Discussion in 'Accord' started by Team Hypnotic, Oct 5, 2009.
I'm getting a great deal on a F22 B1 and i have a F22 A1. Will it be a straight drop in?
Yes. You will need the ECU, engine harness, and if it is an automatic the TCU possibly. THe ECU is at the feet of the passenger, you'll pull the carpet back and there is a plate held down with 10mm bolts. The ECU is obviously the larger one.
You can take the engine out and leave the transmission in if you remove the crank pulley on the old engine. I highly recommend doing it that way.
DO NOT BE AN IDIOT AND NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL SEALS. While you've got the engine on the ground, replace the rear main, and do the timing belt, and replace the cam seal, balance shaft seal, and the crankshaft seal. Also replace the front seal of the transmission, you slide the toque converter out to get to it. Have someone who's done seals before help you if you have not done them before. Do the timing belt, balance shaft belt, and water pump too.If the engine is up around 200k, do the two pulleys as well. Taking my advice will make sure you don't develop any oil leaks you cannot easily access, and also prevent the timing belt from breaking. You also have VERY easy access to the three heater hoses while you're changing the engine, I'd highly recommend replacing those (and the thermostat) while you are doing it.
You've talking a few hundred dollars, for sure, but ask yourself if you think you don't have $300 right now, will you have $2000 later to pay someone else to do all that, or like 40 hours of free time to just dive in and fix it? I think that swap is an awesome one to do, I've got an F22B1 96 and I really like the SOHC VTEC for the gas mileage/performance ratio you get. Good luck with it, keep us posted, and feel free to ask any questions
Use the A6's drivers side bracket/mount combo, the A6's transmission and all its mounts. The matching A6 transmission's axles. Youll need a 94-95 accord EX vtec ecu or chipped Obd1 ecu. Swap pins A6 & A11 at the ECU. A6 is an O2 wire and A11 is an EGR wire. These are opposite on the 5th gen. Pin D6 is the vtec pressure switch and A4 is the vtec solenoid. You need to use your stock engine harness on the B1 and run those vtec wires or use the 94-95 harness if your B1 is Obd1.
I figured it would drop right in. Thanks Guys!! im getting it for $400 with only 30,000 miles on the motor. Ima do a crower cam with Skunk cam gears. I plan on runnig 20 pounds pretty soon on a T4
20 PSI? I'm not a turbo guy, somebody help me out here, you may want to take your internals into consideration...
Btw, cam gearS? lol
Agreed. If you want this thing to last any decent amount of time I'd consider upgrading some of your internal parts...
I'am im doing cp pistons and push rods. torgue my head bolts and do rocker arms. its a project and this new motor is FLAWLESS!!!!
That is good to know because i am to doing the same swap to my cb7 and i've noticed that i had to change the motor mounts off my old motor and use the ones on the 96 ex accord aka f22 - 2.2 vtec which didn't come with any so i've order them from an local part store and will post when they come in.
well it turns out that i am not able to do the swap because the motor mounts does not line up so im stuck with a built f22b motor any suggestion on how i can make this work. I'm open to any suggestion right now
this sucks. we got the motor in but are now having issues with wiring due to the fact everything doesn't plug in ahhhhhhhhhhhh
any suggestion would be helpful
on how to wire it up
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