see..
 
I take it you used the injector resistor? And why wasnt it firing on 2 cyls?
how was it more difficult then a h22 swap? I got my wires sent away to be spliced, but what else is different
dan
 
ok, I need input really really bad, this is soooo frustrating...

I pulled the codes, I popped three, two were really easy fixes. the third, the CYP sensor... it's wired up correctly, shows 350ohms resistance on that sensor.

I've checked and double checked, both resistance at the ECU harness, the shock tower harness and the distributor harness, all the same....

I've checked my wiring three times, it's perfect. I'm still popping a 9 and it's firing on two cylinders.

Can someone please tell me what the specs are on that sensor on a 2001 h22a? (USDM or JDM)
 
Ok, here's what I think. After having slept on it for a bit and thought about it, it's like this....

I think since the engine is OBDIIb and the ECU is OBDI the CYP sensor has difference tolerances than what the ECU is expecting. I postulate the CYP sensor's range is 350-700 ohms(like on the F22B2). I'm betting the ECU is expecting 700-1500 ohms(like on the F22B1), so what I was hoping to do was just toss on a 400ohm resister in series with the CYP sensor, bringing the bottom measurment to 750ohms, withing the expected working range of the OBDI sensor.

Now the thing is, I'm not sure if the ECU measures the position of cyl 1 via absolute value(i.e. 700ohm = bottom, 1500 ohm=top) or relative value(i.e. minimum resistance=top, maximum = bottom, v.v.) assuming of course that the sensor will still be able to function within range.

This sensor, located in the oil pump housing on OBDII engines and in the distributor housing in OBDI engines determines the location of the 1st cylinder in order to determine ignition and injection timing. I do no believe this sensor in any way affects the fuel curve once timing has been established per cycle. That's controled by the O2, MAP, TP, and BARO sensors. This afternoon I'll try the resister trick and see what happens. If that doesn't work, I'll tear the distributor off the F22 and see if that sensor can come out and if it will fit in the place where it is on the H22A. Wish me luck. :)
 
Shit didn't work, sensors are too differnet, so I figured what the hell, just solve all your problems and get an OBDI distributor with external coil.

Problem solved, hauls balls, we're happy now. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top