Exedy Thin Cerametallic Clutch Problem

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soundbwoy611

Junior Member
My mechanic installed this Exedy Clutch Model No. 08902A on my 99 civic hatch and it has never been right. The first 10 mins from cold, it shifts fine, but after that when shifting hard it doesn't engage right away (and my foot isn't riding the clutch). Does anyone have an idea why, is it just this clutch or what? Can you recommend another performance clutch for basic mods (the small ones) for the street? A hard pedal doesn't make a difference to me. :dry:
 
I've run Exedy clutches in three cars that I've had in the past two years, and NEVER had a problem...I've got an Exedy on the way for my current project, as a matter of fact.

I'm not really sure what could be causing your problem, but the first thing I would consider is a misinstallation...take it back to your mechanic and have him pull the tranny and check it out. A clutch isn't THAT complicated, and there's not a whole lot (that I can think of, at least) that could and/or would cause what you're describing...

Like I said, try taking it back to your mechanic before you do anything else.
 
Is the clutch pressure soft when cold and hard when warmed up?

Could be a worn out clutch hose, linking to slave cylinder hardline.
 
Nah, that shouldn't do it. A crappy hose will leak and cause a complete loss of pressure, making the clutch useless.

I can do a clutch in four hours by myself of a couple with soem help, it's not hard at all.

I've also run Exedy in every Honda I've had and never had that problem.

The only reason I can think of is improper break-in and you glazed the disc or something or flywheel needs to be resurfaced. The "mechanical" parts shouldn't be having problems after they warmed up. The friction surfaces seem to be your cause.

My .02 since I'm not there or looking at it.
 
It may be improper break-in if that would cause that to happen, but i replaced the flywheel also at the same time to a clutchmasters flywheel. Should I replace the clutc?. Is it pretty much finished or is there something I can do about it?
 
If you didn't "break it in" and it's not engaging properly then you're gonna need a new disc, at minimum.

Since it's comming apart regardless to solve the problem, you'll find out the exact cause and know exactly what you need to replace.

I honestly, would pull it apart first to figure out what the problem actually is and replace what needs to be replaced.

DID you break the clutch in, or beat on it as soon as it was put it?
 
I probably didn't break it in but the performance shop that sold it to me didn't tell me it was a thin disc (doesn't make a difference) but I want something for the street not the track that will actually last. My OEM clutch lasted 6.5 years with over 350 000km driving as a courier. I just want something that will last now with some grab.
 
A stock like exedy has a little more bite and will last pretty long.

Oh and that was your problem, you didn't break it in.
 
Thanks for the help, I'll take it to a honda specialist this time though and cut my losses b/c my mechanic doesn't want to take it apart again for free, so might as well get it done right. :wink:
 
If you didn't break it in, he shouldn't take it apart and fix it for free...


It's your fault for not breaking it in. You've gotta break in ANY clutch, even an OEM one.
 
Quoted post[/post]]
If you didn't break it in, he shouldn't take it apart and fix it for free...


It's your fault for not breaking it in. You've gotta break in ANY clutch, even an OEM one.


He doesn't know that... he could've incorrectly installed it (the clutch) or the main rear seal which I didn't add was leaking but he said it was the oil pan gasket, so I'm not too sure if it's me or him. And I felt that same feeling from the first time that I drove it with the new clutch as soon after 10 mins... not clutch disc. So my next question is what's the difference between wearing out and glazing?
 
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
If you didn't break it in, he shouldn't take it apart and fix it for free...


It's your fault for not breaking it in. You've gotta break in ANY clutch, even an OEM one.


He doesn't know that... he could've incorrectly installed it (the clutch) or the main rear seal which I didn't add was leaking but he said it was the oil pan gasket, so I'm not too sure if it's me or him.


This is you getting a blank stare:

:blink:
 
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
If you didn't break it in, he shouldn't take it apart and fix it for free...


It's your fault for not breaking it in. You've gotta break in ANY clutch, even an OEM one.


He doesn't know that... he could've incorrectly installed it (the clutch) or the main rear seal which I didn't add was leaking but he said it was the oil pan gasket, so I'm not too sure if it's me or him.


This is you getting a blank stare:

:blink:
:blink: :withstupid:
 
Quoted post[/post]]
Quoted post[/post]]
If you didn't break it in, he shouldn't take it apart and fix it for free...


It's your fault for not breaking it in. You've gotta break in ANY clutch, even an OEM one.


He doesn't know that... he could've incorrectly installed it (the clutch) or the main rear seal which I didn't add was leaking but he said it was the oil pan gasket, so I'm not too sure if it's me or him. And I felt that same feeling from the first time that I drove it with the new clutch as soon after 10 mins... not clutch disc. So my next question is what's the difference between wearing out and glazing?


Assuming an oil pan gasket is an honest mistake and and easy one to make, after he pulled it apart he figured out exactly what was leaking.

How are you going to say it's not the disc? You stated the symptoms and I gave you the answer. Since you didn't break in the clutch, there a real good chance glazed it.

A worn clutch disc loses the friction surface to the point where it's unable to engage.

Worn disc, this one doesn't look TOO bad, I've defenitly seen worse
WornD.jpg


New disc
Rivet1a.jpg


A glazed disc attributes a "glazed" friction surface, due to improper break in, which will not allow it to engage properly, no matter how much surface material is left.
 
i destroyed an OEM exedy clutch disc in 4K miles. ripped the spline part from the disc itself.

you see, it only had FOUR rivets holding the inner disc to the outer disc.

mind you this was in my bone stock 1.5L mirage, 2 YEARS ago.


i have since replaced it with an ACT 2600 that is still wicked sweet after 46k miles of hard shifting.
 
I also stated that it felt like not engaging that right after installation, after he and I drove the car. My mechanic felt the same feeling after he installed it and drove it and just said it was the "performance" clutch, so I am questioning him. I know you don't have to be a rocket scientist to install a clutch but I'm saying he may have installed something incorrectly, I don't know if oil is leaking in there from one of the seals he also changed or if the clutch is glazed but he doesn't want to take the tranny down again.
 
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