caboose
USDM to the bone
Honestly I doubt yo would notice a difference. If I were you I would just run it until it dies. The motor will be the last thing to go on that car, as long as you do good maintenance.
F23A1 To Same Engine Swap Questions.
- Thread starter brintonwhalen
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Honestly I doubt yo would notice a difference. If I were you I would just run it until it dies. The motor will be the last thing to go on that car, as long as you do good maintenance.
91accordwithwork
kid that everyone loves!
ok ok very good point im jkustr trying to think ahead.... and plus if i wana boost it within a few years ill want a lower millage motor right?
91accordwithwork
kid that everyone loves!
yah good point no need for boost maybe when im way older......
but yah do u think its worth getting a "new clutch kit" casue my clutch does grind a bit herre and there and i dont seem to get all the rmps i should without almost dropin g a rod.......
but yah do u think its worth getting a "new clutch kit" casue my clutch does grind a bit herre and there and i dont seem to get all the rmps i should without almost dropin g a rod.......
91accordwithwork
kid that everyone loves!
no like 3.5 or 4 K rmp it acts weird idk do u think a clutch kit would do any good like a stage 2 one or anything??? sry im just trying to think ahead
budda
Member
that sounds like an engine problem. Nothing to do with the clutch. I'm failing to see how you made that connection. Check your sensors; tps, map, etc.
I wouldn't waste any money on a stage 2 clutch kit untill you at least pass 160 horsepower. Seeing as though your car puts down about 125 Its just not needed.
I wouldn't waste any money on a stage 2 clutch kit untill you at least pass 160 horsepower. Seeing as though your car puts down about 125 Its just not needed.
budda
Member
just the fact you don't know you have to tune it tells me you need to study more.
Unless it was professionally built, tested, and broke in, you Always have to tune. Heck even then you should double check.
That goes for the op too. Make sure your engine is tuned and making good compression. And while you have your motor out, if anything looks tired or worn (ie motor mounts, clutch) you might as well replace it now.
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91accordwithwork
kid that everyone loves!
ok thanks budda and thanks for being patient with me
have a goood night k
have a goood night k
brintonwhalen
Yes, that is my real name
Day 1 update
Well i spent a good deal of time waiting for the tow guy to get my car to me first and second the engine took forever to get here
. Upon arrival i was a little disappointed.
Here it is on the truck:
pretty sad isnt it here are some more photos...
Overall the engine is dirty and rusted and has mineral deposits all over it : (. Looks like ill be taking a lot more off my old engine and putting it back on this "newer" engine. apparently it has 15k-30k on though - i pray the internals are sound
oh and the TPS is busted out- and it has those horrible rivets on them lol. luckily someone had a good post on that I read today.
Any ideas on what may be needed to be put on from the old engine and be installed on this?
prognosis from what i see are ( Flexplate/crank pulley, TPS sensor, more to come i'm sure)... but onto the work i finished today.
It was a little late in the day by the time i started but ill post a few pics of what i got...
the car in question
engine in question
Out comes the battery and the battery mount
Fuel pressure is relieved
unpluged the Computer Wires
Stock intake
Distributor and the wires
buddy thought it was funny to text and remove my fusebox at the same time, anyways got that off to see what the main harness was connected to- and we got that out as well.
STEPS 1-10 DONE:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
Didnt get as much done as i wanted today was a little dissappointed in the care of the engine, but oh well - i will prevail - day two will be up tomorrow.
Well i spent a good deal of time waiting for the tow guy to get my car to me first and second the engine took forever to get here
. Upon arrival i was a little disappointed. Here it is on the truck:
pretty sad isnt it
here are some more photos...
Overall the engine is dirty and rusted and has mineral deposits all over it : (. Looks like ill be taking a lot more off my old engine and putting it back on this "newer" engine. apparently it has 15k-30k on though - i pray the internals are sound
oh and the TPS is busted out- and it has those horrible rivets on them lol. luckily someone had a good post on that I read today
.Any ideas on what may be needed to be put on from the old engine and be installed on this?
prognosis from what i see are ( Flexplate/crank pulley, TPS sensor, more to come i'm sure)... but onto the work i finished today.
