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F22B2 Idles shitty when warmed up

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by tab, Sep 4, 2003.

  1. tab

    tab Super Moderator

    Likes Received:
    Jan 10, 2003
    Aberdeen, Washington State
    Hello everyone. I did a swap over the weekend for my bad luck buddy. He bought a car without letting me see it. Some ricer did a few mods and beat the shit out of this thing. He drove it twice, then it started knocking.

    So here's the deal. 1994 Honda Accord LX. Knocks. Chipped ECU(don't know how). Basically stock engine. Against my advice, my buddy buys an identical F22B2(not a bad engine, but hey, we're already swapping, spend a few bucks.) So I do the swap, no major unexpected problems. I changed the timing belts, fuel filter, distributor.

    I start it for the first time, runs great. Success. I'm in the middle of re-wiring some ricers headlight wiring(I wish I had pics of this shit), all the while I am letting the car idle. I must have let this thing idle for 45 minutes, with no problems. I wanted it to idle for a long time so that I could check for leaks and shit. I decide to swing the car around to get more overhead light above the engine bay. As soon as I back it out of the garage, it starts to stutter. By the time I turn around and start pulling back in, it dies. I start it, it won't idle. It runs fine if you keep your foot on the gas, but that's not acceptable. I changed the spark plugs in case one had fouled.

    What could go wrong to make it not idle once completely warm?

    As of today, I started it again. Once it is kinda warm, the idle kicks down to 700 rpms, and runs fine for about 3-4 minutes, then the idle starts to die off, and gets to the point that you have to keep your foot on the gas. What do you think?

    IAC, IAB, MAP? I have a complete second engine that knocks right here. I just wanted suggestions before I tinker.

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