It was a little late in the day by the time i started but ill post a few pics of what i got...
the car in question
engine in question
Out comes the battery and the battery mount
Fuel pressure is relieved
unpluged the Computer Wires
Stock intake
Distributor and the wires
buddy thought it was funny to text and remove my fusebox at the same time, anyways got that off to see what the main harness was connected to- and we got that out as well.
STEPS 1-10 DONE:
1. Secure the hood as open as possible.
2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then positive terminal. Remove the battery.
3. Remove the strut brace. (for cars that have one)
4. Disconnect the battery cables from the under-hood fuse/relay box and battery positive terminal.
5. Remove the battery and battery base.
6. Disconnect the connectors from the ECM/PCM.
7. Disconnect the main wire harness connector.
8. Remove the air intake duct and air cleaner housing. Remove the resonator and intake air duct. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector. (OBD1 motors and older will not have the IAT sensor.
9. Disconnect the engine wire harness connector on the left side of the engine compartment.
10. Relieve fuel pressure.
Didnt get as much done as i wanted today was a little dissappointed in the care of the engine, but oh well - i will prevail
- day two will be up tomorrow. 
91accordwithwork
kid that everyone loves!
ncie work excited to c how it goes!
brintonwhalen
Yes, that is my real name
Hrmm i cant seem to find that post about Dremel-ing out those rivets on the TPS again. Does anyone have a link?
should I try something like C-L-R on the salt and mineral deposits on the engine?
should I try something like C-L-R on the salt and mineral deposits on the engine?
Last edited:
brintonwhalen
Yes, that is my real name
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
WD-40 or the eualvilant.
caboose
USDM to the bone
I think that he's just talking about cleaning the dirt off of the motor, not removing rusty bolts. I would just clean it with water and some soap. If it's really greasy or something, get some engine degreaser.
brintonwhalen
Yes, that is my real name
DAY 2 Update!
I'm excited i managed to get the old engine out which was today's goal- here are some of the highlights.
Getting those EVAP hoses and well as misc. vacuum lines and electrical connectors.
Power steering lines undone- got that A/C compressor off too.
Working on the spindle nut...
Got the the suspension components loosened, and pulled out that driveshaft- good thing i had a pry bar handy.
and i got it out - tackled the shift linkage while i was down there- that bitch pin wasn't all too bad .
with everything unhooked- we got the cherry picker and supported the engine- and i tackled the mounts.
with everything unbolted- we raised it slightly to do our final checks- and began to take er out .
SUCCESS!
and the hole left behind - so dirty.
Tomorrow will be cleaning the engine bay and prepping the new motor and swapping out a lot of parts.
CANT WAIT degreaser- and simple green here I come lol
I'm excited i managed to get the old engine out which was today's goal
- here are some of the highlights.
Getting those EVAP hoses and well as misc. vacuum lines and electrical connectors.
Power steering lines undone- got that A/C compressor off too.
Working on the spindle nut...
Got the the suspension components loosened, and pulled out that driveshaft- good thing i had a pry bar handy.
and i got it out
- tackled the shift linkage while i was down there- that bitch pin wasn't all too bad .
with everything unhooked- we got the cherry picker and supported the engine- and i tackled the mounts.
with everything unbolted- we raised it slightly to do our final checks- and began to take er out .
SUCCESS!
and the hole left behind - so dirty.
Tomorrow will be cleaning the engine bay and prepping the new motor and swapping out a lot of parts.
CANT WAIT
degreaser- and simple green here I come lol
Last edited:
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
I use it on my engine bay to keep it from rusting, didnt know if thats what he ws refering to or not.
And Brinton, thats a lot of red Xs (your pics arent showing up)
brintonwhalen
Yes, that is my real name
darn i hate imageshack, ill fix em : /
efhondakid
My name is Byron.
Photobucket FTW.
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